Do you have pics. My frame is pretty rough too. I want to see what is repairable. I was looking at buying a new aqualu frame.
I'm in GP too.
Hofflarr's Restoration of Little Devil
- Thread starter HoffLarr
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Do you have pics. My frame is pretty rough too. I want to see what is repairable. I was looking at buying a new aqualu frame.
I'm in GP too.
73fj
Tho at sumbitch in ayer!
Well I don't want to jam up Hoffs thread, but if you want you can see it in person maybe...
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In regards to your comment on the frame and : "powder coating it later'' A lot of corrosion can be put on halt for the time being if you save up some old oil and get a brush to out to a gravel road and slather the frame with a mixture of oil and silicone. In the east this is a regular practice at many garages can spray the oil on the frame and complete underside including any factory holes in the body.
This will buy you some time in the mean time while you enjoy the drive !
Cheers
This will buy you some time in the mean time while you enjoy the drive !
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #85
Ok, So I see it has been a long time since I posted, longer than I thought.
Well, last February our local OCC club went on an ice fishing trip 5 hours North of here and the 45 performed quite well. The weatherman predicted temps in the mid minus teens, Celsius, and I thought it would be a good chance to take the Little Devil out for its first real trip. As usual, the weatherman was wrong! The temps were much colder, more in the -30's, but to my surprise, the ol' 45 started up pretty good. The first morning it was around -30, and she started right away, the next morning it was more in the range of -32 and it took a bit more to start, but she did. However, I couldn't get her to idle without the choke on. So, for the whole way home whenever we came to a stop I had to make sure I pulled the choke out in time so she wouldn't stall.
So that's kinda where I left it since then. Debating on whether or not I should attempt to rebuild the carb or not and the other day I finally decided to do it. I had tried to adjust the carb and I got it to idle without the choke, but it did not run well. So I decided to take it apart and clean it and order a rebuild kit. I had watched Pinheads videos before and wish I would have watched them once again before I took the carb apart, because of the jets being different. I took the carb apart and then watched the videos again and realized I should have noted which jet came from where, but I think I got right using the info that Pinhead gave in the videos. So I didn't really rebuild the carb as much as I cleaned it because I never did order a rebuild kit. As I took it apart I realized that the parts were good, but that I had a clog somewhere so I just dipped the parts and put the carb back together. Works like a charm now and it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.
Here's a before pic; I don't have an after pic right now, I'll have to add one later.
Well, last February our local OCC club went on an ice fishing trip 5 hours North of here and the 45 performed quite well. The weatherman predicted temps in the mid minus teens, Celsius, and I thought it would be a good chance to take the Little Devil out for its first real trip. As usual, the weatherman was wrong! The temps were much colder, more in the -30's, but to my surprise, the ol' 45 started up pretty good. The first morning it was around -30, and she started right away, the next morning it was more in the range of -32 and it took a bit more to start, but she did. However, I couldn't get her to idle without the choke on. So, for the whole way home whenever we came to a stop I had to make sure I pulled the choke out in time so she wouldn't stall.
So that's kinda where I left it since then. Debating on whether or not I should attempt to rebuild the carb or not and the other day I finally decided to do it. I had tried to adjust the carb and I got it to idle without the choke, but it did not run well. So I decided to take it apart and clean it and order a rebuild kit. I had watched Pinheads videos before and wish I would have watched them once again before I took the carb apart, because of the jets being different. I took the carb apart and then watched the videos again and realized I should have noted which jet came from where, but I think I got right using the info that Pinhead gave in the videos. So I didn't really rebuild the carb as much as I cleaned it because I never did order a rebuild kit. As I took it apart I realized that the parts were good, but that I had a clog somewhere so I just dipped the parts and put the carb back together. Works like a charm now and it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.
Here's a before pic; I don't have an after pic right now, I'll have to add one later.
- Thread starter
- #86
Since the weather is also FINALLY feeling like summer (ironic, because Saturday was the official first day of summer) I decided that I would not let another summer go by without taking the top off so that is what I did this weekend.
Top came off pretty easy, no surprises there except I did break off one bolt that was holding the roof on. After I took the top off and drove around for a while I found out a very important fact about the 45's. There is a ton more legroom with the top off. I was driving along and wasn't sure if the seat was all the way back and when I went to check, it went back a lot! It is usually pretty cramped, but since the seat can go back further with the top off, it is so much more pleasurable to drive.
A couple of poser pics.
Top came off pretty easy, no surprises there except I did break off one bolt that was holding the roof on. After I took the top off and drove around for a while I found out a very important fact about the 45's. There is a ton more legroom with the top off. I was driving along and wasn't sure if the seat was all the way back and when I went to check, it went back a lot! It is usually pretty cramped, but since the seat can go back further with the top off, it is so much more pleasurable to drive.
A couple of poser pics.
That's looking great Larry.
I agree with the more leg room when the top is off. Yeah, the seat goes back further. With the top on, I put the seat all the way back with the back down and the put up the back. Gives another 1/2 inch or so.
A bunch of us from Calgary are heading up to the Cardinal River / Ruby Lake (between Nordegg and Edson) for the long weekend if your interested in wheeling that thing.
I agree with the more leg room when the top is off. Yeah, the seat goes back further. With the top on, I put the seat all the way back with the back down and the put up the back. Gives another 1/2 inch or so.
A bunch of us from Calgary are heading up to the Cardinal River / Ruby Lake (between Nordegg and Edson) for the long weekend if your interested in wheeling that thing.
- Thread starter
- #88
And now the half doors. Last summer I found a guy selling some parts in Edmonton so I bought a set of doors off of him. I think I paid $150 for them and they are in pretty good shape. They are from a '74, but he had them on a later model and I like the earlier style so I bought them.
When I got the doors, I never realized that some '74's had door panels. I thought that these were some PO hack and promptly ripped them off since they had been outside for many years. I have since learned that they are factory panels, and guess that a PO just recovered them. At any rate, I still have the metal trim pieces to hold the panels in place.
But anyway, since they are the older style, the tops can be detached from the bottoms, so that is what I have done for now. I had an extra mirror so I drilled a few holes and bolted it on. Should have paid a bit more attention, because the first time I ended up having the holes on some internal members and it did not work out so I had to drill another set. No big deal since there is still lots of work to do on the doors. Just a few more holes to fill when the time comes. Might get a set of mirrors that mount to the body to make it easier to switch between doors.
Not sure how to finish them at this point. I'd like them to have some curve, but that make is complicated. Just using angles makes it simpler to do, but I don't like the look as much, so for now they will stay as they are. I also want the insides to look good too and I think that will be hard since there are so many raised and indented sections.
The striker on my truck did not work with the latch from the earlier doors. I found though that the latch from the door did line up to where the striker was on the truck, so I decided to make a couple for the new doors. The first one I made, worked, but it was a lot of work to make and the bottom bolt got in the way so I could only use the upper bolt. The second one worked better but was also a bit of a pain getting the holes in the right place and the bolts were also getting in the way a bit. You can see in the photo below how I had to elongate the holes in order to get them aligned correctly.
So of course AFTER I have both strikers made, and not really happy with them, I come up with a brilliant idea. I figure I could take one of my strikers to the parts yard and see if I can find a Yota that has the same hole alignment and then I would at least have the holes in the right place and then I could use the flush-mount screws as well. Got some strikers off of a Yota minivan and they line up with what I have on the 45. The result is much better. Just cut off the original striker so that all I had left was the plate and then welded on a piece of steel and ground it down to have a a bit of a radius to guide the latch. Voila! Much better.
Left is what I started with, right is what it ended up being.
And since I had the doors off...
I think this is the best way to drive. I just have to get a body mounted mirror.
When I got the doors, I never realized that some '74's had door panels. I thought that these were some PO hack and promptly ripped them off since they had been outside for many years. I have since learned that they are factory panels, and guess that a PO just recovered them. At any rate, I still have the metal trim pieces to hold the panels in place.
But anyway, since they are the older style, the tops can be detached from the bottoms, so that is what I have done for now. I had an extra mirror so I drilled a few holes and bolted it on. Should have paid a bit more attention, because the first time I ended up having the holes on some internal members and it did not work out so I had to drill another set. No big deal since there is still lots of work to do on the doors. Just a few more holes to fill when the time comes. Might get a set of mirrors that mount to the body to make it easier to switch between doors.
Not sure how to finish them at this point. I'd like them to have some curve, but that make is complicated. Just using angles makes it simpler to do, but I don't like the look as much, so for now they will stay as they are. I also want the insides to look good too and I think that will be hard since there are so many raised and indented sections.
The striker on my truck did not work with the latch from the earlier doors. I found though that the latch from the door did line up to where the striker was on the truck, so I decided to make a couple for the new doors. The first one I made, worked, but it was a lot of work to make and the bottom bolt got in the way so I could only use the upper bolt. The second one worked better but was also a bit of a pain getting the holes in the right place and the bolts were also getting in the way a bit. You can see in the photo below how I had to elongate the holes in order to get them aligned correctly.
So of course AFTER I have both strikers made, and not really happy with them, I come up with a brilliant idea. I figure I could take one of my strikers to the parts yard and see if I can find a Yota that has the same hole alignment and then I would at least have the holes in the right place and then I could use the flush-mount screws as well. Got some strikers off of a Yota minivan and they line up with what I have on the 45. The result is much better. Just cut off the original striker so that all I had left was the plate and then welded on a piece of steel and ground it down to have a a bit of a radius to guide the latch. Voila! Much better.
Left is what I started with, right is what it ended up being.
And since I had the doors off...
I think this is the best way to drive. I just have to get a body mounted mirror.
- Thread starter
- #89
Thanks Kevin. I've been thinking about that trip as I missed it last year when our club went. It looks like a beautiful place. Not sure if anyone from Edmonton is going, but I will check it out.
73fj
Tho at sumbitch in ayer!
well now I know where the seat belts attach when the top is off, my rack is long gone, plans are for a new home made rack, hopefully this summer......and a V8 too!
- Thread starter
- #91
OK, so I decided to take the devil on a little trip last weekend to a place called Ruby Falls. I'd heard of the place before and didn't think it would be that difficult, but an interesting little trip. It was all going well until I hit a hole near our destination and then my clutch failed on me. Got towed all the way back on the trails to semi-civilization where I was picked up by one of our local members with his trailers, kudos to him and now I am stuck trying to figure out what my problem is hoping I don't have to pull the clutch, but at this point pretty much knowing I will.
You can find more info about the trip in this thread, starting at post 40.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/summer-schedule.801253/page-2
You can find more info about the trip in this thread, starting at post 40.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/summer-schedule.801253/page-2
- Thread starter
- #92
If you read the last post you know that I have had a clutch issue after taking the little devil on a wheeling trip. I found that the issue was that the pressure plate was bunged up with debris and was not allowing the fingers to spring back into position. I have since cleaned out the debris and the fingers now are back in position. At our last meeting Potlach4805 was great enough to give me a new clutch disc and pressure plate so I will be putting that on when I get the whole thing back together.
But since I had the transmission and transfer out of the truck I decided there was no time like the present to install a PTO gear in the TC so I can finally install the PTO winch I bought last year. I wanted to get an NOS gear listed on Ebay, but the seller would not ship to Canada so I ended up getting one from phishtaco and I am glad I did because it is in great shape and was a lot cheaper. It doesn't even look used.
I just got the gear in the mail today and I installed it this evening. I tried finding posts on what it takes to only install the PTO gear but couldn't find any. It is actually quite easy to do though. All you have to do is pull the transfer case off of the transmission and the PTO spacer will fall right out, put in the PTO gear and reattach the transfer case. A bit of a pain to hold the PTO gear in place and line it up with the transmission shaft, but it actually went pretty well.
Before with PTO spacer
After, with PTO gear
PTO gearbox installed. Works very smoothly.
And now this bad boy can go on.
But since I had the transmission and transfer out of the truck I decided there was no time like the present to install a PTO gear in the TC so I can finally install the PTO winch I bought last year. I wanted to get an NOS gear listed on Ebay, but the seller would not ship to Canada so I ended up getting one from phishtaco and I am glad I did because it is in great shape and was a lot cheaper. It doesn't even look used.
I just got the gear in the mail today and I installed it this evening. I tried finding posts on what it takes to only install the PTO gear but couldn't find any. It is actually quite easy to do though. All you have to do is pull the transfer case off of the transmission and the PTO spacer will fall right out, put in the PTO gear and reattach the transfer case. A bit of a pain to hold the PTO gear in place and line it up with the transmission shaft, but it actually went pretty well.
Before with PTO spacer
After, with PTO gear
PTO gearbox installed. Works very smoothly.
And now this bad boy can go on.
- Thread starter
- #93
Major update.
Finally go the tranny back in the cruiser and have a drivable vehicle. It took me forever to install my transmission. I must admit that I had a pretty Redneck setup to do it with and the vehicle was not in the best location either. I had planned on buying a cheap transmission jack at Princess Auto before I took out the transmission, but when I went there they did not have any left, so I decided to just place a piece of plywood on my jack and use 2x4's to block up the tranny/transfer combo. This worked really well to get the it out, but to get it back in is a little more difficult. For one thing, when you are putting the transmission on with the body of the vehicle still attached, it does not go in level. The amount of space available is just too tight, the transmission has to come in at an angle and then slowly lift the back up as the shaft goes in further. This was not t a problem coming out because the shaft just fell as it was pulled out. But going in... I had to jimmy rig another jack on wheels that could lift the front up while I pushed the tranny forward.
The first time I attempted the installation, last weekend, I had a really hard time getting the tranny to go in. I tried and tried and gave myself time to relax and found some bolts to help me line up the tranny, I got it to within a half inch, but that was difficult to get to and I couldn't get it to go further. I had replaced the pilot bearing because when I tried to turn the old one with my finger it would not. However, when I took it out, it turned freely. Anyway, I did not realize nor did I think it necessary to pre-fit the bearing to the shaft; I just installed it so after doing much research on Mud I was thinking that my pilot bearing must be too tight on the shaft.
After spending as much time at my computer as in the garage, I decided I would try again this weekend by removing the tranny and making sure all was aligned and trying again. I removed the tranny, checked the alignment of the clutch plate and re-aligned it by eye, put a little grease on the shaft and decided I would not remove the pilot bearing as I did not believe that it was the problem. I set up my jacks again and the tranny went in very easy until the last 1/4" I was on the alignment pegs and just could not get it to go any further. Remember, I had a Redneck set up so it was not too easy to roll the whole contraption. I had the bolts in place to make sure I was aligned and I was. I debated using the bolts to tighten it up but everything on Mud said not to. I came in and did more research, basically looking for something to tell me it was ok to do this and I did find some reassurance and so I decided the next morning I would use the bolts to tighten it up. I took it very slowly, tightening each bolt about a 1/3 turn before moving to another bolt, and making sure the distance was staying even. I did not have to torque the bolts hard, just finger pressure on a wrench so I did not feel that I was forcing anything.
Alas, it worked and when I started the little devil up she ran! Put the drivers seat back in and took it for a little test drive with the hump off and I had a bit of noise when the clutch was depressed, but that went away when I adjusted the clutch slave ram out about as far as it would go. kind of freaky driving without the hump though.
Finally go the tranny back in the cruiser and have a drivable vehicle. It took me forever to install my transmission. I must admit that I had a pretty Redneck setup to do it with and the vehicle was not in the best location either. I had planned on buying a cheap transmission jack at Princess Auto before I took out the transmission, but when I went there they did not have any left, so I decided to just place a piece of plywood on my jack and use 2x4's to block up the tranny/transfer combo. This worked really well to get the it out, but to get it back in is a little more difficult. For one thing, when you are putting the transmission on with the body of the vehicle still attached, it does not go in level. The amount of space available is just too tight, the transmission has to come in at an angle and then slowly lift the back up as the shaft goes in further. This was not t a problem coming out because the shaft just fell as it was pulled out. But going in... I had to jimmy rig another jack on wheels that could lift the front up while I pushed the tranny forward.
The first time I attempted the installation, last weekend, I had a really hard time getting the tranny to go in. I tried and tried and gave myself time to relax and found some bolts to help me line up the tranny, I got it to within a half inch, but that was difficult to get to and I couldn't get it to go further. I had replaced the pilot bearing because when I tried to turn the old one with my finger it would not. However, when I took it out, it turned freely. Anyway, I did not realize nor did I think it necessary to pre-fit the bearing to the shaft; I just installed it so after doing much research on Mud I was thinking that my pilot bearing must be too tight on the shaft.
After spending as much time at my computer as in the garage, I decided I would try again this weekend by removing the tranny and making sure all was aligned and trying again. I removed the tranny, checked the alignment of the clutch plate and re-aligned it by eye, put a little grease on the shaft and decided I would not remove the pilot bearing as I did not believe that it was the problem. I set up my jacks again and the tranny went in very easy until the last 1/4" I was on the alignment pegs and just could not get it to go any further. Remember, I had a Redneck set up so it was not too easy to roll the whole contraption. I had the bolts in place to make sure I was aligned and I was. I debated using the bolts to tighten it up but everything on Mud said not to. I came in and did more research, basically looking for something to tell me it was ok to do this and I did find some reassurance and so I decided the next morning I would use the bolts to tighten it up. I took it very slowly, tightening each bolt about a 1/3 turn before moving to another bolt, and making sure the distance was staying even. I did not have to torque the bolts hard, just finger pressure on a wrench so I did not feel that I was forcing anything.
Alas, it worked and when I started the little devil up she ran! Put the drivers seat back in and took it for a little test drive with the hump off and I had a bit of noise when the clutch was depressed, but that went away when I adjusted the clutch slave ram out about as far as it would go. kind of freaky driving without the hump though.
- Thread starter
- #95
As part of the cool down from installing the transmission, I was also working on the PTO winch. I had been spraying the screws that hold on the removable part of the splash guard on and off for the past week hoping to get them off without buggering up the heads. Not sure why Toyota decided to put screws in that location as they are bound to rust. But I got them out and installed the winch on the bumper and got the pillow block in place. Once I got my transmission/transfer in place and running, I decided the next thing was to install the last shaft of the PTO winch . I went and got it and put it up to the pillow block joint and realized that something was wrong, the shaft was going to be too short! Now, when I bought this setup I was told it came off of a 1977 FJ40 and "IT HAS BEEN ON THE LAND CRUISER SINCE IT WAS NEW" So I was of the thinking that this winch was just going to bolt up to my cruiser as it is a '77 as well. Guess not! The shaft that I have is 5" too short. I need 50 1/2" total length and this shaft is 45 1/2" long. From what I have found here, shafts for 3-speed transmissions are about 3" shorter than for 4-speeds, so I am not sure if this came from a 3-speed setup and there is 2" of play left for adjustment or ... To me the shaft does not look modified, but maybe it has been.
Major disappointment, but I decide to press on. I figure I can install all but this shaft and deal with it later. I decide to cut my tranny hump and install the shifter linkage. If you have ever looked into installing a PTO winch you will find that there is not much information about how to locate this hole and how big it should be. I decided that the best way to figure it out was to use my mat as a guide. I had no issues cutting the hump because if it was wrong, then more metal could be welded in, no harm done. The mat on the other hand... So I decide to use carbon paper to trace out the location using the transmission shift lever and transfer shift lever holes to guide me.
I traced the outline using a piece of wood to transfer the pressure through the mat and then also made a cardboard cutout of the same area so I could use it to place the hole precisely. I also used the cardboard cutout to make a smaller, oval shape that would become the actual hole.
I don't have a whole lot of metalworking tools so I used a jigsaw to cut the hole and then used a file to smooth it out.
It looks good, but will it line up with the shift lever?
Major disappointment, but I decide to press on. I figure I can install all but this shaft and deal with it later. I decide to cut my tranny hump and install the shifter linkage. If you have ever looked into installing a PTO winch you will find that there is not much information about how to locate this hole and how big it should be. I decided that the best way to figure it out was to use my mat as a guide. I had no issues cutting the hump because if it was wrong, then more metal could be welded in, no harm done. The mat on the other hand... So I decide to use carbon paper to trace out the location using the transmission shift lever and transfer shift lever holes to guide me.
I traced the outline using a piece of wood to transfer the pressure through the mat and then also made a cardboard cutout of the same area so I could use it to place the hole precisely. I also used the cardboard cutout to make a smaller, oval shape that would become the actual hole.
I don't have a whole lot of metalworking tools so I used a jigsaw to cut the hole and then used a file to smooth it out.
It looks good, but will it line up with the shift lever?
- Thread starter
- #96
Simple answer, No!
I guess it kind of fits. The lever is in the neutral position in this photo and it is hitting the back of my hole. This box has both the forward and reverse gears so the shifter has to be able to move in both directions. I go inside and start doing more research and find there are different types of shift levers and that the ones from 3-speeds may be bent to accommodate the heater.
Well, you can see that this shifter has a large bend, probably pulls the shifter back 2" from the actual pivot point. I'm starting to think this did not come off of a '77 from the factory. and I'm not very happy about it because I paid for a complete setup so that I wouldn't run into these problems. the clutch mechanism was also broken when I got it and when I asked about that the seller said he hadn't noticed, and he is supposed to be in the business of Land Cruisers.
So right now I have removed the shifter and left the linkage to the transfer in the hopes that it will not be too difficult to install the shifter from below. I am left with the option the modify the lever I have or search out the correct one. At this point I just want it to work and cutting an inch and a half out of the lever sounds good to me, but then it also seems wrong, if there is somebody else out there looking for this type of lever.
The shaft issue is also the same, do I lengthen it and get it over with or look for one that is the proper length? Ughhh.
Well, here is a pic of a sweet looking PTO winch.
I guess it kind of fits. The lever is in the neutral position in this photo and it is hitting the back of my hole. This box has both the forward and reverse gears so the shifter has to be able to move in both directions. I go inside and start doing more research and find there are different types of shift levers and that the ones from 3-speeds may be bent to accommodate the heater.
Well, you can see that this shifter has a large bend, probably pulls the shifter back 2" from the actual pivot point. I'm starting to think this did not come off of a '77 from the factory. and I'm not very happy about it because I paid for a complete setup so that I wouldn't run into these problems. the clutch mechanism was also broken when I got it and when I asked about that the seller said he hadn't noticed, and he is supposed to be in the business of Land Cruisers.
So right now I have removed the shifter and left the linkage to the transfer in the hopes that it will not be too difficult to install the shifter from below. I am left with the option the modify the lever I have or search out the correct one. At this point I just want it to work and cutting an inch and a half out of the lever sounds good to me, but then it also seems wrong, if there is somebody else out there looking for this type of lever.
The shaft issue is also the same, do I lengthen it and get it over with or look for one that is the proper length? Ughhh.
Well, here is a pic of a sweet looking PTO winch.
- Thread starter
- #97
Thanks for the help. Hope I didn't ruin your long weekend.
- Thread starter
- #99
Hey, it's not you who always pulls me out, it's Jason! 
Anyway, got half the problem solved.
When in doubt...make your own!
Could have been a bit longer but it was a bitch to get in even with the short length it was. Had to really pry on the hump to get enough space to get the lever in. Seems to work though.
Anyway, got half the problem solved.
When in doubt...make your own!
Could have been a bit longer but it was a bitch to get in even with the short length it was. Had to really pry on the hump to get enough space to get the lever in. Seems to work though.
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I seem to remember a u-joint union mounted in the front cross frame : below rad drivers side, I could be wrong cause it was a long time ago ???
this may account for the 5- 6 inches you are saying you are short.
Can anyone chime in with pics ?
ps. love the topless look !
this may account for the 5- 6 inches you are saying you are short.
Can anyone chime in with pics ?
ps. love the topless look !