Ill check that after work today! thank you for your help.
have you ever had the problem with your power window not working?
have you ever had the problem with your power window not working?
High praise for the Pioneer speaker replacement behind stock grille!
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So you pulled the plug and it doesn't work, but uh did you plug it back in before hitting the switch?
This, 3 screws. I didn't see this at first and got me frustrated for 5 minutes thinking I was gonna break the panel. Then oops...there she is
yeah. i plugged the window control back in.
i went with Best Buy's advise, they handed me the 1642Rs and said that they would work..sure enough...they don't fit. i dont think they know about the headache of the '97 LC. i'm going back to Best Buy right now to exchange them.
thank you for your help
i went with Best Buy's advise, they handed me the 1642Rs and said that they would work..sure enough...they don't fit. i dont think they know about the headache of the '97 LC. i'm going back to Best Buy right now to exchange them.
thank you for your help
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Make sure the safty button on the driver side is not pushed by mistake.
I played with the wires a bit and now the window works. there might have been some build up or dirt blocking the connection. i really dont know what the problem was, but it seems to work fine now
It looks like i am having similar problems as other '97 land cruiser owners. i will just remove the stock grilles because i dont think i can find a replacement speaker that can fit behind it. i feel defeated...
It looks like i am having similar problems as other '97 land cruiser owners. i will just remove the stock grilles because i dont think i can find a replacement speaker that can fit behind it. i feel defeated...
Help: I can't get the door panel off
I'm trying to do this speaker upgrade but cannot get the door panel off. I've searched the forum but no one tells how to do it, other than "jiggle it as you lift". The problem is that the black plastic cover at the front interior corner of the window that covers the side mirror mounts seems to be in the way. And all the jiggling of the door panel to remove it has resulted in the corner of that black plastic piece cutting the leather on top of the door panel.
How do I remove that black plastic piece so I can lift off the door panel?
These are the front doors; all screws have been removed and snap in fasteners around the perimeter of the panel have been released.
Thanks!
I'm trying to do this speaker upgrade but cannot get the door panel off. I've searched the forum but no one tells how to do it, other than "jiggle it as you lift". The problem is that the black plastic cover at the front interior corner of the window that covers the side mirror mounts seems to be in the way. And all the jiggling of the door panel to remove it has resulted in the corner of that black plastic piece cutting the leather on top of the door panel.
How do I remove that black plastic piece so I can lift off the door panel?
These are the front doors; all screws have been removed and snap in fasteners around the perimeter of the panel have been released.
Thanks!
Three screws, right? You also need to disconnect the light at the bottom as well as the switches.
I don't remember taking off the black plastic piece, but I could be wrong. I seem to remember having to slightly maneuver it around that. The is also a snap in fastener right near the top near the black plastic part. I think the speaker grills need to come off to.
I don't remember taking off the black plastic piece, but I could be wrong. I seem to remember having to slightly maneuver it around that. The is also a snap in fastener right near the top near the black plastic part. I think the speaker grills need to come off to.
I hope someone can help me...
Where is the location of the stock amp on a '94 FZJ80... and Can I get access to all my speakers (separately) from there?
Like each separate: Front door, Front dash, rear door, stock sub and rear cargo top speakers...
Or are the front door and dash in same line / and rear door and cargo in same line also...
I would like to install a new amp/xover and not have to route new wires, if I can jump that block, I'd be very happy. I just need to find it.
Thanks
Where is the location of the stock amp on a '94 FZJ80... and Can I get access to all my speakers (separately) from there?
Like each separate: Front door, Front dash, rear door, stock sub and rear cargo top speakers...
Or are the front door and dash in same line / and rear door and cargo in same line also...
I would like to install a new amp/xover and not have to route new wires, if I can jump that block, I'd be very happy. I just need to find it.
Thanks
Pry the black plastic piece off with your fingers and a flat head screw driver. Probably use the window side to insert the screwdriver. The bottom leather area might scratch. It's pretty easy.
Think it is inside rear pass.side compartment behind the 3rd seat. You have to reach inside it and/or take the rest of the plastic off the interior.
What is "Skillet's mounting" and how did you mount the new 4" speakers into the rear doors? I found that they don't fit into the original baskets. I've butchered up one of the baskets (cut the whole back off the thing) to get the new speaker to fit, but now I don't know how to get the speaker to stay mounted to the basket. Any ideas would be appreciated as I'm an ignorant sot when it comes to stereo stuff. \
Thanks guys!
Post up some pictures of the hacking you've done and maybe that'll give a starting point for helping you.
Ok, I've finished the install and the speakers sound great! Much crisper sound and deeper base than the stock speakers. I ordered 6.5" Pioneer TS-G1641R speakers for the front, but received TS-G1643's instead. However, the TS-G1643's fit. The rears are 4" Pioneer TS-G1041R speakers, and all fits behind the stock speaker grills/door panels. And FWIW, both pairs of speakers (front and rear doors) cost less than $70 since they're discontinued. The current models list for that much or more for just one pair. I love shopping on the Internet.
Thank you everyone for taking the time to post tips, pics and instructions on this forum; it's great! Here are some pics from my install. Hopefully they will help someone else out who maybe needs a little more guidance like me...
I had great difficulty removing the door panel because the black triangular trim piece at the front of the door window (covers side mirror mounting bolts) would not allow the door panel to be removed, and I couldn't figure out how to remove it without possibly breaking it. Well, after enough frustration I figured "what the hell! If it breaks, it breaks!" I was lucky that it didn't break, but here are some pics of how it's mounted.
Two tabs secure the bottom to the door, and there's a single pin that is press fit into a hole with a plastic sleeve. To remove, merely slide a flat blade screwdriver under the cover close to the pin location and pop it off. It helps to have the window open so you're screwdriver handle has some room to move. Simple really!
The window switch/doorlock control panel simply pops off. Use your flat screwdriver to pry the FRONT up, lift and pull forward to remove it. this will disengage the tab that locks the back down.
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Remove the door handle latch cup by removing the single screw and popping it up from the rear. The front has a tab that engages the door, so it cannot be popped up from the front without risk of breakage.
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Removing the door panel - follow the instructions by others earlier in this thread - remove the screws and then use a flat screwdriver to pop the fasteners loose from behind the panel around the perimiter, then lift the panel out. Here is the door with the panel removed:
My original OEM speakers are clearly shot!
The 6.5" Pioneer TS-G1643R speakers for the front do not sit flush against the door as the magnet hits the window channel inside the door.
I positioned each speaker and drilled 3 new small holes to secure each speaker with the longer screws that came with the speakers since the Toyota speaker screws were too short.
I then used some foam insulation from Home Depot to line the perimeter of the speaker opening in the door.
Here, you can see the foam sticking out from behind the speaker. As I snugged down the speaker screws, I raised and lowered the window to make sure the speaker didn't push the window track out of alignment and cause binding:
I soldered the wires from the Toyota speakers to the new wires that came with my speakers. This allows the new speakers to plug directly into the stock Toyota harness in each door.
Here's the door reassembled:
And a close up of the speaker:
My original OEM speakers are clearly shot!
The 6.5" Pioneer TS-G1643R speakers for the front do not sit flush against the door as the magnet hits the window channel inside the door.
I positioned each speaker and drilled 3 new small holes to secure each speaker with the longer screws that came with the speakers since the Toyota speaker screws were too short.
I then used some foam insulation from Home Depot to line the perimeter of the speaker opening in the door.
Here, you can see the foam sticking out from behind the speaker. As I snugged down the speaker screws, I raised and lowered the window to make sure the speaker didn't push the window track out of alignment and cause binding:
I soldered the wires from the Toyota speakers to the new wires that came with my speakers. This allows the new speakers to plug directly into the stock Toyota harness in each door.
Here's the door reassembled:
And a close up of the speaker:
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Rear Speaker Install
The rear speakers I installed are 4" Pioneer TS-G1041R speakers.
Note: It is not necessary to remove the rear door panel to install the rear speakers. Merely use a flat screwdriver to pop the speaker cover off of the speaker and mounting basket.
The rear speakers are mounted in a 'basket' which holds them off of the actual door frame. And the OEM speaker grill snaps into this basket. The stock speakers are secured to the basket with a single screw in the back. I removed the OEM speakers from the basket and found that the magnet on the back of the Pioneers is too large to fit into the basket. I first tried enlarging the cavity with a barrel sanding drum in my drill press, to no avail. Then I decided to just cut the back of the basket off with a jig saw. Unfortunately, I forgot ti take pictures when I was modifying the basket, so some of these pics come from other threads on this forum.
Here's a stock speaker mounted to the basket, and a modified speaker basket. Picture courtesy of nakman:
I used a jigsaw to cut the back of the basket tub off the basket housing. Here, Romer is using a die grinder to clean up the basket opening. This wasn't necessary with the Pioneer speakers as the magnet had plenty of room once the back of the basket was cut off.
Here's the new speaker installed in the basket and the door:
I secured the new speaker to the basket with JB Weld, visible at perimeter of speaker and basket:
Although, if I were smarter I would have just used some longer screws like Romer did in this picture:
I offset the speaker mount tabs slightly from the basket's mounting tabs for the speaker cover and found that it fit perfectly - no modification required to the speaker to clear the grill mounting tabs.
Here's my completed install:
And a close up of the speaker:
The rear speakers I installed are 4" Pioneer TS-G1041R speakers.
Note: It is not necessary to remove the rear door panel to install the rear speakers. Merely use a flat screwdriver to pop the speaker cover off of the speaker and mounting basket.
The rear speakers are mounted in a 'basket' which holds them off of the actual door frame. And the OEM speaker grill snaps into this basket. The stock speakers are secured to the basket with a single screw in the back. I removed the OEM speakers from the basket and found that the magnet on the back of the Pioneers is too large to fit into the basket. I first tried enlarging the cavity with a barrel sanding drum in my drill press, to no avail. Then I decided to just cut the back of the basket off with a jig saw. Unfortunately, I forgot ti take pictures when I was modifying the basket, so some of these pics come from other threads on this forum.
Here's a stock speaker mounted to the basket, and a modified speaker basket. Picture courtesy of nakman:
I used a jigsaw to cut the back of the basket tub off the basket housing. Here, Romer is using a die grinder to clean up the basket opening. This wasn't necessary with the Pioneer speakers as the magnet had plenty of room once the back of the basket was cut off.
Here's the new speaker installed in the basket and the door:
I secured the new speaker to the basket with JB Weld, visible at perimeter of speaker and basket:
Although, if I were smarter I would have just used some longer screws like Romer did in this picture:
I offset the speaker mount tabs slightly from the basket's mounting tabs for the speaker cover and found that it fit perfectly - no modification required to the speaker to clear the grill mounting tabs.
Here's my completed install:
And a close up of the speaker:
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Nice write-up. Thanks.
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For the record current model Pioneer TS-G1643R speakers did not directly fit my 97 LC. I used some soft 5/16" weather stripping, longer screws, and the speaker magnet was still pressed up against the window channel hard. But I managed to get them behind the oem grills. Pic of magnet/channel looking down from the window gap.
Yes, I found the same thing. I apologize if I didn't make that clear in my write-up. The magnets on my speakers are up against the window channel in the same manner as on your 97 LC. And I also used some thick weatherstripping to fill the gap between the face of the speaker body and the door. I didn't try to snug the speaker tight against the door. I only tightened the screws until the magnet was snug against the window channel. However the door panel and the speaker grill are set far enough off the door frame that everything fit behind the stock panel/grill and looks perfectly stock with no bulges.
I used some thick rubber washers as spacers under the screws as well as the closed foam weather strip, this left a small clearance to the window channel.
