how to adjust tps on a 96?

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Read the FSM, it explains the procedure.

cheers,
george.
 
96TPS.webp

96TPS.webp
 
Most likely you will have to remove the throttle body to adjust. You need a vacuum pump or a strap to compress the plunger under the throttle. I just adjusted mine.
Put a fine point Sharpy mark on the TPS and throttle body before you adjust. This way you know how much you adjusted (wasn't much on mine). I didn't replace the steel gasket as it was only a year old but you should replace it as it could cause a vacuum leak.

I didn't remove the TPS as I was not sure what was under it but I did have something under mine as it crunched when I turned it.
Others might be able to advise weather to or not to remove and clean, if necessary.
 
notthejeepnomo said:
don, thanks.
george, thanks kindof.
Click to expand...

You really need to get a copy of the FSM - download it if you don't want to spring for the $$$ for the paper version.

I have replaced my TPS (failed) and it fixed up an idle speed issue. The FSM describes the steps to adjust, easy enough to do. There's no hidden springs waiting to shoot out if you do remove it at any point.

Edit: For the search impaired:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8136518&postcount=203

cheers,
george.
 
Last edited:
delancy,
did that ever get ironed out? The last time i looked at the downloadable fsm thread i read through 43pages or so only to find out it wasn't working at the time.
 
I can't figure out how to adjust it. Im getting an rpm surge from 1k to 2k every second and im getting a p0120 code. the only reason I am messing with it is because I thought I was removing the IAC valve. I used the feeler gauge and all which I was able to fit in between the throttle stop and throttle arm. I put my multimeter on but wasn't getting anywhere near the numbers stated in the FSM. The TPS was fine I just think it's out of adjustment. I'm doing something wrong it seems
 
To adjust it all you are doing is setting the point at which it has or has not got continuity as per the FSM page up top of this thread. Don't worry about the resistance measurements - that's just to test the TPS is functional.

It is easy to set, just put the feeler gauge in there, apply some vacuum and rotate the TPS as per the manual, i.e. it should be right at the point where it has continuity/doesn't have continuity.

cheers,
george.
 
I cannot seem to locate how much vacuum needs to be applied when testing and setting the TPS. Any one know how much vacuum to apply?
 
I mean I can do that but was unsure. I can move it slightly or a lot with my mouth so figured I should try and figure out how much vacuum to apply.
 
george_tlc said:
You really need to get a copy of the FSM - download it if you don't want to spring for the $$$ for the paper version.

I have replaced my TPS (failed) and it fixed up an idle speed issue. The FSM describes the steps to adjust, easy enough to do. There's no hidden springs waiting to shoot out if you do remove it at any point.

Edit: For the search impaired:

Validating browser… - https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8136518&postcount=203

cheers,
george.
Click to expand...
I just bought the hard copy for when alldata or identifix is lacking, it pays for it self in one small repair, or difficult to find specs or procedures, torque specs, ohm specs you name it. It’s the most important tool some times. And you never know one EMP and you got no internet or a bootleg FSM.
 
MissahPapaJ said:
I just bought the hard copy for when alldata or identifix is lacking, it pays for it self in one small repair, or difficult to find specs or procedures, torque specs, ohm specs you name it. It’s the most important tool some times. And you never know one EMP and you got no internet or a bootleg FSM.
Click to expand...
I've got a pretty efficient printer, so I was printing it a chapter at a time as needed. I've got the whole thing in hard copy now and it's... pretty substantial! I bound individual chapters and I grab whatever I need for a job.
 
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