Haff Hawged

[scrapdaddy]

That door, is not too bad. Work with it. Looking at all your pictures again, you might start a new thing, Flatbed Pig! Weld up some stake pockets or d-rings for tie downs and it's ready.

 

[bigsal]

Nice work man! Original all the way. Only a "wee little guy" could sleep on that bed and only build a single cab though! I only say that cause I'm 6'5" and cringe at the thought of a single cab truck.

Can't wait to hear how it goes for work and such.

Just too cool!

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Yeah, it's tight. Makes me wonder if that other guy who used the galvi ever got to sit behind the wheel. I would stretch the frame and add a bit more cabin if I ever do it again.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

so far so good on the work platform. I need to get a brake and make the underbed boxes and finish the rackage, but I have no doubt it'll work out fine.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

well, she bites. At least she does with out the door edge trim in place I went and jumped into the cab last night to stow the demo hammer under the seat, and somehow forgot about the roof rail. 7 hours in the er and 5 staples at the very tip top of my mellon. just got in.....

 

[Fitzgerald]

Damn that sucks. 7 hours in the ER sounds like the worst part!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Ouch! I do it so much, my kids gave me a hardhat. Try to remember, your head is up there

 

[bobm]

LAMBCRUSHER, Hows your Head.

Thanks Bob.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

thanks for askin...its sore in some places and dumb in others.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I figure the cruiser had to get even with me on the slice job. Fair enough. Now that we have found some sort of balance.....I got a used booster nad master from an 86 4runner and bolted it up today. GOOD SWAP. VERY simple. cut off 3/8" from pedal side push rod, bolt on bend lines to fit. I used the little valve at the bottom of the pigs factory 77 booster master assembly(prop valve?) Kept it super simple, and it stops NOW- a half second ago, instead of 12 from now. So far, so good. I still have to finish the drivers door, but I really like rollin with the wind as it were. I do have the passenger door and window on. I'm thinking about re-doing the rear hoop dealio, using all 1 1/4" schedule 40 uncoated. no pics that you haven't seen a thousand of already, except maybe the tools piling onto the bed

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Couple things I would do differently if I could do it again. Not going to go into those details, as Jay once told me(and I give him full respect)some things should not be publicly admitted to. But if anyone wants to know, PM me, and maybe it can save you some eyeball scratching

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

cut the rear hoop out.....going for something a bit more....conventional? after about 2000 miles on it the way it was as you last saw it, I DO like it, it works well. I do have a bit of paint fume tho from the heat from the trans/transfer/and exhaust, and it has kept me from even thinking about finishing the drivers door. that and the heatwave. MUST do a/c somehow. The rear window is at too steep an angle(straight up) and gives off a slight reflection from the windshield when looking in the mirror, but also somehow dims the rear view a tad which is nice for now.....the window seals are doing their job, and the only squeeky rattley that I hear is coming from the bed and a bit from the passenger door linkages. I am going to have to insulate it, figure out what to do about the drivetrain cooking the paint, finish the drivers door and mount it, and get a clue on the rack/bed finish.....Bob is right, steel would have been the way to go on the deck as it would have tied EVERYTHING together and I'm guessing help eliminate some flex(I don't get much, but the is some)

 

[bogus one]

Dude, that's sweet

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Thank you! I am mulling over how I'm going to twist up this reclaimed 1" schedule 40 for the rest of the bed cage. I might wait and go 1 1/4" My bender die isn't tight enough in a couple places for the 1 1/4", that may be the determining factor. And I have also been thinking about the frame mounted slider steps that will tie into the hoop on the bed(via a pin and bolt(s)).

 

[scrapdaddy]

The good things about wood, is your tools don't slide around and if you ever get tired of it, you don't lose much money. You can always weld up a steel one.

Can't wait to see what you come up with, for the cage.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I love ammo cans.....

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

some more on the bed....there will be an additional upright to the diagonal bracing and a spreader across each side. I will do a couple of pieces of unistrut across the horizontal runs of the braces above the tool box to make a sort of shelf above the tool box, and an over the cab cantilevered basket. I have also figured out the ammo can receivers that will mount under the bed before the tire. Each rack will receive the lid of 2 50 cal cans, facing outward from the bedrail. I want to do hood latches concealed at the rear of the ammo cans and an invisible release. Having the cans be received rather than mounted will allow me to take which ever can I need to where ever it is needed. I got 2 81 mil mortar boxes that will mount permanently in a horizontal plain under the bed behind the tire facing out the rear bumper. This will require cutting out my diagonals and lights from the rear skirt. I plan to weld the lid of the can to the bed skirt via some sort of hinge and install the 2 X 4 inch oval grommet mount lights in the lids. Add a couple of thin material trays to slide into the cans, and BAM. anyway, that's the plan.

 

[bobm]

LAMBCRUSHER, looking good. WATCH YOUR HEAD. Just kidding.

Thanks Bob.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I'm going to outfit her w/ a matching pair of tanker helmets Thanks for the headsup!

 

[scrapdaddy]

I'm not following all the ammo can stuff, but I get confused, pretty easy. I'll wait for the pictures . Funny, I just ordered some ammo cans and brackets from a guy on Steel Soldiers.