Build His 80 and Her 80 tandem build thread

[hisandhers80s]

Put reference paint marks on the hardware, that way you know at a glance if one is moving or not. I started seeing this in the old car/racing scene but know quite a few off roaders that also use this method.

Just read your last post, hope everything works out, I know you have put a lot of time into this and the truck is looking good.

I usually do use the paint reference marks. I learned this trick when doing maintenance on my tractor tires and loader bolts, but for some reason did not put it to practice on this 80. Probably because my paint markers were out at camp with the tractor, but no excuse because they are cheap and good insurance.

I ended up spending most of the day yesterday pressure washing the driveway and the house so did not put any work in on the 80. I hope to swap out the ECM's one night this week to see if there is a difference.

I have struggled with this one because it is a 94 and an OBD-1 truck. When the harness is connected fully, there is no Check Engine Light. My assumption is that if there is no CEL, then there is no code as well, so I have not checked for codes. My logic here may be flawed, so if someone knows for sure there could be codes and not have a CEL, let me know.

 

[Brindleboxer]

Mine is a 94 as well. After driving them for a while you get a feel for when it isn't running the same as usual. I will pull codes if the truck seems to be running "weird" even if no dash light. This is just me because it is an easy process and how the computer is in ours (removing codes automatically) I use it as a feel good measure.

In all honesty I think throughout the years I have only ever seen it show one code without a light and it was for the evap system IIRC.

Keep at it, you are doing great and have a lot to be proud of. I know the small hiccups usually outweigh the major achievements (that is just how most humans function).

 

[hisandhers80s]

I got the new Tom Wood’s rear DC shaft Installed and swapped out the EFS 3”rear heavy springs swapped out with a pair of Dobinsons C59-613V 3” Flexi coil springs. This leveled up the rear to match the front at 24” from center of the hub to the flares on both front and rear! The combo of the lower springs and the DC shaft also got rid of the clunk I had.

I also figured out I made an error when ordering the 3.1:1 gears. I ordered the 10% under-drive version instead of the 10% over-drive, so the engine is working much harder than I want it to. So, I am now going to have to order the over-drive gears and take the transfer case out one more time.

 

[Broski]

I got the new Tom Wood’s rear DC shaft Installed and swapped out the EFS 3”rear heavy springs swapped out with a pair of Dobinsons C59-613V 3” Flexi coil springs. This leveled up the rear to match the front at 24” from center of the hub to the flares on both front and rear! The combo of the lower springs and the DC shaft also got rid of the clunk I had.

I also figured out I made an error when ordering the 3.1:1 gears. I ordered the 10% under-drive version instead of the 10% over-drive, so the engine is working much harder than I want it to. So, I am now going to have to order the over-drive gears and take the transfer case out one more time.

Or put bigger tires on.
Overdrive gears don’t make sense for a trail Rig.

IMO the engine should be working easier/ less
With the under drive gears. But with more RPMs

IMO you should leave them in !!

It’s what I run 3.1:1 low range gears + 10% under drive works in both high & low and 5.29s in the diffs.

Overdrive gear = lower RPMs at speed

Under drive gears give more power to get you moving

 

[hisandhers80s]

I will agree with you, once I have a Diesel truck to pull the trailer rig with! But while I am having to drive it to the trails, I think the under-drive is need to go so it is not working so hard. The diesel truck is in the plans, and I already have a trailer for it, but need to get moved to Texas from Mississippi first and the over-drive gears will help a ton with that task and getting to trails until the diesel is in hand.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I could be wrong but isn't the slip joint for the rear supposed to be attached to the transfer case? Just the opposite of the front.

 

[Broski]

I will agree with you, once I have a Diesel truck to pull the trailer rig with! But while I am having to drive it to the trails, I think the under-drive is need to go so it is not working so hard. The diesel truck is in the plans, and I already have a trailer for it, but need to get moved to Texas from Mississippi first and the over-drive gears will help a ton with that task and getting to trails until the diesel is in hand.

What RPM are you running at high way speed.

Again you engine isn’t working harder just spinning faster
You might save gas but that's it.

 

[Broski]

Or simply drive slower

 

[hisandhers80s]

2500 rpms at 55mph

 

[bhsdriller]

No input on the gearing but these engines don’t mind being spun at rpm. If anything they prefer it mine runs cooler

Like he mentioned might save some gas but how much is all the extra work going to cost?

 

[hisandhers80s]

Well I took it down to the local muffler shop in the hood and got an old guy to weld the o2 sensor bung closed. It is now so quiet, and drives like a different truck. It also made me understand what you all were saying about the engine being fine at the higher RPM’s now that I can hear the hum of the Nittos and not the super loud hole in the exhaust. It is also idling much better!

 

[Mag71k5]

If you have some elevation you can climb, id also test it that way. Thats when I noticed the benefits of my re-gear the most in my 1st gen tacoma. It was a total slug climbing passes here in Colorado.

Then I went from 4.10's to 4.88s with 34's. Night and day difference.

 

[Rdonahe]

Well I took it down to the local muffler shop in the hood and got an old guy to weld the o2 sensor bung closed. It is now so quiet, and drives like a different truck. It also made me understand what you all were saying about the engine being fine at the higher RPM’s now that I can hear the hum of the Nittos and not the super loud hole in the exhaust. It is also idling much better!

Another vote to keep your underdrive gears. I run 35s and did the 3:1 low range + underdrive gears. Best mod for my 80 hands down.

 

[hisandhers80s]

Spent the day working on electrical stuff. I noticed I was getting the quick blinker when I used the blinkers, so I got out and checked and was not getting either front blinkers. I remembered that I wired the headlights backwards, so I pulled the new connectors I installed apart and de-pinned the truck side connectors and swapped the two wires, and the blinkers are working!

Next, installed a coolant temp sensor when I was putting the short block together, but had not run the power for it. I used a fuse tap, and got gauge on the A pillar working.

I had also been putting off running the Bantam X SPOD fuse block and controller because I had not figured out how I wanted to mount it. I decided that the bracket that went around the rear heater that I had removed might be a decent solution if I hammered it flat. I put a bolt through one end at the firewall, and then I bent an aluminum support for the middle. I got the Bantam X fuse block mounted along with a 100A breaker and then installed a Bluesea disconnect for the 12k Comeup winch. Still have to finish up a few details but, got a good jump on it. Still need to run the wiring into the cab for the controller and start connecting the Baja designs lights I bought with the DeltaVS bumper. I am also going to run my GSMR radio and CB radio off the SPOD fuse block.

 

[Broski]

Spent the day working on electrical stuff. I noticed I was getting the quick blinker when I used the blinkers, so I got out and checked and was not getting either front blinkers. I remembered that I wired the headlights backwards, so I pulled the new connectors I installed apart and de-pinned the truck side connectors and swapped the two wires, and the blinkers are working!

Next, installed a coolant temp sensor when I was putting the short block together, but had not run the power for it. I used a fuse tap, and got gauge on the A pillar working.

I had also been putting off running the Bantam X SPOD fuse block and controller because I had not figured out how I wanted to mount it. I decided that the bracket that went around the rear heater that I had removed might be a decent solution if I hammered it flat. I put a bolt through one end at the firewall, and then I bent an aluminum support for the middle. I got the Bantam X fuse block mounted along with a 100A breaker and then installed a Bluesea disconnect for the 12k Comeup winch. Still have to finish up a few details but, got a good jump on it. Still need to run the wiring into the cab for the controller and start connecting the Baja designs lights I bought with the DeltaVS bumper. I am also going to run my GSMR radio and CB radio off the SPOD fuse block.

There a 20 amp fused circuit under the passenger seat that was for the rear heater.
Very convenient I used it for my ham radio and USB outlets
Much easier the running wires through the fire wall

 

[hisandhers80s]

Good to know. I have not tested the voltage of any of the wires left under the seat, but that would certainly make this easier!

 

[Broski]

Good to know. I have not tested the voltage of any of the wires left under the seat, but that would certainly make this easier!

It’s a 20 amp fused circuit OEM

 

[hisandhers80s]

Got the new heat shields with new hardware installed this morning!

 

[hisandhers80s]

Got the SPOD wired up and working. Now I can start connecting the lights!

 

[Malleus]

I wouldn't assume that just because you don't have an MIL, you don't have DTC(s). Does the bulb work at all?