HJ61 12HT Build Up - The Grub (1 Viewer)

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Today I purchased new Munro 4x4 shockies with the extra travel, these ones are 600mm or especially for Callahan 23.6 inches

Took it for a drive and it's improved the ride immensely .

Also put the steering wheel on straight, it's a psychological thing

Spudman

I, The steering wheel drives me crazy too. Can't wait to put my new shocks on. Rig is looking good. What is the turbo timer, I'm not familiar with that.

J

 

[Spudman]

I, The steering wheel drives me crazy too. Can't wait to put my new shocks on. Rig is looking good. What is the turbo timer, I'm not familiar with that.

J

Hi J

I adjusted the screw on the steering box and there was a heap of improvement, it's actually now enjoyable to drive, but I'll still wait and fit the 3 degree castor wedges when they arrive.

I've fitted a mongoose M60S alarm with has a built in turbo timer, it's supposed to allow the engine to continue running for 1 minute after you shut it down to cool the turbo down.

But I can't seem to get it to work right, the alarm works perfectly but the timer won't kick in. They never provide enough instructions when you buy these alarms, so no turbo timer, I'll just sit in it for a minute after I stop and then lock it.

Spudman

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Hi J

I adjusted the screw on the steering box and there was a heap of improvement, it's actually now enjoyable to drive, but I'll still wait and fit the 3 degree castor wedges when they arrive.

I've fitted a mongoose M60S alarm with has a built in turbo timer, it's supposed to allow the engine to continue running for 1 minute after you shut it down to cool the turbo down.

But I can't seem to get it to work right, the alarm works perfectly but the timer won't kick in. They never provide enough instructions when you buy these alarms, so no turbo timer, I'll just sit in it for a minute after I stop and then lock it.

Spudman

Gotcha.. Here's a link with a guy that has an issue with the way a timer works as well. Don't know if it would be any help or not. I research a lot of things in hopes to stubble across a solution or get me to a new starting point.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...8C8SzcnOaxfR8Sw&bvm=bv.61725948,d.aWc&cad=rja


J

 

[Crick60]

Hey spud I'm struggling to think how the alarm would have any issue with the turbo timer. Doesn't the timer shut down the solenoid not the ignition? If that's the case the alarm shouldn't care because as far as it's concerned the rig is off. Unless it has volt sense in which case I can understand the change in voltage would set it off.

I struck out with my run at the 12ht. It was on pickles salvage today as a burnt out 86' hj61, the whole cab was burnt into a melted mess, it couldn't start and the panels were pretty much stuffed so all you could really salvage was the 12ht, h55 and diffs/axles and it wasn't listed as turbo so I was hoping for a low activity auction with a low final price......WRONG!

30 seconds later....$3600!!!! FARK!

 

[Crick60]

What's the story with adjusting the screw on the steering gear?
Did you have to remove the sector shaft cover and o-ring?

 

[Spudman]

Gotcha.. Here's a link with a guy that has an issue with the way a timer works as well. Don't know if it would be any help or not. I research a lot of things in hopes to stubble across a solution or get me to a new starting point.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...8C8SzcnOaxfR8Sw&bvm=bv.61725948,d.aWc&cad=rja


J

Hey J

Thanks for the link, I'm not actually sure what alarm they are talking about, but the situation is similar except I don't have an e brake wire.

 

[Spudman]

Hey spud I'm struggling to think how the alarm would have any issue with the turbo timer. Doesn't the timer shut down the solenoid not the ignition? If that's the case the alarm shouldn't care because as far as it's concerned the rig is off. Unless it has volt sense in which case I can understand the change in voltage would set it off.

I struck out with my run at the 12ht. It was on pickles salvage today as a burnt out 86' hj61, the whole cab was burnt into a melted mess, it couldn't start and the panels were pretty much stuffed so all you could really salvage was the 12ht, h55 and diffs/axles and it wasn't listed as turbo so I was hoping for a low activity auction with a low final price......WRONG!

30 seconds later....$3600!!!! FARK!

Hey mate

I'll try and explain. I purchased this alarm as I wanted the turbo timer, I wired it up as per the limited instructions, everything worked except the timer, now all wires are black so you only get one real shot at this, so I thought I must have got some wire in the wrong place, so I changed the wires around and still the same, so I did a search and found some info on a New Zealand website, you have to activate the turbo timer by pressing 2 buttons on the remote. So now I've activated that but I don't know which wires were originally where. I will give it another go.

Bloody hell $3600 and you don't even know if it will start, I still have a 12HT and H55 gearbox at my mates workshop, a bloke is supposed to be buying it for $5000, but I think he's struggling to come up with the money, this one runs perfectly.

What's the story with adjusting the screw on the steering gear?
Did you have to remove the sector shaft cover and o-ring?

There is a 17mm nut on top of the steering box, you loosen this and then adjust the flat screw driver screw clockwise, I did mine three quarter turn and made so much difference. I think there is normally a rubber cover that sits over the top of the steering box, just lift that up and you'll see it.

No you don't have to remove anything.

 

[Crick60]

Ahhh I see. I play with black wires all day so I know your frustration but luckily I have drawings and open ended contacts and very rarely sealed black boxes.
Good luck mate, all I can suggest is trouble shooting using your multimeter to see what wire does what and try and tag and eliminate them as you go.

$5k is about the going rate for a good runner with gearbox I can't imagine you'd have much drama getting that to the right buyer. I don't know what I'm doing from here, I've also got a 80 series 1HD-T GXL on the line for $4.5k all mech A1 with bad paint damage but no rust (usual 80 clear coat). I really don't want to turbo the 2h, I know I'm just going to kill it.

I'll have to have a go at taking some of the boat out of the steering then, I've rebuilt the steering gear before but the adjustment was done with the top cap off and there was an o-ring underneath it and I remember measuring the preload on the shaft, I'll have to investigate further.

 

[Crick60]

Wait is the adjustment on the box or the gear where the pitman drops off?

 

[Spudman]

Ahhh I see. I play with black wires all day so I know your frustration but luckily I have drawings and open ended contacts and very rarely sealed black boxes.
Good luck mate, all I can suggest is trouble shooting using your multimeter to see what wire does what and try and tag and eliminate them as you go.

$5k is about the going rate for a good runner with gearbox I can't imagine you'd have much drama getting that to the right buyer. I don't know what I'm doing from here, I've also got a 80 series 1HD-T GXL on the line for $4.5k all mech A1 with bad paint damage but no rust (usual 80 clear coat). I really don't want to turbo the 2h, I know I'm just going to kill it.

I'll have to have a go at taking some of the boat out of the steering then, I've rebuilt the steering gear before but the adjustment was done with the top cap off and there was an o-ring underneath it and I remember measuring the preload on the shaft, I'll have to investigate further.

I just had another look at the PDF document, if you have a look on page 19 it explains how to wire the immobiliser wires for circuit #2, which I did correctly, it then says to connect one of those wires to a 12 volt i.e. Battery, but when I did this I couldn't turn it off.

http://www.mongoose.co.nz/images/manuals/m60seriesturbo2011.pdf

Wait is the adjustment on the box or the gear where the pitman drops off?

All I know is that the 17mm nut is directly underneath the air cleaner box, hope that helps.

 

[Crick60]

Trying comprehend the circuit function for the immobiliser/turbo timer I think if you were to bell across the IMD1 2 wires you should get a bell while the car is running and no bell when off then the IMD2 2 wires should be the same function except after a predetermined period of time (turbo timer).

Also just to cover the bases make sure you've removed the J link which if I recall correct was J12? Not sure because I'm on the iphone.

As for turning off the ignition and not turning the vehicle off all I can say it that is the intended design as it should time out then turn off that is unless it's never turning off in which case there is a wiring issue somewhere.
If you can recall a standard turbo timer they have a override button to kill the engine before the timer completes, this function does not seem to be built in to this unit (although I can imagine why they didn't use double tap lock or something) but you can place a button or switch across the the immobiliser #2 circuit but that kind of defeats the purpose of the immobiliser.
This is only 10 minutes of thinking so I reckon I could probably come up with a work around for timer override given a bit more time to read through the manual and circuits.

I'm sure you can connect a standard timer to the mechanical/vacuum solenoid for the engine shut off.....

 

[Spudman]

Thanks mate

I'm going to have another look at it this weekend, as I've worked out I may have put 12 volts to the ignition sense wire instead of the immobiliser wire, if so it will then work correctly

 

[Spudman]

Check out a couple pics of my new dash emblem

I purchased it from a fellow mudder Hitit66, excellent quality and looks awesome

Spudman

 

[Gengis]

Just so that the sweet hitcher hiker knows exactly what they are riding in!!

 

[Spudman]

Just so that the sweet hitcher hiker knows exactly what they are riding in!!

Ah ah! It's actually so they know they're in a limited edition Landcruiser

 

[Spudman]

So the last day or so I've been working where to connect my boost gauge and pyro gauge, so now that I've got all that Sussed this is where I'm going to mount my gauges

I just have to wait for the bracket to arrive it's coming from somewhere in Europe, can't believe I couldn't find anything locally to hold to gauges that will look stock

Spudman

 

[Crick60]

If only it were this one spud!

Can't wait to see how the gauges turn out

 

[Spudman]

Yes mate that would be nice, the bracket will take a couple of weeks, but I've still got a few other things on the go to keep me busy

 

[Crick60]

I just noticed your cd/tuner!
Hilux or 100 series or something?

 

[Spudman]

It's the original one out of my 200 series, perfect fit and direct plug and play