Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build
- Thread starter Dusty
- Start date
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Those rocks make those 42s look puny.
Yep you need your buggy ; )
How did the 80 do?
Yep you need your buggy ; )
How did the 80 do?
- Thread starter
- #744
80 did great. now that i have no regard for her body, the 80 is unstopable. you can always power out if the drivetrain can handle it. the only thing holding her back is that big fat heavy (read HUGE) rear end.
a few more dents and ill need to cut her off behind the rear doors, loose the doors and heavy seats, simple cage, 44's, rear 3.5 tripple bypasses, propper 4 link the rear, etc.....
a few more dents and ill need to cut her off behind the rear doors, loose the doors and heavy seats, simple cage, 44's, rear 3.5 tripple bypasses, propper 4 link the rear, etc.....
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
80 buggy comming soon .. ! stay tunned !
The rear end can't be that heavy. Have you tried gutting the interior?
80s have a way of keeping on weight. They truly are Americanized ..
So a future buggy and a future 80 buggy eh?
I still like full bodied rigs, but when dented it just makes more sense to remove it than try ro fix it. Especially if you plan on really wheeling it.
Why do you think you need to "properly " 4 link rear. Something you need to redo?
I am asking because I am in the process of stretching and 4 linking my samurai.
so any info is appreciated
So a future buggy and a future 80 buggy eh?
I still like full bodied rigs, but when dented it just makes more sense to remove it than try ro fix it. Especially if you plan on really wheeling it.
Why do you think you need to "properly " 4 link rear. Something you need to redo?
I am asking because I am in the process of stretching and 4 linking my samurai.
so any info is appreciated
- Thread starter
- #748
i wont buggyfy the 80 yet. as long as the doors close and the glass is in she will remain whole. i love to wheel her in the snow and a buggy just sucks in wet or cold weather.
as far at the 4 link comment goes:
a LONG rear radius arm works great on the back of this truck as it would on the back of any truck. much better than leafs. with a long arm and good rubber joints you can have even a little more flex than the factory 80 series 5-link. however, when bumping the truck up a real steap waterfall the rearend has a tendancy to antisquat a little more than i like. i dont know if a propper 4 link or 5 link would make much difference. I could probably pull some of it out with better shock valving (read 2.5 tripple bypasses). i rarely wheeled the 80 this hard when i had the 37's and factory axles and so i cant make a good comparison.
that said, For those considering doing a radical modification to the 80 drivetrain like swapping in some one-tons...when i do an 80 (or 100) again i wont mess with the rear 5 link. just leave it alone. out of the box the rear of the 80 is damn near perfect and bombproof. reuse the geometry and the joints. you cant buy better joints than the oe yota joints. just weld some brackets on a cheap 14 bolt and bolt the factory links right back on
but lose the the front radius arms-they are holding you back
as far at the 4 link comment goes:
a LONG rear radius arm works great on the back of this truck as it would on the back of any truck. much better than leafs. with a long arm and good rubber joints you can have even a little more flex than the factory 80 series 5-link. however, when bumping the truck up a real steap waterfall the rearend has a tendancy to antisquat a little more than i like. i dont know if a propper 4 link or 5 link would make much difference. I could probably pull some of it out with better shock valving (read 2.5 tripple bypasses). i rarely wheeled the 80 this hard when i had the 37's and factory axles and so i cant make a good comparison.
that said, For those considering doing a radical modification to the 80 drivetrain like swapping in some one-tons...when i do an 80 (or 100) again i wont mess with the rear 5 link. just leave it alone. out of the box the rear of the 80 is damn near perfect and bombproof. reuse the geometry and the joints. you cant buy better joints than the oe yota joints. just weld some brackets on a cheap 14 bolt and bolt the factory links right back on
but lose the the front radius arms-they are holding you back
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
if got your comment correctly ...
1. front 3 link
2. rear radius or keep the 80 stock 5 link configuration
- Thread starter
- #750
That's good info Dusty! I will eventually get to one-tons but I have a lot that will happen to my rig first. It's nice to know that I'm not fordging ahead without some good insight!
I was gonna say, you'll blow up hubs, shear studs, break your pinion before you blow a 30 spline long up, Bobby doesn't put a lifetime warranty on his s*** because he loves giving it away.
minus the 44's, you'd better hurry up D, I already have some of my parts lined up and my Sawzall out
minus the 44's, you'd better hurry up D, I already have some of my parts lined up and my Sawzall out
Speaking of sawzall.. Check out what we did to one our member's 80
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ms-cottonland-cruisers/472143-half-ass-rebirth-land-cruiser.html
I see this in your future dusty as hard as you wheel yo 80
- Thread starter
- #756
exploded my ram line last month at big bear. hit a huge whoop going way to fast and bottomed out my bumps hard stuffing my ram into the trackbar mount which punched a hole in the ram line spraying tranny fluid everywhere. hadn't had the 80 off the trailer for more than 30 min when it happened. i need real 4" king bumps front and back
been spending all my extra energies on the new buggy. it will be something special. IFS front is coming along. Hope it works. this is not my fabrication work-i cant do this.
been spending all my extra energies on the new buggy. it will be something special. IFS front is coming along. Hope it works. this is not my fabrication work-i cant do this.
- Thread starter
- #759
hopefully
If we didnt get the front end geometry right the whole thing will truly be a wash. we only get a half inch max of plunge in the front with the components we are using. any more than 1/2"and the front end will fail. As in BOOM
