HOW-TO: 5th Gen 4Runner Brakes on an 80
- Thread starter jcardona1
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that what I probably need for my car.. its cheaper to install a ebooster than make new mods in the axle. I already have 80 series booster and t100 MC .. I have brembo 6 piston caliper.. and big rotor from a nissan armada 350 mm, its brake ok for 40 inch tires but need more to brake a 400 hp 2 ton truck.
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Are your wheel weights stick-on (rear barrel) or hammer-on (front face) to clear this brake setup on the stock 16s?
Jose’s BBK is legit. Easy install. Took slightly longer than a normal brake pad and rotor change. Can’t wait to test the stopping power
Pardon my heinous ignorance but is there any reason this setup wouldn't work on my '92 FJ80?
I see the knuckle PNs are different in later years but I imagine that is related to the inclusion of ABS..?
I see the knuckle PNs are different in later years but I imagine that is related to the inclusion of ABS..?
Being a tight fit, would the brakes heat up more and take longer to cool down with less room between them and the rim?
Just saw this, so I will put it here. Landtank has a brake upgrade kit with T-100 stuff etc.
80 series Brake upgrade
This brake upgrade utilizes Wilwood HD brake rotors, larger 100 series calipers and a larger Master Cylinder all while still allowing the use of the factory 16" alloy rims. The kit includes: 2- Rotor hats Socket for installing and torquing mounting bolts Master cylinder - the option for either...
landtankproducts.com
I am considering trying an iBooster and saw your post from a search.
The stock booster is actually worse if you remove the non-working area of the center bore. Assuming 2" diameter of the center bore, it brings down the force to 780.6 lbs of assist.
(4 x 4 - 2 x 2) x 3.14 = 37.68 in^2
(4.5 x 4.5 - 2 x 2) x 3.14 = 51.025 in^2
8.8 psi x 88.705 in^2 = 780.6 lbs of assist.
However, Ali SC3 installed and removed a gen 1 iBooster for performance reasons.
Almost everything I've read says stick to the 2nd gen. I'm not sure what the issue is, but I've been curious about the iBooster for a while and every swap I see people happy with, they're using a 2nd gen.
I did some more research on the ibooster as well (35s do have me wanting better for the street, even with DOT GF rated pads), a bit more info from the guys over on the openinverter forum using a Yaris gen2 ibooster.
For maximum responsiveness there is a "brake pedal stroke sensor" that plugs into the main plug, which preemptively sees what motion your pedal is doing before you apply force through the unit. Without it from user Miata25: "ATM I am not entirely happy with the brake feel. The brake is stiff for a splitt second, then starts to go down to breaking point - I thought there should be more generic feel to the pedal. The breaking itself is sensational"
Honestly though, my dad's 05 GM pickup had an same initial hard pedal if you slammed the brakes, and that was a standard vacuum based system.
Could never figure out what caused it or if that's a GM characteristic, as everything else has been Japanese vehicles with nice soft pedals..
Another user who had the whole setup from one car said it worked perfectly, while 'Miata25' tried ordering just the sensor and wiring it into his setup, but still had the initial stiffness.
So it sounds like it's best to get everything in one go from a single car, to make sure it'll all be programmed to work together.
There is an emergency power unit (89680-K0010), so in the event of total power failure you still have power brakes.
Right now my priority is suspension upgrades, so I'm not doing anything with the ibooster myself for a good while unfortunately.
For maximum responsiveness there is a "brake pedal stroke sensor" that plugs into the main plug, which preemptively sees what motion your pedal is doing before you apply force through the unit. Without it from user Miata25: "ATM I am not entirely happy with the brake feel. The brake is stiff for a splitt second, then starts to go down to breaking point - I thought there should be more generic feel to the pedal. The breaking itself is sensational"
Honestly though, my dad's 05 GM pickup had an same initial hard pedal if you slammed the brakes, and that was a standard vacuum based system.
Could never figure out what caused it or if that's a GM characteristic, as everything else has been Japanese vehicles with nice soft pedals..
Another user who had the whole setup from one car said it worked perfectly, while 'Miata25' tried ordering just the sensor and wiring it into his setup, but still had the initial stiffness.
So it sounds like it's best to get everything in one go from a single car, to make sure it'll all be programmed to work together.
There is an emergency power unit (89680-K0010), so in the event of total power failure you still have power brakes.
Right now my priority is suspension upgrades, so I'm not doing anything with the ibooster myself for a good while unfortunately.
Good information here, but I was wondering if someone can clarify some confusion I have. @jcardona1 bolt on setup is sweet and will be option 2 if I can’t figure out the issue I’m having. I want a slip on 5G4R rotor for ease of changing rotor later. According to 80.proof from instagram, user stated the length of the LC80 hub is good but the overall mounting face is too deep and too wide. I have no issue machining the OD of the LC80 hub smaller for the 5G4R rotor to slip over, but I’m not understanding the “too deep” statement. Does this mean a spacer is needed between the hub and rotor to push the rotor outwards to align with the caliper? If so, anyone know what size spacer is needed? Or an I’m not understanding this correctly at all?
Has anyone done this modification using the LC80 hub to utilize the 5G4R rotor as a slip on setup? I preferred a free spinning hub versus Trail Gear stud less hub as 80.proof posted.
Hoping someone has a solution.
@jcardona1 from his post #1 as quoted “First step is figuring out the caliper mounting. Now, the 4Runner caliper will bolt up directly to the 80 knuckles no problem. But because the rotor has a deeper hat and we're not doing any machining of the hub, the rotor will sit DEEPER over the knuckle compared to the 80 rotor. This then means the caliper needs to be spaced BACK. Based on what I heard from other that have done this, the caliper needs to be spaced back about 10mm.”
Has anyone done this modification using the LC80 hub to utilize the 5G4R rotor as a slip on setup? I preferred a free spinning hub versus Trail Gear stud less hub as 80.proof posted.
Hoping someone has a solution.
@jcardona1 from his post #1 as quoted “First step is figuring out the caliper mounting. Now, the 4Runner caliper will bolt up directly to the 80 knuckles no problem. But because the rotor has a deeper hat and we're not doing any machining of the hub, the rotor will sit DEEPER over the knuckle compared to the 80 rotor. This then means the caliper needs to be spaced BACK. Based on what I heard from other that have done this, the caliper needs to be spaced back about 10mm.”
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