Yes, it is chipped. Unless you're planning to buy one of my rear PTOs, I wouldn't worry about it.
Build Hard Ways - Rigger's 1969 FJ40
- Thread starter Rigger
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Yes, it is chipped. Unless you're planning to buy one of my rear PTOs, I wouldn't worry about it.
Alfred, disregard what I wrote earlier; buy a radiator from @beno.
- Thread starter
- #143
Thanks Mark.
This t-case issue is more complicated than it should be.
I was thinking I could remove the PTO and put the cone on using the bolts that I had just removed. Simple as pie.
Wrong.
The bolts are too long for the cone. The cone is made of thin sheet metal. The PTO adapter sleeve is a thick casting.
So, I need different bolts.
I cleaned out the threaded holes in the t-case and worked the bolts in and out to make sure all is clear. That hole with the chip is difficult to get a bolt in to.
I tried my thread chaser but it seems to be a chaser for left hand threads!! (GROAN!)
Some parts of this truck are making me fight for every inch!
This t-case issue is more complicated than it should be.
I was thinking I could remove the PTO and put the cone on using the bolts that I had just removed. Simple as pie.
Wrong.
The bolts are too long for the cone. The cone is made of thin sheet metal. The PTO adapter sleeve is a thick casting.
So, I need different bolts.
I cleaned out the threaded holes in the t-case and worked the bolts in and out to make sure all is clear. That hole with the chip is difficult to get a bolt in to.
I tried my thread chaser but it seems to be a chaser for left hand threads!! (GROAN!)
Some parts of this truck are making me fight for every inch!
Redgrrr
I have a problem with 40s
Do you just need hardware from a stock case? I believe your talking about the rear output for the PTO? or are you talking about the front nose cone for the 4wd selector? I can pull the hardware from a Case in storage and send it with the SST knuckle tool I'm gonna loan/send you on Monday for your disk swap. If you call before noon tomorrow I can grab some hardware and put it in the box for you. I gotta run to my parts storage anyways so the earlier the better.
Those bolts are 91611-41020 it looks like, still available OEM cheap. I can make you a set in stainless if you'd rather go that route. PM me if so.
Disassembly is lookin good. Still in tear down mode as well, so appreciate all the detail.
I'll be back at it Monday and will respond sir. Thank you.
hope the trip went well.
- Thread starter
- #149
I've got a new radiator coming. Thanks @beno. Look at the housing in this pic. There's crud and sediment in the cooling system. Should I do some disassembly and try and clean that out? I hate the thought of clogging my new radiator with this crud, but I can't possibly clean it all out of all the passsges, either.
What say you?
What say you?
Thanks for your order 
Perfect, that is #2 and good quality Moly.
I have a 94 Chevy K2500 with a diesel motor. A little over a year ago I combined my very tired 6.5 with a 6.2. When I did this I didn't know how clean the bottom end of the 6.2 was, so I added a clear tube section, with filter screen, to my top radiator hose. The name of the company that sells this kit escapes my memory at the moment, but maybe this will jog somebody elses memory, or mine. I am a bit leary of plastic parts, but this has been in my pickup for about 1 1/2 years now with no problems. I will try to add a picture, however I haven't added a pic since before Mud changed their programming, and I definitely am far from up to date with today's technology.
Well, in the past few minutes I was able to figure out how to add a picture. I'm amazed at how easy it was compared to the old Mud program. Anyhow, here is the top radiator hose on my pickup with the clear tube and the filter screen inside it (barely visible in daylight because of the green color of the anti-freeze). All the coolant is run through that screen, catching all the junk that is in the coolant passages of the block. You can see the junk caught in the screen IF you are in daylight and look very carefully. As you can see there is a safety wire, included in the kit, that holds the two radiator clamps in place. The kit includes the tube, two clamps, the filter screen, and the safety wire.
I'm still drawing a blank on the name of the company, and have been unsuccessful doing a quick search through my notebooks. I know I saved the information, but put it in a very safe place. So safe I can't even find it. It is past my pumpkin hour, but I can guarantee you I will stay awake for a while trying to remember. Then when I do fall asleep I will have nightmares about my failing memory, only to awake in a dead sweat because of my failing memory. Zzzzzzzz.
Don
Amazing! I remembered during the night (as I was going to bed) that I had a second filter kit for a Nissan SD-22 motor I have. So I went out there this morning and got the info and some pics of the kit.
It is a Gano Filter, from ganofilters.com in Escondido CA. Sorry for the fuzzy pic. My little camera doesn't like close ups very well, and I wasn't going back outside to retake the pic. Here you can see the kit, with directions and clamps, and at the bottom of the bag you can see the plastic tube and filter. What can't be seen is the safety wire. You can also get some of these kits with aluminum tubes instead of plastic, but I chose the plastic because the filter screen is visible to the outside.
It is a Gano Filter, from ganofilters.com in Escondido CA. Sorry for the fuzzy pic. My little camera doesn't like close ups very well, and I wasn't going back outside to retake the pic. Here you can see the kit, with directions and clamps, and at the bottom of the bag you can see the plastic tube and filter. What can't be seen is the safety wire. You can also get some of these kits with aluminum tubes instead of plastic, but I chose the plastic because the filter screen is visible to the outside.