Build His 80 and Her 80 tandem build thread

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Broski said:
What are you doing about the hole ?
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After talking with a few people, the hole should not affect anything as long as the tube is smooth for the shift lever since case oil flows through and around the shift tube to the rear extension housing. @Cruisers and Co advised to file down the inside of the tube and ensure it is smooth and run it.
 
Looking good...one note, when you put everything back together with the PT kit, be sure to check your shim measurements on the floating bearing race for the center spool. when you do the gears only, it should not change, but with the PT spool, I had to make significant changes to my shim pack thickness.

I was doing mine under the truck with just the rear half of the case off, and it was hard to push everything together and hold it tight while measuring this, so I just ordered a handful of all shim sizes and did a little trial and error to get the right specs. If you are working on a bench, this should be a lot easier to measure correctly right off. I wasn't able to find all of the thicknesses in one place, so I went through my local dealer and they sourced from 3-4 locations around the country and had them in within a couple of days for no shipping fees. The little bit of extra cost for the actual shims to order through them was less than paying shipping from 3-4 sources by far.
 
CrabCake said:
Looking good...one note, when you put everything back together with the PT kit, be sure to check your shim measurements on the floating bearing race for the center spool. when you do the gears only, it should not change, but with the PT spool, I had to make significant changes to my shim pack thickness.

I was doing mine under the truck with just the rear half of the case off, and it was hard to push everything together and hold it tight while measuring this, so I just ordered a handful of all shim sizes and did a little trial and error to get the right specs. If you are working on a bench, this should be a lot easier to measure correctly right off. I wasn't able to find all of the thicknesses in one place, so I went through my local dealer and they sourced from 3-4 locations around the country and had them in within a couple of days for no shipping fees. The little bit of extra cost for the actual shims to order through them was less than paying shipping from 3-4 sources by far.
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Great advice! I will pay attention to this for sure!
 
Time to catch the tread up a little bit. I finished painting that t-case, and got it fully assembled with 3.1:1 low range and the 10% high range under-drive. It wears tedious but not overly difficult as long as you stay organized with your parts and bolts.

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Now that the transfer case is finished, it is time to move on to getting the head off and to the machine shop. Contrary to popular advice, this truck was at 240,000 miles and as far as i can tell, it is the original head gasket. I am building this as a dedicated off-road truck, so I want it to be solid so changing the head gasket, timing chain, and anything else that I can think of while I am in here.


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This is the first head i have taken off a Land Cruiser since I was a kid and helped my dad take the head off our 1974 FJ40. I am no expert, so do these valves look normal?

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It was time to refresh the sealant and gaskets around the timing cover. Everything was cracking and breaking apart as I touched it. The chain and the guides were not in bad shape, but I am replacing all of it while I am in here.

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Since the upper and lower oil pans were off to get the timing cover off, it was the perfect time to replace the rear main seal. The flange was just as difficult as everyone said it would be to remove, and that seal was absolutely baked on and super hard to get off even with a drift and a hammer. Also removed the rear heater coolant lines back to where they duck over the exhaust. I cut the lines here and will remove the rest when I refresh the exhaust.

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hisandhers80s said:
do these valves look normal?
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YES

great job, I've seen a few of these cruisers get headgaskets at another shop only to have those timing chain cover o-rings start leaking a year later. Your doing it the right way.
 
TheBussman said:
YES

great job, I've seen a few of these cruisers get headgaskets at another shop only to have those timing chain cover o-rings start leaking a year later. Your doing it the right way.
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I am trying to build this the right way so it runs for another 30 years. Certainly not cheap or easy, and not every day is fun, but the fun will start once it is back together. The funny thing is, I have only driven the cruiser 450-500 miles. It has great bones as they say, little to no rust, but breathing life back into this 1FZ, and then adding the fun bits.
 
I'm sure you will have it looking good in no time 😎
 
The only thing worse than removing old FIPG is cleaning off and removing newly cured FIPG from oil pans that you put on and then had to take off 3 weeks later.

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Gettin' there
 
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