How long to replace head gasket? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 4, 2009
Threads
115
Messages
3,421
Location
New Smyrna Beach FL
I have gone through a lot of the head gasket replacement threads but did not see my answer. My son's cruiser just started blowing sweet smelling steam, we think it literally just started so not likely driven much at all with this condition. Oil looks real good and no bubbles in the radiator which is still full. But clearly we have a leak into a cylinder.

How long will it take to do the job, any estimates. We do not plan on sending the head out, it runs great now and before this started. We will replace the valve stem seals. We will replace the water pump, I think it was starting to make some noise, it did not overheat. It did overheat over a year ago when the AC belt let loose and took out the others withit and that little pain in the @ss hose under the intake blew.

Is there any good write up on the process? I have seen where there is a DVD, but we want to start tearing into this today, I cannot believe I could not find a write up on the process.
 
I think someone said 20hrs was the job time est they had.

But last time it was talked was when these were depreciating below the $15K mark.
 
I think someone said 20hrs was the job time est they had.

But last time it was talked was when these were depreciating below the $15K mark.
I spent probably 40 to 50 hours on mine. But I had no familiarity with anything and I wasnt in a rush. Would spend a few hours here and there
 
I spent probably 40 to 50 hours on mine. But I had no familiarity with anything and I wasnt in a rush. Would spend a few hours here and there

Same - I remember when the hrs/quote was posted my thought was "good thing I'm not a shop mechanic".

20hrs seems like a Robbie # to me (heck, prob <2 days for him), us jokers doing a 1st/2nd HG are more in that 30+ hr range.
 
Sorry to hear about the bad news man, if you are trying to get a labor quote I can look it up for you later but it really doesn't matter how long it will take you as long you do it right on the first time. I have never pulled a cylinder head off an 80 or any Landcruiser just yet but have been a mechanic for the last 28 years I worked for a dealership for 22 years and now a in fleet, my advice would be get the best parts for the job and replace everything that needs to be replaced during the job and always get the cylinder head pressure tested and don't cut corners coz it will bite you in the ash later. Invest in a manual to get the job done right the first time and use the proper tools (i.e Torque wrench).
 
I haven't done mine yet, but have done a few other Toyota head gasket repairs. Seems like it is pretty straight forward. The one tip people mention is to just unbolt the lower intake manifold, then set aside...don't mess with trying to take it out of the vehicle (harness routing, sensors, etc). Other is to just ziptie the timing chain to the cam sproket, no need to deal with timing cover, or anything like that.
 
I've read here that some people cut the lower intake manifold if they want to pull it but I let it stay when I did my head gasket in February this year. Just had a buddy and an old ratty FSM. Took a solid 20hrs I'm guessing. At 272k, the cylinder walls looked amazing still. Deleted the EGR while I was at it and put on a set of Genie headers too. I'd start spraying exhaust bolts down with rust killer now if you're anticipating doing it yourself.
 
This all depends on if you have all to tools required, how dirty the motor is, which while you’re in the parts get replaced, and any gotchas. It’s a full day to take it apart and another to put it back together. Plus add valve work, cleaning, and head prep.

All the plastic harness plugs have been cooking for 20+ years, be gentle. The injector harness plugs are very fragile.
 
took me about 1 week to rebuild the head cleaned and machined the head grinded the valve seats replaced the stem seals this is a must when you replace the head gasket.
 
There is a ton of info on engine disassembly/assembly archived in Mud.

If you have any such experience at all, you can do this job referencing only the fsm.

How many miles are on the engine?
 
I would do the valve seals if it has 100,000 + miles on it. It MAY BE corroded or warped, so don't refuse a head job if needed. All mine neede was seals and a shine on the valves n seats. Took shop 3 days to finish as a walk in. Very busy, very old established shop cost me about $500. Very happy with results!
 
2 days if ya know what your doing 20 hrs or so is the quote from robbie when I worked for him. You could pull it and have the block cleaned in 8 hr day. Second day bolt all back
 
@cjgoode what do you mean you don't plan on sending the head out ? If you pull it you would be foolish not to take it to a machinist for inspection. Unless it's a super budget repair it will be worth it.

It is a super budget repair, will make the final decision once we pull the head and see where and why it blew the gasket. I have done head gaskets on many vehicles and boats, only sent the head out once and never had a problem with any. Its a slight gamble but what is the likely hood it warped to the point of not being able to seal properly with a new head gasket? But like I said, final decision on that will be once we can pull the head and inspect the failure and the valves.
 
I would do the valve seals if it has 100,000 + miles on it. It MAY BE corroded or warped, so don't refuse a head job if needed. All mine neede was seals and a shine on the valves n seats. Took shop 3 days to finish as a walk in. Very busy, very old established shop cost me about $500. Very happy with results!

The kit we ordered has the valve seals, that is a must because it does burn oil. Not going to do a ring job, has good compression, but valve seals, yes those will be done while apart. We use to re seat the valves with valve grinding compound and a drill and vacuum hose. but I am hoping for a quick inspection clean the mating surfaces and have the head back on in an hour or less. We live near the ocean and everything rusts here real real quick, over night and you would he shocked how quickly metal will rust.

So base don responses looks like one day to take apart to the point where the head will come off, if all looks good, head gets new seals and then goes back on and gets torqued, then the next day put all the other crap back on.
 
Its a slight gamble but what is the likely hood it warped to the point of not being able to seal properly with a new head gasket?

Good question. It is a very long head though. I have always assumed the reason most people end up having them shaved down is due to the difficulty of keeping it flat across such a long surface. Even though there is a proper un-torqueing procedure i'm guessing they are getting deflected enough during that process that it causes the warp. Like you said though, for a budget job, throw a precision straight edge on it and see where its at.
 
The kit we ordered has the valve seals, that is a must because it does burn oil. Not going to do a ring job, has good compression, but valve seals, yes those will be done while apart. We use to re seat the valves with valve grinding compound and a drill and vacuum hose. but I am hoping for a quick inspection clean the mating surfaces and have the head back on in an hour or less. We live near the ocean and everything rusts here real real quick, over night and you would he shocked how quickly metal will rust.

So base don responses looks like one day to take apart to the point where the head will come off, if all looks good, head gets new seals and then goes back on and gets torqued, then the next day put all the other crap back on.
Cheaping out on the gasket will give you heart burn later. I had a felpro HG blow in 14k miles. Did you get a Toyota gasket kit? It’s highly recommended due to the improvements they have made to the HG over the years.

I haven’t attained guru status around here yet but I have read more on Mud than I care to admit and what I have learned about engine work on the 1fz, HG in particular, is - don’t be cheap and quick. This ain’t your old V8 with short, iron heads.
 
Last edited:
Well, please keep us in the loop. This is shaping up to be a good story.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom