Build His 80 and Her 80 tandem build thread

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Trying to get ready to get the front end back together this weekend and get the first start! Tonight I installed all new ground wires with upgraded wires as well as a new hot wire for the starter. I also put the finishing touches on the EGR delete by putting the ball bearings in the ends of the vacuum hoses and installed the diode to keep from getting a code. I also forgot to untangle the breather lines for the transmission and transfer case when we put everything back in, so I had to lower the transmission just a little so I could get my hands on the breather lines and get them run up to the transmission dip stick breather ports. I also got started on getting the quad headlights together so I will be ready to install when the time comes! Last, I got the Harmonic Balancer and crank bolt back in and torqued down.

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Got the radiator, fan clutch, and shroud back in the truck and the last few hoses hooked up and clamped down. Also, got the alternator belts on and got them tightened up. I was also able to modify the Holley Retro Bright head lights and get them installed in the headlight buckets. Tomorrow need to get the cruise, kick down, and accelerator cables adjusted, get the air box, AFM, and hose connected, install the battery and battery box, then start filling everything with fluids. Need to fill engine with oil, fill transmission and power steering, and add radiator fluid then pressure test to see if I have any leaks. Once I do a final look over really good, it might just be time to get the oil pressure up on the engine, and see if it will start!

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Keep killing it! I'm excited for you to do that first crank...that said, don't freak out if you have a few wrinkles to iron out. You've basically rebuilt the entire rig, so there's sure to be a missed connector, loose bolt, etc. that can leave you scratching your head for a moment.

When I had my Audi RS6 (sold it to buy my cruiser!), I did a an engine pull, top end overhaul, rebuilt turbos, and 6 speed transmission swap...after 18 months of hibernation, the anticipation of the first crank and then firing was intoxicating! I'm wishing you a happy day when that key turns!
Some inspiration for you from my first start...
 
Well, @CrabCake, you were right! I have some wrinkles to iron out, but it started! I found pretty quickly, that I had not tightened the feed lines coming out of the stop of the steering box. Then I found that I had forgotten to connect the hoses coming from the transmission to the oil cooler, and got a nice spatter of ATF all over the wall. Next, it will idle normal, for 30-45 seconds, then the RPMs go straight up, the engine backfires and it shuts down on its own. The last thing I noticed is that once i connect the battery and turn the key, I can no longer turn the key tp the off position and take the key out. Only when I disconnect the battery will the key turn to off, and come out of the cylinder. Looks like tomorrow I have a lot of research to do to figure out what is going on and how to correct it.

 
hisandhers80s said:
Well, @CrabCake, you were right! I have some wrinkles to iron out, but it started! I found pretty quickly, that I had not tightened the feed lines coming out of the stop of the steering box. Then I found that I had forgotten to connect the hoses coming from the transmission to the oil cooler, and got a nice spatter of ATF all over the wall. Next, it will idle normal, for 30-45 seconds, then the RPMs go straight up, the engine backfires and it shuts down on its own. The last thing I noticed is that once i connect the battery and turn the key, I can no longer turn the key tp the off position and take the key out. Only when I disconnect the battery will the key turn to off, and come out of the cylinder. Looks like tomorrow I have a lot of research to do to figure out what is going on and how to correct it.

Click to expand...

It All sounds pretty minor considering everything you have done !
Actually sounds pretty good 😉
 
Now the engine is surging, seem to possibly have a misfire or cylinder not firing, a strange whining noise, and the engine is surging.

 
So as Captain Quint from Jaws said “Here’s to Swimming with Bowlegged Women!” Of and :beer: to the best, most knowledgeable (my opinion at least), and most patient teacher out there @Malleus. He spend half the day exchanging texts, pictures, and probably close to two hours on the phone helping me track down these issues.

This is going to be long and two parts so here it goes.

I had two obvious problems from my first start and the few starts there after. This first problem was that my key would not turn to the off position when the battery was connected but turned and came right out when I disconnected the battery. The second problem is there is a strange misfire, and immediately I am thinking related to the injectors. More on this one in the second post. So, we started with the key and ignition issue because I really did not want to keep hooking and unhooking the battery. That means I needed to pull the dash to check the key interlock solenoid. Once the dash was apart, I was able to test the solenoid and I was getting inside the range (17 ohms) on the resistance. Next, I grabbed a 12 volt battery I had from my deer trail cameras and some alligator clips and tested the operation by applying power across the two pins in the connector. The solenoid clicked as expected. We can now eliminate that as the problem.

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Next, I decided to test the shift lock solenoid which is under the shifter, so the shift console had to come out. I did not get a resistance inside that range, but when I applied 12v power to the two pins, it operated as expected. I tested this solenoid because I can take the shifter from park to L and back without every hitting the shifter button on the side of the shifter. So I may need a shift interlock solenoid.

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Next I moved into checking that I had resistance from the key interlock solenoid to the wires that came to the shifter for the computer shift lock control module. I did get continuity as expected on both wires that I needed to test. Next we pulled the cover off the shifter lock module. I pulled the circuit board out and after a good inspection, I found the diode D12 was burnt. So, I also need a shifter lock module. So, if I leave the key interlock solenoid unplugged, I can still remove the key and not have to keep unhooking the battery while I get the rest figured out and get parts ordered.

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Also, I had a Center Diff Lock button sitting on the shelf, so I changed it out with the button that was there, but had Diff written on it with a printed label. And I pulled a ton of useless and unused wires out from under the dash while I was in there.

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Moving on to the misfire. And I ran out of room in the last post, so the picture of pile of wires will be at the end of this post.

So we took a look at the EWD and it said to test to verify no voltage on each wire for each injector across harness plug A at the ECM. Then after that verify that you are getting voltage across each injector wire at the same location when connected to ground. So I rotated the glove box out of the way, and unscrewed the ECM so I could access plug A and as soon as I got my light in the right place and started checking for each injector wire coming out of the harness plug, I noticed that there is not a wire in the harness at all for injector #5 (#50 on the plug diagram). So in theory, I should be able to run a wire from the plug connector to the #5 injector and run a ground wire or verify the ground wire in the harness is good, and that should solve the misfire!

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hisandhers80s said:
So as Captain Quint from Jaws said “Here’s to Swimming with Bowlegged Women!” Of and :beer: to the best, most knowledgeable (my opinion at least), and most patient teacher out there @Malleus. He spend half the day exchanging texts, pictures, and probably close to two hours on the phone helping me track down these issues.

This is going to be long and two parts so here it goes.

I had two obvious problems from my first start and the few starts there after. This first problem was that my key would not turn to the off position when the battery was connected but turned and came right out when I disconnected the battery. The second problem is there is a strange misfire, and immediately I am thinking related to the injectors. More on this one in the second post. So, we started with the key and ignition issue because I really did not want to keep hooking and unhooking the battery. That means I needed to pull the dash to check the key interlock solenoid. Once the dash was apart, I was able to test the solenoid and I was getting inside the range (17 ohms) on the resistance. Next, I grabbed a 12 volt battery I had from my deer trail cameras and some alligator clips and tested the operation by applying power across the two pins in the connector. The solenoid clicked as expected. We can now eliminate that as the problem.

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Next, I decided to test the shift lock solenoid which is under the shifter, so the shift console had to come out. I did not get a resistance inside that range, but when I applied 12v power to the two pins, it operated as expected. I tested this solenoid because I can take the shifter from park to L and back without every hitting the shifter button on the side of the shifter. So I may need a shift interlock solenoid.

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Next I moved into checking that I had resistance from the key interlock solenoid to the wires that came to the shifter for the computer shift lock control module. I did get continuity as expected on both wires that I needed to test. Next we pulled the cover off the shifter lock module. I pulled the circuit board out and after a good inspection, I found the diode D12 was burnt. So, I also need a shifter lock module. So, if I leave the key interlock solenoid unplugged, I can still remove the key and not have to keep unhooking the battery while I get the rest figured out and get parts ordered.

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Also, I had a Center Diff Lock button sitting on the shelf, so I changed it out with the button that was there, but had Diff written on it with a printed label. And I pulled a ton of useless and unused wires out from under the dash while I was in there.

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I got a solenoid if you need one! Nice work troubleshooting!!
 
After 10 days on vacation, it was time to get back to work on the 80. I got new exhaust heat shields and electrical connectors from Ballenger to replace the missing wires from the ECU to injector #5, along with the Shift Solenoid Computer and Shift Interlock Solenoid from @Fj80oregon and @swamp-thing. All of this arrived while I was out of town, so I was ready to work when I got home. First, after being called out by @Broski for my tacky job on the water temp gauge, I fixed that. Then I moved to the shift lock solenoid and computer. I was trying to fix an issue with my key stuck at the ACC position when the battery is connected. The shift computer works, but I may have to modify the solenoid, as it did not fix my issue, so back to the drawing board here. Next, I moved on to running the wire from the ECU to injector #5 since the entire wire was missing from the plug at the ECU. I had to order 3 different pin styles from Ballenger to make sure I got the right one, and was able to get the pin on the wire and into the plug connector that goes into the ECU. However, I thought I had a handful of the connectors that go into the injector plug, but either I was wrong, or I cannot find them in the mess that is my garage. So I was not able to get the injector wired and see if that fixes my misfire. I was able to run the wires out to where it will pin into the injector plug, so I am ready to pin the wires and plug it in and fire it up when the parts get here. 12 hours in the garage and not much finished, but it goes that way some days. I only took one picture all day, and @Broski is still going to tell me that I need to get smaller clamps, which are on order but not here yet...

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Sometimes the actual tumbler, ignition cylinder go bad or get really gunked up -- I'm not sure your exact issue with the key stuck on ACC but potentially try cleaning ( lubing ) that ignition cylinder and maybe it will help. Worn keys and ignition issues are something you don't want to occur unexpectedly -- ask me how I know ( Dollhouse/Canyonlands ) and the terror of a truck that will not start due to ignition cylinder failure......very far from rescue.


~Ash
 
swamp-thing said:
Sometimes the actual tumbler, ignition cylinder go bad or get really gunked up -- I'm not sure your exact issue with the key stuck on ACC but potentially try cleaning ( lubing ) that ignition cylinder and maybe it will help. Worn keys and ignition issues are something you don't want to occur unexpectedly -- ask me how I know ( Dollhouse/Canyonlands ) and the terror of a truck that will not start due to ignition cylinder failure......very far from rescue.


~Ash
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The thing that tells me it is not the cylinder (I think) is the fact that as soon as I disconnect the battery, the key turns effortlessly to the off position. My thought is the key interlock solenoid which is attached to the cylinder.
 
swamp-thing said:
if you want to test that theory I can look and see if I have one of those solenoids here, I know the one you mean that is at the end of the cylinder...
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See if you have that and the shift lock solenoid that is below the shifter for a 94 80 series and if you do I will take both of them.
 
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