HOW TO: Fix your leaky windshield (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter firetruck41
- Start date
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Grench
SILVER Star
That likely isn't a windshield. More likely it is one of the forward sunroof drains. The sunroof has 4 drains.
not sure but no leaks yet....(fingers crossed)
- Thread starter
- #24
Cool. Glad to see someone else benefit from this cheap fix. Mine is still holding strong after a long, wet fall/winter.
Grench,
I have the same problem - floorboard getting wet, but you really notice it around the grab bar. Did you have this problem and can you describe your fix for these drains?
Thanks.
I have the same problem - floorboard getting wet, but you really notice it around the grab bar. Did you have this problem and can you describe your fix for these drains?
Thanks.
Search sunroof and drain, and you should find a few threads on it. Sounds like they are clogged if you are getting wet at the grab bar. There are small drain holes in the front and rear of the sunroof opening. They empty out in the rockers and drain out through some small holes. You can test it by pouring water in the hole and it should drain out almost immediately through the rocker panels. If not, the drain should be cleaned out with a solid strand copper wire or get creative.
Thanks. I found the same info with a search and was coming back to post that, but I appreciate your help. I'm going to give a quick try tonight - I have to head out for 10 days in the morning and will take a long look at it when I get back.
- Thread starter
- #28
A mudder brought this thread to my attention, so I thought I would bring it back to the top, seeing how we will be getting rain and snow again, pretty soon. My windshield seal is still holding up, with no leaks at all, still bone dry, and lookin' good.
This repair has held up on mine as well. The floor stays dry and I don't have to run the AC to clear foggy windows anymore.
Recently went the rout of new windshield seal and urethane, in my opinion don’t waste your time or money with the seal, just clean under the lip on the glass and metal sides with thinner then caulk with a low viscosity urethane not the kind that is like tar, you will never get the stuff to come out using a caulking gun even if it is heated.
I had to do my entire seal lifting and pasting the urethane with a screwdriver…
PS taping where you don’t want the urethane helps the cleanup along with thinner.
I had to do my entire seal lifting and pasting the urethane with a screwdriver…
PS taping where you don’t want the urethane helps the cleanup along with thinner.
Cant find the one pictured in the OP
I've been to two HD's and neither has had the black. They had tan and white I think.
From my Marine experience though - there is another option which is 3M 5200 Polyurethane adhesive/sealant. This stuff is AGGRESSIVE though. I have torn fiberglass off of transoms while changing engines because the previous tech put way way too much on the clamps.
Here is a link - www.westmarine.com
Let me know what you think.
I've been to two HD's and neither has had the black. They had tan and white I think.
From my Marine experience though - there is another option which is 3M 5200 Polyurethane adhesive/sealant. This stuff is AGGRESSIVE though. I have torn fiberglass off of transoms while changing engines because the previous tech put way way too much on the clamps.
Here is a link - www.westmarine.com
Let me know what you think.
I picked up the locktite version polyurethane roofing sealant at Home Depot. So far everything seems good after a couple storms in the last month.
I just installed 3M 5200 Black all around the glass side of my seal. It is unfortunately colder outside than the label recommends for curing, so I will have to see how my seal holds up.
Firetruck41's method was right on the money. Putting tape around the glass was a HUGE time-saver.
I did read on the label of the 5200 that using alcohol will prevent curing - be sure you check your labels prior to using some solvents for cleaning/prepping.
I'll let you guys know how mine turns out.
Firetruck41's method was right on the money. Putting tape around the glass was a HUGE time-saver.
I did read on the label of the 5200 that using alcohol will prevent curing - be sure you check your labels prior to using some solvents for cleaning/prepping.
I'll let you guys know how mine turns out.
- Thread starter
- #35
I hope you have success, after the first several years of leaky windshield corners, it has been so nice to be leak free now for 2+ years. It was never too bad that it soaked all the front carpet or anything, but it was always damp during fall/winter/spring and had a slight "damp" smell. Bone dry now since I first did this fix. 
Guys, please take care of these leaks quickly when you detect them. I had damage to my Tundra that cost me $$ due to rust. I had Safetylite replace my windshield...ended up with rot around the window frame a couple years later. I also had a leaky windshield play havoc with the alarm electrics on another rig.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Firetruck, how many tubes did you use? Heading over to HD now.
- Thread starter
- #38
NLXTACY said:
Not even one whole tube.
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Going to try this next week when we get a little break in the rain since I finally tracked down the water leak today. Did you do both sides of the exterior seal? Like squeezing it in from the windshield side and body side?
- Thread starter
- #40
I had planned to do both sides eventually, if needed, but after I did the seal/glass interface, I had no more leakage, so I left the body/seal interface alone. The FSM shows the adhesive on both sides of the seal, so that would be the more "thorough" approach... If you are going to do that side, make sure you tape the body around the seal to ease cleanup, and help keep things neat.
