H42 four speed manual transmission into 1992 FJ80

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Matt, is your exhaust bolted to your frame in that pic? If so... I'm not surprised if you're getting alot of vibes... or worse a cracked exhaust header being so close.
 
I'm going cross-eyed that's all... i needed my 3D glasses. i see now. The clip in front of the cat is dangling... it almost looked welded or somehting to the body mount brace...
 
I'm going cross-eyed that's all... i needed my 3D glasses. i see now. The clip in front of the cat is dangling... it almost looked welded or somehting to the body mount brace...

that was connected to the front of the auto somehow - I remember disconnecting it when I pulled the auto but don't remember exactly where it went. I guess I need to pull that clip off.
 
Ok guys got some questions on this subject. I have a 70k 2f sitting here that I am going to stick a rebuilt 3fe head on and put in my 92. I am wanting to stick a 4 speed and a doubler behind it and I am wondering what would be cheaper a H42/marlin adapter to toybox/marlin adapter to splitcase or advanced adapters kit for np465/np203/adapter to splitcase? Does anyone know the exact cost of marlins adapters?
 
I have been reading about the sm465 and 203 - that might be cheaper. I think you can bolt that right up to the 2f if you use an older 3 speed bellhousing. I could be wrong about that. I like the spacing of the gears with the h42 - I'm not sure I would want the granny first with the sm465.
 
I am studying this thread. I think an entire 2H + H55F powertrain will be an easier swap than this one was. I am curious about the shifter position, and if the 5-speed + 60-series transfercase shifter (not the 62's, but the fully manual one from a 60), will end up in a better, more aft position...

The clutch pedal provision has me nervous...
 
I am studying this thread. I think an entire 2H + H55F powertrain will be an easier swap than this one was. I am curious about the shifter position, and if the 5-speed + 60-series transfercase shifter (not the 62's, but the fully manual one from a 60), will end up in a better, more aft position...

The clutch pedal provision has me nervous...

Stone did a 12H-T (I think that is the right engine code) into his 80. I think he had a thread on it somewhere.

The clutch pedal should be sourceable from Japan4x4 or possibly Tapage.
 
I think an entire 2H + H55F powertrain will be an easier swap than this one was.

Then damn a preschooler should be able to do what you say... cause according to matt this tranny swap was cake.
Engine swaps are a PITA... too much harness crap to fret over... Plus an H55F will NOT be easier on your wallet

I drove this truck on Wednesday night... Friggin' wow! it's one cool machine...
 
I am studying this thread. I think an entire 2H + H55F powertrain will be an easier swap than this one was. I am curious about the shifter position, and if the 5-speed + 60-series transfercase shifter (not the 62's, but the fully manual one from a 60), will end up in a better, more aft position...

The clutch pedal provision has me nervous...

As far as bolting it in, it might be easier assuming the engine mounts are in the right place. Removing the a440 was one of the hardest parts of the job.

I used a later h42 and transfercase from a 60 - so the transmission is the same length as the h55. The shifters should be exactly where mine are.

I wouldn't worry about the clutch pedal. Tapage mentioned he could get one, $OR has them, and I would make one for you for cheap, just send me a PM if you want to go that route and we can talk about it. Or I could just scan in the template and you could DIY.

Then damn a preschooler should be able to do what you say... cause according to matt this tranny swap was cake.
Engine swaps are a PITA... too much harness crap to fret over... Plus an H55F will NOT be easier on your wallet

I drove this truck on Wednesday night... Friggin' wow! it's one cool machine...

Thanks eric. I think you are right that the wiring would be the hardest part. The speedo is mechanical, it comes directly off the tc. I don't know about the tach and all of that.
 
MAN do I have some seriously conflicting information...

According to several sources, the curb weight of an FJ62 is 4,480 lbs., whereas an FJ80 (not an FZJ80), is 4,595 lbs. Just 115 pounds heavier. One small woman in the vehicle makes the difference. Is this correct?

According to one very reliable and trust-worthy source (and vendor), the 2H would be grossly underpowered for an 80 (though some feel that's true for the HJ60 too). The same individual, thinks turboing a 2H is a sin, because according to him, it will overheat, coke up and the rings will crack, even if intercooled. No piston-skirt cooling...

So, I think the question then is whether a naturally-aspirated 2H will be REALLY dogged down in an 80 more so than a 60/62. Only the weight plays a factor (assuming the identical gearing and transmission). So... If the weight difference between these two vehicles is as little as these numbers indicate, it is a non-issue, afaiac. And if so, I'll seriously consider this, even if it is a bigger job than just a 60/62 body swap.

Since the FJ80 and FJ62 wiring harnesses are nearly identical under the hood, I can easily duplicate what was done to my 62 harness on an 80's. I already have the 2H + H55F powertrain, so the powertrain expense is a non-issue. I can get into a VERY clean 80, with third row seats for less than $5,000. I'm looking at several right now...

The issue of the 5-speed shifter hitting the dash should be no different than what the H42 presented.
I assume either transfercase would be fine (the 80's, or the 60's). I assume an 80 transfercase would work, since an 80's transmission is identical to a 62's, or I could possibly use the manual transfercase from an '85 60, which is what's on this powertrain now (though I never did fully resolve the leak issue).

NOBODY has thrown a this powertrain into an 80? C'mon, somebody must have...
 
As far as bolting it in, it might be easier assuming the engine mounts are in the right place. Removing the a440 was one of the hardest parts of the job.

I used a later h42 and transfercase from a 60 - so the transmission is the same length as the h55. The shifters should be exactly where mine are.

I wouldn't worry about the clutch pedal. Tapage mentioned he could get one, $OR has them, and I would make one for you for cheap, just send me a PM if you want to go that route and we can talk about it. Or I could just scan in the template and you could DIY.



Thanks eric. I think you are right that the wiring would be the hardest part. The speedo is mechanical, it comes directly off the tc. I don't know about the tach and all of that.

THANKS! The motor mounts should be indentical to the 62. Speedo is the same, at least on an FJ80, not sure about the FZJ80.

Mods necessary (other than what I just mentioned):
Driveshafts. OK...

Fuel tank
? Doubt it, I don't see an issue putting diesel (or biodiesel) into a gasoline tank, so long as there's a diesel on the other end of the fuel lines. ;) The fuel pump is not in the tank, but under the hood, so OK there...

Filler neck? The gassers have an insert so that only the nozzle from a gas pump will fit in there, whereas the diesel one does not, to allow for the fatter diesel nozzle... Can be modified, if necessary, or a diesel filler neck form an HDJ81 can be purchased...

I can get the glow dash light from an HDJ81. The tach may be wrong (it goes to 5K in a 62, but only 4K in an HJ60), and may be geared differently. Aftermarket may be the only option there...

Radiator should be OK, but maybe not...
 
Tofudebeest having a 2H-TI for more than 4 years ( or 5 not sure at this point ) pushing in it 14 PSI I would said .. yes .. you can manage to overheat it if you want ..

Right now I'm with all diesel that my IP can push in my engine .. there are other several ways to control it or to enjoy it if you know your truck ..
 
I know that there are (or have been) thousands of 2H motors with various aftermarket turbo set-ups. I just wonder, truthfully, how many of them died prematurely because of it...

Seems like every third or fourth HJ60 in Australia or New Zealand is turboed.

Having been in Panama for a summer, I suppose you do not cruise at highway speeds for long, right? Especially not with those massive meats...
I travel a bit, and need to be able to go 65-70 mph (105-112 kph), for a few hours, with short stops. If that speed will make considerably more heat if I am turboed, it will not be wise.
 
Having been in Panama for a summer, I suppose you do not cruise at highway speeds for long, right? Especially not with those massive meats...
I travel a bit, and need to be able to go 65-70 mph (105-112 kph), for a few hours, with short stops. If that speed will make considerably more heat if I am turboed, it will not be wise.

Speed limit it's 100km/h ( 60 mph ) for us in most of the open roads .. ( hard to call 'em HW ) and I can drive all way long of Panamá territory even with mountain cross without problems ..

If I want to make my Tencha faster .. then you will have to watch your water temp .. as I do, but still you can control it .. actually Cruising at 60 - 65 mph I oonly see 4 - 6 PSI of boost ..

As I said it's more how much diesel you put than how fast you want to drive ..

here is the late ( left ) and early version of the center console

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and a pic of the pedal in my inner firewall ..

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So radically different than the 60 and 62 here. Both the console and the pedal bucket...

So odd...

OK, I see from the other thread that those are for an 80, to convert to manual. :whoops:
 
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The a440f in the 80 has a different output than the one in the 62. I would use the manual case from the 60 that you already have. just rebuild it while it is out.

I wouldn't think there would be that much of a power difference b/t the 80 and the 60 with the same drive train. My truck was a dog with the 3fe, stock gears and 35's. With just the manual swap it has more than enough power for me. The h55 would be even better and you could also run 33's which would help even more. The part time transfer case probably helps a little with that too.
 
I'm curious and was wondering if it would be possible to use an R151 instead of an H42/55? My reasoning is that Toyota switched to the H151 and R151 for the 80 series which is why I *believe* the shift lever is so close to the dash using an H42/55. Also the R151 is readily available in the US. Sorry if this has been asked and answered but I haven't read the entire thread.
 
This is all very interesting. I wonder if there is a spacer possible. I guess modifying the shifters is the easiest way to go.
 

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