Help with EZ harness

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TLCandME

TLCandME

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Threads
58
Messages
240
Any assistance with sorting out this wiring would be much appreciated. I've read Coolerman's web page and reviewed the wiring diagrams but I'm still coming up short. Pics are of my gauge cluster - out of a 1971 but not sure the cluster is stock. Trying to mate up an EZ wiring harness - was not able to trace and label wires when initially removed. The white wire with the tape on the right is in the #1 and it counts clockwise ending with the green wire in the 1:00 position at #12. The wires on the left are for the amp meter but I only have two wires in the harness labeled for the amp meter and on the cluster, there are three.

Second picture is of the EZ fuse panel. When wiring up my horn - thought that would be simple and a confidence boost - I failed miserably. I burned out all the 20 amp fuses - the yellow ones. I removed all three at once and went to NAPA for replacements. Now I can't remember if I placed them back correctly. Do they look to be in the right spots?

Much thanks if anyone can take a stab at this. Really stumped but trying to learn as I go.

William
fj40 001.webp
fj40 002.webp
 
That is a gauge cluster from a later year than a 71. :) (Unless they changed to that version in 9/71?) My 2/71 does not have that version. It's probably a 74 or later?

Using Stock Column: Horn wiring with EZ Wire harness.
The horn on a Cruiser works by providing GROUND to the horn relay through the horn button. I would about bet that the EZ harness horn wire just goes through a fuse and provides +12V. That wire needs to connect to the B terminal on the STOCK horn relay. Then a wire from the horn button to the S terminal on the relay needs to be run and finally a wire from the H terminal on the relay to both horns.
 
Start by downloading the schematic diagram for the '71 and memorizing it. The color code of the wires will tell you what they are and what they do. If you can't figure out the schematic, you are going to have big trouble, so you might consider paying someone else.

There are 3 wires at the amp meter because it is the main power distribution point. 1 goes to the battery +. 1 comes from the alternator output B+ lug. 1 goes to the ignition switch and from there to the non switched side of the fuse block.

Generic wiring kits like the EZ are not compatible with everything on a cruiser. In many cases, you will only use the EZ kit to provide power to a circuit or switch and keep the stock wiring on the other side.
 
Thanks for the offer Cruiserjunkie and thanks for the bump Trollhole.

I'm just gun shy after fawking up my horn wiring and blowing every 20 amp fuse in the panel. I still have to read instructions before jumping a car.

I will have failed if I have to take this car to someone to wire the thing. I can go one wire at a time, one system at a time, one gauge at a time. I don't know what an ohm is, I now have two mulitmeters and can do continuity, I now appreciate what a ground is - see above.

Can someone or many someones take this walk with me? Help me understand the what's and why's of what I am doing. I'm just trying to wire the basics - but it ain't basic to me. I don't need this done by any deadline - I just need to feel I'm making progress each week. Many thanks. I am lost and respectfully at your mercy. I will read what you tell me, do what you ask, take pictures as needed for clarification. I have reference material - Tracy Martin's automotive electrical wiring en route - but I fear that's not enough - HELP!!

William
 
Thank you for the references Pin Head. I am going to read them over lunch today. I really appreciate your efforts to edumacate me / school me on electronics.

I got this 40 so that I would be forced to learn cars and develop a hobby - wrenching - and one day share that with my son. I have spent a year doing repairs you could knock out in a weekend - but I am so proud of what I have learned along the way. It has all been worth it.

William
 
There is a pic earlier in the thread of my EZ fuse box but I don't know which one specifically - my guess would be the cheapest - when I go to their site, I can't find a fuse panel that looks like mine - one with the two silver things at the top - the ones in the pics have them at opposite corners. But I'm getting ready to call them now so I will ask - I bought this harness over a year ago.

Thanks for your help Cruiserjunkie!

Oh, and my steering column is just that steering. There is no horn on it and there is an aftermarket turn signal arm with hazard that's anchored to the side of the column. I can take pics as I don't know model or make but it looks aftermarket.
 
I was told by EZ that I have the 12 circuit. By the way, very friendly on the tech line and seemed to have all the time in the world to answer my questions. So far EXCELLENT on product support.

William
 
Alright mine is a 77 but was slightly different then the fm said but everything is working maybe mine is a late 76 production who knows. first color is wire second color is stripe Blue/red power for gages Yellow/black oil pressure sender Yellow/red fuel sending White/no stripe temp sender Green/yellow right turn indicator Green/black left turn indicator Red/yellow high beam indicator White/black this goes to light switch and turns on gage lights with head lights every other wire on my setup that is white/black is GROUND so I assume thta is the case here as well. Red/black ran todeep back into harness to see writing on wire but ASSUME its keyed power . Also I ran my horn on a botton switch so all you have to do is connect the switch inline and GROUND the other end of the wire. mine wiring harness is setup for one wire horn. Hope this helps
 
Thanks so much Cruiserjunkie!! I am in awe that you would volunteer to dismantle your dash to help a neophyte out. Got to get busy cutting and crimping. I will post back with results. Sincerely THANKS!!

William
 
OK this is what I was able to accomplish after homework, baths, etc. - Unfortunately, your color codes did not match up with mine Cruiserjunkie but I think I got close. Any comments on placement?

The 1 position is 3:00 with the white/black wire

1 position - connected to pull switch for lights (power to gage lights?)
2 position - connected to oil sender
3 position - open
4 position - power to gages
5 position - fuel sender
6 position - temp sender
7 position - high beam indicator (other end of wire still needs to find a home)
8 position - open
9 position - right blinker
10 position - open
11 position - left blinker
12 position - I don't know what to do with - it matches continuity with the one wire - lower indentations on blinder bulbs and both upper and lower indentations on gage lights - should I use this for ground?

Would I wire the other end of high beam indicator on the step button with the high beam light wire? This harness has a dimmer wire - I've been assuming that's to brighten and dim DASH lights and wasn't planning to incorporate it. Am I incorrect?

And I wired up the Amp meter per EZ's directions and added in the fusible link so I think I'm good to go there.

Thanks for your time and advice.

William
fj40 004.webp
fj40 003.webp
 
I think that is a later instrument cluster, as in about 80ish or newer, since it has the 50 amp ammeter.

that ammeter is not designed for the entire draw to pass through it. I think senses a voltage drop across a fuseable link(acting as a shunt resistor), thereby determining the amperage draw. I wouldnt hook the main power though it.
 
It is the color code of the wires that is important for figuring out what they do.

White with black stripe is always a ground wire. Hooking this up to a power source will typically blow a fuse.

Brett has a good point about later (79 and up) amp meters. They use the fusible link as an external shunt.
 
Damn! I looked on the front and it is a 50 amp meter. Now I'm back feeling like I'm struggling with elementary addition and y'all are talking advanced calculus. No one's color codes match my wires - can anyone tell me how it is wired by wire position?? I can switch the one position wire with the 12 positon and make the one position a ground - that would require just undoing the connector and moving it to the 12 wire. But now I have no idea how to wire in the damn amp meter - I did it the way EZ wire told me on the phone today but they didn't know I had a 50 amp meter. I've got an attachment I didn't use that seems to connect with the amp meter posts but the copper plating on the back panel is busted. I can take a close up of that if needed. Look at my original photo and you can see that plastic attachment.
 
What year plug connector is it? Most of the color codes stay the same over the years, but a few don't. I'm not sure about the gauge color codes, but most of the ones I have seen are the same over the years.

They are supposed to be:

Light blue/Red stripe = power input to meters.
Yellow/Black = oil pressure sender
Yellow = Water temp
Yellow/Red = fuel gauge sender
White/black = ground
Green/black = Left turn indicator
Green/yellow = Right turn indicator
Red/black = meter lights
Red/yellow = high beam indicator
Red/white = brake warning indicator


If they aren't these colors, then maybe someone has mixed they up or rewired the plug. In that case you have to power them up to find out what they do. Use a 9V transistor battery so you don't burn something up.
 
a number of toyota mid 70s-80s sedans used the plug that fits the cruiser cluster so that might be the source of your issues. Your missing either the temp sender or oil pressure sending yellow with corresponding stripe wire which is why I think you may have a car plug.

BTW for most all years, water temp was yellow with green stripe.

I dont think there should be a red with white going to your style meter since the brake warning light was on the dash by the choke cable knob... Your plug is probably all wrong. you need to not go by the plug and only by where the pins lead to on the PCB.
 
Thanks for the responses! I've got to get this back up to the front page :)

I'm going to play with the 9 volt battery tonight and post up pics if I can get anything to light up.

Since I guess my amp meter wiring is wrong - any help there on what to do? I haven't searched for a 1980's wiring diagram since I thought I was dealing with 1970 but I will look into that. My fusible link provided with the harness is only about 6 inches long. I'm bummed I cut that red solenoid wire in half per EZ technical person's recommendation and now it needs to be rewired.
 
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