High praise for the Pioneer speaker replacement behind stock grille! (1 Viewer)

[thugmusk]

The Pioneer's arrived Thursday. Extremely fast shipping. Installed the rears last night but had to modify the stock speaker "basket" to accept the new speaker. Almost a 15 minute job, closer to half hour. Much improvemnt with just the rears done.

Rich

 

[thugmusk]

Just got done doing the fronts. No rotarty cutting device needed on these.

What I did was remove the 4 stock white inserts and used the metal clips that came with the speakers. I made 4 rubber washers from a sheet of 1/8 inch rubber by cutting 4 small circles and then melting a small hole in the center. Then fed each screw through the speaker and through each washer thereby holding the screws in place. Lined them up with the clips and tightened. They cleared the window arm and no bulge. They sound great! Well, they should, all the surround was missing from the DS speaker and all but an inch of it was missing from the PS.

Rich

 

[bpenn1980]

I've got a 94 FZJ and unfortunately my Pioneers were NOT a direct install. For some reason the magnet on the rear of the speaker hit the Metal window run. The gap was more than 1/4" and may have been 3/8". Unfortunately it was to much of a gap, so I went ahead and took the speaker grilles off the door panel and installed them on the outside of the door panel and put the Pioneers covers on. They sound better than the old ones, especially since I found the p/s speaker totally missing..... No wonder that side wasn't working. Even though the factory grilles are missing they still look nice and sound good.

I also took this opportunity to replace the door window molding and clean the door locks, window regulators, etc. The windows go up/down like butter now.

Let me know if anyone wants pics with the pioneer grilles on and I will get ya some.

I'm having problems with my '94 install too. The magnet in contact with the glass run is leaving a large gap. I'm going to try 1/2 weather stripping and then put the door panel back on, but I fully expect a bulge and will likely have to try a different speaker or use the Pioneer cover. I'll let you know how it turns out

 

[toyman317]

I took some fuel hose and made 3/8 inch spacers to put between the speaker and the door metal where the screws go in to pull the speaker out some away from the channel. Then filled the gaps with weather strip. Put the door back on and all is well. Hope that helps.

 

[bpenn1980]

Well, the fronts are in. I used 1/2" closed cell weather stripping to build a ring on the sheet metal in hopes that would lift the speaker away from the window run. That worked, though its still touching a little.

As it sits, the 1/2" weather stripping is holding the speaker from pressing too hard on the window run but too far off for the door panel to snap all the way down. Doors still close fine, but there is 1/4" to 1/2" gap there....

I'm leaving it that way for now I guess.

Do you all think the speaker and door panel touching is going to damage the speaker or hinder its performance??

 

[IdahoDoug]

What model Pioneer speakers are you using for the fronts, Penn?? Curious, as I just bought some of the ones I used for a buddy's 80.

DougM

 

[bpenn1980]

What model Pioneer speakers are you using for the fronts, Penn?? Curious, as I just bought some of the ones I used for a buddy's 80.

DougM

Just double-checked to make sure I didnt bugger it up, but I put Pioneer TS-G1641R's up front. I dont think these work in '94's, too deep.

Now I'm worried that the door panel is rubbing on the speaker, so I'll probably pull them....though I cut and soldered the new wires...

 

[=NCG=Blind Man]

 

[jonheld]

I just picked up a pair of the Pioneer TS-G1642Rs off of Ebay for $39. Dropped them in this morning, replacing my Alpine 5.25". No muss, no fuss. I wanted to use the 5.25s in the rear doors, but I ran out of time and patience trying to figure out how to mount them. Stayed with my Alpine 4".

Sounds OK by me so far.

 

[bpenn1980]

I dropped the smaller Pioneers in the rear this morning. Fit perfect, just trimmed the back out of the black plastic basket to hold them. Sound is much improved in the cabin now. Still no bass, but I suppose a sub would help. I dont think my stock one is plugged in or something.

 

[Atoyot1031]

I removed the plastic "nuts" that the original speaker bolts screwed into and clamped the metal "nuts" that came with the speakers into the original holes. Worked well with the screws that came with the speakers and no drilling needed.

What he said. It was super easy. I liked them so much, I bought a second pair of the Pioneer TS-G1642Rs and installed them in the rear doors through over the panels, and holy schnikes, what a difference. As Doug mentioned, with just the front replaced, the lows were lacking, and that is with both my factory Lexus and factory LC "subs" in working order. With the rears installed, it made me want to listen to music again. All that for ~$80 at Wal-Mart.

 

[UCBerzerkeley]

What he said. It was super easy. I liked them so much, I bought a second pair of the Pioneer TS-G1642Rs and installed them in the rear doors through over the panels, and holy schnikes, what a difference. As Doug mentioned, with just the front replaced, the lows were lacking, and that is with both my factory Lexus and factory LC "subs" in working order. With the rears installed, it made me want to listen to music again. All that for ~$80 at Wal-Mart.

I know these pioneers are a budget setup with minimal modification required, but man, you guys would go crazy with a real audio system installed =D

 

[lndcruz]

It seems that the ones mentioned are not available anymore.

Are these the replacements for the TS-G1641R? Pioneer - 6-1/2" 2-Way Car Speakers with Polypropylene Cones (Pair) - TS-G1642R

 

[Atoyot1031]

It seems that the ones mentioned are not available anymore.

Are these the replacements for the TS-G1641R? Pioneer - 6-1/2" 2-Way Car Speakers with Polypropylene Cones (Pair) - TS-G1642R

Yes, they were released as the replacements in '08 I think.

 

[Enigma]

Does Pioneer, or someone else, make a good replacement for the rear cargo area speakers? My 81 seems to have factory speakers all over the place in it.

 

[UCBerzerkeley]

Does Pioneer, or someone else, make a good replacement for the rear cargo area speakers? My 81 seems to have factory speakers all over the place in it.

I simply want to unplug those, however don't want to take apart the entire rear roof liner to get to them!

 

[CycloSteve]

96 FZJ80 here. Installed the 1642's in the front and 1042's in the rear today. Relatively easy install in about two and a half hours.

First disconnected the speakers in the dash, and the ones in the far-back. About an hour invested, mostly in the removal of the back of the headliner.

Re-worked the rear-door baskets, and used a few dabs of hot-glue to hold the speakers to the baskets. Snaped the covers back on. Presto, half hour and done.

Removed the door panels with ease...best panels I have ever worked with; thanks Toyota. Used 1/2 inch strip insulation to seal the speakers, and a 1/4 inch nylon "washers" to mount to the factory nylon nuts in the door. Bought longer screws 14 x 1's. The panel bulges maybe 1/8 inch just at the front, so completely hidden. Definitely less than an hour to complete both sides.

Recommend this upgrade to anyone looking to actually hear some bass from their stereo...OK, plus about a buck of hardware from my local ACE.

Next up, Scion HU; trolling eBay for the right one to work with my iPod/Aux.

 

[Sno bored]

I simply want to unplug those, however don't want to take apart the entire rear roof liner to get to them!

If you want to unplug the cargo area roof speakers you can disconnect them in the passenger side panel next to the stock sub. Pop the panel off and there are connections for the left and right side roof speakers next to the sub.

 

[BenQ]

I bought the Pioneer speakers and i was working on the passenger side first. i am having difficulty removing the door panel. i unscrewed the two screws at the arm rest and the single screw that attached the plastic handle bezel. i went along and popped out all the clips that i could find. i popped our the black triangle peace at the corner of of the window. i did all this, only to find that it was still fixed to the door somehow. i still couldn't slide the door panel up enough to remove it from the door's topmost interior cross rail. so i approached this problem like i do most- i used more muscle. but i got the feeling like i was at the point of damaging something, so i stopped. my question to you is : is there a notoriously hard clip to reach or a trick to removing the front door panel? (yes...i know its probably been covered in countless threads so you can post me a link to the thread and make fun of me if you want. i will only cry a little bit)

and now for a more concerning question. i pulled the plugs on power unlock and power window switch from this passenger side door, now the window wont go up or down. the driver side control and passenger side control cant make this window work. the weather in Washington can be pretty wet so i would like it if i didn't have to cruise around with my window permadown. i could appreciate any help or give advise on this situation.

 

[Grench]

i unscrewed the two screws at the arm rest and the single screw that attached the plastic handle bezel.

Doesn't the arm rest have 3 screws? Two in the main portion then one at the top where the handle meets the door (hidden behind a little rectangle snap in piece)?