Hand Throttle installation 96 LC (1 Viewer)

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Nov 9, 2012
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Olathe, KS, USA
Possibly for the FAQ:

This week I installed the Toyota Hand Throttle in my 96 LC so I can keep the RPM up for winching, jump-starting, and in my immediate need, keeping the RPM up while allowing my LC to warm up and circulate distilled water for a coolant flush sitting in the driveway.

I purchased this kit:
GENUINE Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series Hand Throttle Kit OEM

He shipped right away and I had it within 5 days of ordering. There may be others out there, but on a quick search, I could not find it in NA or on partsouq. There's one vendor that claims to have them, but I will not risk doing business with them.

The part numbers included are:
78410-60090 Cable
78402-60030 Knob
90179-14032 Nut

1648152821589.png


This was literally a 15 minute bolt in, even with my "time adjustment" allowed for. (X2 and add 30)

Tools needed:
#2 Phillips screwdriver
6" Needle Nose Pliers
8" pliers
Headlight (for your head)

IMG_20220323_185215216 (Medium).jpg


My 96 already had the proper pedal assembly and bracket that has the attachment for the hand throttle.

IMG_20220323_193935807 (Medium).jpg


If yours does not, you may have to purchase a pedal assembly from a part-out, as I am not sure they are available as new.

Installation Steps:
1) Read EVERYTHING before doing ANYTHING!
2) I noticed that the "throw" of the cable assembly is only about 3/4". I was expecting a throw of about 3". The short throw is absolutely correct.
3) Take note of the current idle RPM of you engine prior to installation, when warmed up (should be about 650)
4) Remove the (4) Phillips head screws from the lower instrument panel finish. Note the length of the screw removed from each location in case they are different lengths.
5) Pop the top few pins from the lower instrument panel finish and gently pull the panel down away from the steering column. You do NOT need to unhook the hood and gas fill door cables.
6) Remove the black plug in the panel where the throttle cable will go by squeezing the two tabs on the back of the plug with your fingers. Be aware that when it comes out it pops out quickly and may ends up under the truck.

IMG_20220323_184215656 (Medium).jpg


7) Slide the cable assembly into the hole in the steel crash plate in the dash.

IMG_20220323_184422020_HDR (Medium).jpg
 
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8) insert the upper part of the cable into the hole now uncovered in the plastic lower instrument panel finish. This hole is flat on two sides. Place the cable assembly so the white strip on the cable assembly is to the TOP.

IMG_20220323_184457665_HDR (Medium).jpg


9) Screw the nut (90179-14032) onto the end of the cable assembly. NOTE: The nut had one side that is more square than the other side. Place it so the square side is TOWARDS the instrument panel. The rounded edge gives it a better finished look.

IMG_20220323_184431006 (Medium).jpg


10) Use the needle nose pliers to tighten the nut securely. You can insert the needle nose pliers into the slots on the nut and tighten it adequately by hand.
11) Insert the cable into the cutout on the pedal bracket with the translucent plastic clip on the FIREWALL side of the pedal arm. This plastic clip will lock the cable into the pedal arm to keep it from binding.
12) Align the plastic clip so the two "teeth" are square with the cutout in the pedal arm, one towards the top and one towards the bottom (slit on each side)
13) Pull on the CABLE (not the sheath) like you're trying to unhook a stuck fishing line from a river. Pull up at an angle and down at an angle until you hear and see the plastic clip pop into place in the pedal arm with both the top and bottom half of the plastic clip.

IMG_20220323_194025394 (Medium).jpg


14) Screw the brass screw all the way back (away) from the black plastic cap on the cable sheath assembly so the black plastic cap is at the end of the sheath.
15) Slide the black plastic cap assembly into the stationary pedal bracket with the groove into the slot on the bracket. This will place part of the black piece above and part below on the stationary pedal bracket. There is NOT an index or location specifically of this groove in the black plastic piece, but as you use the pliers in their outermost jaw opening to squeeze or push this piece into the bracket, you will hear and feel it snap in as it passes the tips of the cutout in the bracket.

IMG_20220323_193928929 (Medium).jpg


16) Slide the plastic lower instrument panel finish back into place and pop in the press in clips and posts.
17) Install the (4) Phillips head screws into the correct location they came from and tighten securely.
18) Install the knob onto the cable end with the word "LOCK" in the upright condition. The knob will snap into place on the cable.

IMG_20220323_194045070 (Medium).jpg


19) Your throttle cable assembly is now installed.
 
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20) Cable adjustment is made with the black plastic piece on the sheath that is made in two pieces. The upper piece has two ears on it that are designed to be GENTLY squeezed (with your fingers) and slid up the sheath assembly.

21) Screw the brass piece in toward the firewall until you cannot screw it in any further. It will start to interfere with the black plastic two-eared part.

22) The two-eared part has matching female teeth to mesh with the male teeth on the plastic piece that is pressed into the slot. This is the locking mechanism so the cable does not go out of adjustment randomly.

23) Adjust the cable position so that you IDLE speed on your engine has not increased.

24) You may need to adjust the black plastic two-eared cap multiple times in order to get your idle back to the pre-installation condition. In my case, it was as far down as I could set it.

25) Slide the two eared cap over the mating cap and it will lock into place and hold the cable settings.

IMG_20220323_193935807 (Medium).jpg


26) Start the truck and test the cable. Testing is done by pressing the accelerator pedal with your foot, then gently pulling on the Hand Throttle Cable (HTC) until you reach the desired RPM.

27) Gently twist the cable knob Clock Wise (CW) (to the right) to lock the cable into position. The first few times I did this, I thought I was going to twist off the knob because the groove had not been set yet. It gets slightly easier the more you do it. It is only about a 15° twist, so not very much.

28) Release the cable by twisting the knob back Counter Clock Wise (CCW) (to the left) until it frees up.

29) Push the cable in toward the dash and you should see and hear the RPM of the engine drop back to the level you choose.

30) Enjoy the fruits of your labor. You can now hold RPM for whatever you are trying to do, Just be wary of using it on the road, as it will hold the RPM and you may continue to go when you want to stop. This is NOT A TOY.

Lather, Rinse, Repeat.


Other References:

 
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FMC80

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Nice find and great write-up. I read at a 6th grade level so thank you for keeping me in mind. When I bought the hand throttle, some bits were available at PS and others I had to source from one of my go-to dealers. The link you provided is an easy one-stop shop.
 
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So, can you document the steps to do a full HG job? Not sure if mud has enough storage for the resulting document :lol:

Seriously though, great writeup for new folk that are tentative to jump into things.

And, for tech, I used my throttle just a few days ago to idle up the engine/alternator while co-winching a stuck fella in deep silt in death valley.

cheers,
george.
 
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So, can you document the steps to do a full HG job? Not sure if mud has enough storage for the resulting document :lol:

Seriously though, great writeup for new folk that are tentative to jump into things.

And, for tech, I used my throttle just a few days ago to idle up the engine/alternator while co-winching a stuck fella in deep silt in death valley.

cheers,
george.
I've written a few installation / troubleshooting manuals for industrial equipment.

Next time I'll make the pics smaller.....
 

flintknapper

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Heck of a write up. VERY well done.

And as concerns usage you presented the 'correct' way to do it:

pressing the accelerator pedal with your foot, then gently pulling on the Hand Throttle Cable (HTC) until you reach the desired RPM.

I know its known as a 'Hand Throttle' but it should really be thought of as a 'Throttle Lock'.

Handle it gently and it will last a long time.

Or at least mine has.

Hand Throttle_a.jpg
 
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Joined
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I'll need to rest up some before I finish reading the entire tome,
my brain hurts a little bit.:p


Actually a very good write up and timely.


So now's a good time to install the Hand Throttle cable that I bought ?10 years ago.
 
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mingles

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Awesome write up. Thank you!

I need to get off my butt and do this.
 

flintknapper

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This should be a 'sticky'........its that good.
 
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You will wonder why you waited so long after you are done. An excellent and easy addition.
This was WAAAAY easier than I thought it was going to be!

My install time even included taking the pics!
 
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Tucson AZ
I did this a few years back on my 93 using an alternative Toro mower cable from home depot for about $20. Had to rig a bicycle brake cable adjustment on the braket at the end of the cable. Also, 93's and maybe 94's dont have the cable end slot on the acceperator pedal rod where the cable attaches., I had to buy one of those Toyota Part No.: 78120-60080Rod Assy, Accelerator Pedal. It has an attachement for two cables. Bonus was it came with a new pedal pad. Cheers.
 

LINUS

Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
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I side-stepped going ‘whole hog’ - on dual batteries with a throttle lock.


And as mentioned, — it gets handy once you have one for tons of other times esp w/ a stock output alternator - wish I had one in the Tundra.
 
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As someone who saved a few bucks by using a Toro cable and Mickey Mousing the bicycle cable bits on the pedal end of things, I strongly recommend just using the Toyota parts if you want a hand throttle. Yes, mine works, and works well, but it was a PITA to get set up right, and working down in that area is difficult. And I'm not a big guy.
Good write up @BILT4ME, thanks for the contribution to Mud.
 

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