Build His 80 and Her 80 tandem build thread

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Well I finally have some miles on the 80! With the rear drive shaft out, the front hubs locked and the center diff locked the noise is gone and I was able to run it for 25 miles, and even took a trip to Home Depot to get a bolt and nut for the seat belt buckle. Tomorrow I am taking it down to @offr0adlim0 at 49 tire for the alignment and then I should be able to order the Tom Woods DC shaft.
 
hisandhers80s said:
Well I finally have some miles on the 80! With the rear drive shaft out, the front hubs locked and the center diff locked the noise is gone and I was able to run it for 25 miles, and even took a trip to Home Depot to get a bolt and nut for the seat belt buckle. Tomorrow I am taking it down to @offr0adlim0 at 49 tire for the alignment and then I should be able to order the Tom Woods DC shaft.
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There’s really nothing to align it just toe in easily done at home.
Unless you just want the numbers make sure they give you a printout.
 
Broski said:
There’s really nothing to align it just toe in easily done at home.
Unless you just want the numbers make sure they give you a printout.
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I say alignment, but they are checking that both axles are centered front to back and left to right, and checking the toe. I replaced everything suspension wise under the truck and just want Rob to double check me and make any adjustments I missed. Also, I am in the middle of packing to move from Mississippi to Texas in 4 weeks and the cruiser being at the shop and out of my garage will allow me to clean everything and get parts sorted out and packed in totes.
 
I spent some time this afternoon getting the Delta Rear QPM setup with the ARB twin compressor and a Blue Sea fuse block and a Blue Sea Breaker to shut off the power when not in use. Still need to run the air lines for the lockers and run the wiring for the switches and install the solenoids for the lockers but its a start!

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hisandhers80s said:
I spent some time this afternoon getting the Delta Rear QPM setup with the ARB twin compressor and a Blue Sea fuse block and a Blue Sea Breaker to shut off the power when not in use. Still need to run the air lines for the lockers and run the wiring for the switches and install the solenoids for the lockers but its a start!

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I love a well thought out wiring job. What size wires are you running from the battery? Are you running dual batteries up front or have a starting battery and house battery in the cab? What gauge is that 1/0?
 
OffRoadScott said:
I love a well thought out wiring job. What size wires are you running from the battery? Are you running dual batteries up front or have a starting battery and house battery in the cab? What gauge is that 1/0?
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Only have the start battery currently, but nothing is connected. Just ran 1/0 wiring from the start battery to the back QPM. I have a 100 Amp fuse block but am only running the compressor and have LED light strips that go on the Gullwings so you have light when they are open at night. I will probably run a second battery, but have not planned that out yet.
 
hisandhers80s said:
Only have the start battery currently, but nothing is connected. Just ran 1/0 wiring from the start battery to the back QPM. I have a 100 Amp fuse block but am only running the compressor and have LED light strips that go on the Gullwings so you have light when they are open at night. I will probably run a second battery, but have not planned that out yet.
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Leave it as it is, if you have the time install a lithium battery in the back. RedARC makes a DCDC charger that allows you to run dual chemistry batteries and an added bonus if you get certain ones you can also use solar to charge the batteries too. 1/0 is more than enough, better safe than sorry. Blue Sea Systems has an app that helps you determine the proper gauge wire based off load, length, etc.
 
When I finally got my 80 back on the road another the new short block, I had a rear drive shaft clattering around. I swapped out the existing 3” OME springs for EFS 3” springs and the increase in lift caused an issue with the pinion angle causing the drive shaft noise. I also noticed the front output shaft of the new rebuilt transfer case was leaking slightly. I noticed when I replaced the dust cover during the rebuild it apparently did not seat properly. I took the transfer case out to try a friends transfer case just to make sure I had not done something wrong during the rebuild on the t-case which did not change the noise with the drive shaft. I ordered a new Type T seal and got everything changed out and put back together today. The 80 has been at the shop for a full alignment and 35’s so I wanted to get this done so I can swap out the t-cases when I get it back this week and get the rear DC shaft ordered.

I am also considering changing out the rear springs for something different. What came with the lift I ordered from Superior Engineering was 3” heavy EFS springs. During the build I decided I was not doing a rear bumper with tire carrier, etc, I also opted out of the LRA auxiliary fuel tank, and ended up removing all of the seats with the exception of the two front seats. This has made the rear higher that intended. No one in the US carries the EFS brand springs so I am about to try and figure out the next best option. Thinking Dobinson but a lot of options and need the cruiser back so I can measure current height as well.

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Making more progress! Just got the truck back from @wct49 and @offr0adlim0 for the alignment and new 35” Nitto Trail Grapplers. I also ordered a set of Dobinsons C59-613V Flexi Rear Coil Springs to try and level out the back. With the EFS 3” Heavy Springs that were sent with my Superior Engineering 3” lift, I am at 26” from the center of the hub to the fender in the rear and only 24” from the center of the hub to the fender in the front. Got this soil springs on the way from @crikeymike at Exit Off Road. I also have a Tom Woods rear DC shaft that should be here on Monday. This weekend I am getting the loaner T-case out and mine with the 3.1:1 low range and 10% under-driver gears back in. Last thing I need to figure out is the hole in the exhaust where I removed one of the O2 sensors and the stud broke off so I cannot get this block off plate to work. I have a new bung that can be welded in or just weld the block off plate to the old bung, but need an assist with welding to get this done.

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Went to to do a quick drive to warm up the engine, and i had a crazy loud noise that was shaking the whole truck when I was decelerating. I thought I may have put too much ATF fluid in the transmission, so I checked it the right way when I got it back to the house warmed up and the level was perfect. I got on my creeper and rolled under the truck to investigate. I found a shiny ring around the inside drivers side front rim. Turns out the bottom bolt on the caliper had backed out and was completely missing. I had an extra bolt so I got it put back together and all was right with the world again! Now I can start on the transfer case swap.
 
hisandhers80s said:
Went to to do a quick drive to warm up the engine, and i had a crazy loud noise that was shaking the whole truck when I was decelerating. I thought I may have put too much ATF fluid in the transmission, so I checked it the right way when I got it back to the house warmed up and the level was perfect. I got on my creeper and rolled under the truck to investigate. I found a shiny ring around the inside drivers side front rim. Turns out the bottom bolt on the caliper had backed out and was completely missing. I had an extra bolt so I got it put back together and all was right with the world again! Now I can start on the transfer case swap.
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That’s a common issue with the front caliper’s
Make sure to torque it to spec. Memory says
90 foot pounds
Then dbl. check it in a few hundred miles.

It on my list of to check hardware before a trail run😉
 
Broski said:
That’s a common issue with the front caliper’s
Make sure to torque it to spec. Memory says
90 foot pounds
Then dbl. check it in a few hundred miles.

It on my list of to check hardware before a trail run😉
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I want to think I torqued them when I installed them. But big possibility I did not, since one walked all the way out before I even got 200 miles on it. :frown:
 
I am apparently getting better at taking out and installing a transfer case. Last time it took four hours to get one out and 11 hours to get one back in. This time, I had them swapped out in under 5 hours.
 
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hisandhers80s said:
I want to think I torqued them when I installed them. But big possibility I did not, since one walked all the way out before I even got 200 miles on it. :frown:
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Since I daily my 80, this is an honest fear of mine and with a trip coming up in September I plan on getting under the rig and making sure everything is torqued to spec.
 
I also did the first oil change after running the break in of the new short block. Used conventional 10w-30 and the OEM short filter. I am planning on leaving this oil in for about 500 miles and changing it again.
 
hisandhers80s said:
I also did the first oil change after running the break in of the new short block. Used conventional 10w-30 and the OEM short filter. I am planning on leaving this oil in for about 500 miles and changing it again.
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So it’s running solid now? Engine wise? I know you were fighting gremlins.
 
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