Help with FJ40 (08/80-) Parking Brake Lever Fix

[tlaporte]

Before my Cruiser sat for a long time while it was stored, I had an issue with the parking brake lever and cable. The cable has become detached from the lever.

I don't see that anything is broken or missing, although the cap appears a little bit different than the one in the parts diagram below (labeled 46443)

What I can't tell from the parts diagram is how the cap/cable is fastened to the parking brake lever.

Does the cap/cable just need to be tapped back into the holder on the side of the lever? Is that just a press fit? Anybody care to post a picture of their parking brake lever/cable?

 

[Poser]

Considering the corrosion on the components pictured, I would venture a guess that the cam levers that connect to the cable on the backing plates are frozen in the "on" position, preventing the cable from returning to a neutral position, creating the situation you are showing.

 

[tlaporte]

Excellent, thank you, @Poser. After I got past my ELI5 moment, I had a look at the parts diagrams and the FSM and am pretty sure I understand what you mean.

When I am back near the truck in a few days I'll be crawling under to have a look. If the cable is seized is that likely something I'll need to replace, or is it a serviceable part in any way?

 

[SteveH]

If the cable is stuck, shoot some PB-Blaster/WD-40 down the cable (from the top) and into the cable sheath. Your adjuster knob appears to have been chewed away or destroyed by UV light - not a big deal. This mechanism isn't very complex, and being a later model, the cable is short and easy to access.

 

[AdamKFarmer]

You should be able to see the clips and springs on the rear axle they might need some PB blaster to un stick them.

 

[tlaporte]

So I finally got a chance to crawl underneath the truck and I took a couple of photos.

Now that I've read, and re-read, the FSM with respect to the parking brake and re-read this thread I have a couple of more questions.

1. Do I understand correctly that I will need to remove the driveshaft in order to open the backing plate on the parking brake?
2. If so, it's just the four bolts (the lower two of which can be seen in the second photo above)?
3. Given that there are no wheel cylinders in the parking brake to leak, I'm thinking that all of the black crud on the backing plate is escaped grease from the driveshaft.
   
4. @65swb45 had pointed out to me a long time ago that this slip yoke was missing a Zerk fitting, and that I should pull the driveshaft, repack it with grease and put on a new Zerk fitting. Is now that time?

 

[Dynosoar]

I am surprised that it has a t-case parking brake. I thought all '83's had the brake on the rear axle.

Dyno

 

[tlaporte]

It's drums all around on this one, so maybe that is a factor? Didn't the US/Canada trucks have disc brakes in front by '83?

 

[Fast Eddy]

Didn't the US/Canada trucks have disc brakes in front by '83?

'75 even.

 

[MOTOV8R]

So I finally got a chance to crawl underneath the truck and I took a couple of photos.

Now that I've read, and re-read, the FSM with respect to the parking brake and re-read this thread I have a couple of more questions.

1. Do I understand correctly that I will need to remove the driveshaft in order to open the backing plate on the parking brake?
2. If so, it's just the four bolts (the lower two of which can be seen in the second photo above)?
3. Given that there are no wheel cylinders in the parking brake to leak, I'm thinking that all of the black crud on the backing plate is escaped grease from the driveshaft.
   
4. @65swb45 had pointed out to me a long time ago that this slip yoke was missing a Zerk fitting, and that I should pull the driveshaft, repack it with grease and put on a new Zerk fitting. Is now that time?

1. Yes
2. Yes, you will also need to remove the tcase output shaft nut after the driveshaft is out of the way
3. More likely rear output shaft seal. You should replace that seal while you are in there. A speedi sleeve would probably be a good idea as well.
4. Good as any