GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread

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Ok, I just finished the VB replacement and a few other things, its 1:30am so i will test it tomorrow I just filled the tranny by manual, I have the p2714, p0894 as permanent and I can delete them, tomorrow I will try with techstream or driving the car.

im dealing with another problem too, rough idle, I tried tow batteries (from 2023 corolla and another 23 lexus gx) and are draining pretty fast at idle. No codes, no lights, testing disconnecting negative from battery and sometimes die, sometimes don't. Im thinking is the alternator but I will do more test tomorrow
 
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Hey y'all, hopefully this is the right thread.

I need to figure out a fix for a plastic bracket that broke on the small body panel piece between the rear quarter panel and the bumper. It's the plastic piece that is below the tail light and wraps around to just the midway point of the rear wheel well.

In the rear well, it's held in place by a torx bold. There are a few plastic brackets and nubs along the way and on the inside of the rear hatch are two plastic "bolts".

One of those brackets on the inside is broken. I tried a JB Weld plastic glue to put it back together, but that doesn't seem to be doing the trick.

Any ideas on how to fix this?


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Flexible bumpers are usually polypropylene plastic, which is resistant to solvents and glues and overall very non-sticky. So they usually need to be fixed via plastic welding (more or less using a soldering iron with a plastic tip and a polypropylene plastic filler rod). I'd double-check that the bumper is indeed polypropylene, and if it is plastic weld it.
 
Schwooby said:
Hey y'all, hopefully this is the right thread.
I need to figure out a fix for a plastic bracket that broke on the small body panel piece between the rear quarter panel and the bumper. It's the plastic piece that is below the tail light and wraps around to just the midway point of the rear wheel well.
In the rear well, it's held in place by a torx bold. There are a few plastic brackets and nubs along the way and on the inside of the rear hatch are two plastic "bolts".
One of those brackets on the inside is broken. I tried a JB Weld plastic glue to put it back together, but that doesn't seem to be doing the trick.
Any ideas on how to fix this?
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This may be a reach depending upon your abilities.
As most of this forum knows, I'm into 3D printing, with one FDM printer and two resin printers. That being said, my wife's glasses recently broke at the temple, where the hinge is and she hasn't had time to make an appointment for a new pair.
I tried cyanoacrylate (super glue) and as I suspected, it didn't hold. What I did do, and has held up great so far is "weld" the two parts together.
What you'll need:
  1. A soldering iron of some type.
  2. Several inches (6" or more) of PETG filament, preferably either clear or a color that is close to what you need.
Process:
  1. DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA! Outside maybe??
  2. With the soldering iron, have the two pieces of plastic held together.
  3. Then with the soldering iron, start melting and mixing them.
  4. At that point, literally start to weld (melt) the PETG onto/into the where it broke and the other part, ensuring you're getting both plastics (PETG and what you're welding) molten and mixing together.
  5. With the soldering iron, then smooth out the welded joint as needed for fit and form.
  6. Let cool a few minutes.
Or you can get one of those 3D doodle pens pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/SCRIB3D-P1-Printing-Pen-Display/dp/B08HM4133L/?tag=ihco-20
That will hold better than any glue.
Hope this helps.
 
2 days of testing the gx after valve body replaced, accumulator orings, the tube seals, 3 ring seals, sonnax C1 accumulator with oring. More than 120 miles of testing everything is good, still the codes as permanent but I read that after a few cycles without problems, they will show as history and can be delete it.

Put brand new battery and the other problems are gone. Tomorrow Im driving it to hilton head island and lets see.
 
Report from today, with the car in cold I felt like erratic shifting between 2nd and 3rd or 3rd to 4th, I will see if with the techstream or autel I can do a relearning or something like that. Also I have to do a lot of maintenance on this, 8 months parked.

Lets pray.
 
I went to the car wash today. Afterwards, I noticed some water in the slit for the third row seat belt. Trying to figure out where that leak would originate. Any suggestions?
Maybe from where the roof rack is attached?
 
depooltrd said:
Erratic shifting between 3rd to 4th, now is not shifting from 3rd to 4th at all. I think its time for a new transmission.
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How does it shift when manually shifting?
 
r2m said:
How does it shift when manually shifting?
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Wasn't shifting even manually, in the evening worked as normal, this morning is working as normal. I will keep driving for about 2 weeks to see if after I deleted the memory, the ect starts learning the new values.
 
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depooltrd said:
Wasn't shifting even manually, in the evening worked as normal, this morning is working as normal. I will keep driving for about 2 weeks to see if after I deleted the memory, the ect starts learning the new values.
Click to expand...
🤞
 
My update is that I put in another remanufactured unit (after the first one didn't seem to work, could have been my fault) and all is working well. No codes, reverse on demand (even when cold out), & no slipping.

I also had put in an aftermarket transmission cooler 10"H×10"W×2"D and bypassed the transmission thermostat (pinned open).

Hoping this one lasts me 20 years.

*Make sure your spline coupler (connects transfer case input shaft to trans output shaft) transfers over and that you didn't crack it like I did:
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Im having a Christmas tree ondas boars. 4lo flashing, tc light and cel on, delayed reverse in cold and sometimes 3rd to 4th gear not working.
Also I saw this post on Facebook. My question is, could be the transfers case the whole problem? Imhard to believe that but at this point.

Screenshot_20260403_160401_Facebook.webp
 
IMO... highly unlikely..

The simultaneous leak of the valley plate and attached coolant pipe at the same time..highly suspect diagnosis ..IMO
 
depooltrd said:
No no, he said in the comments the transfer case... i was like 😫😫😫
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I’ve owned 2 4th gen 4Runners, Tundra, Highlander and our current 2011 Lexus GX460. I’ve had 2 transfer case issues and one rear differential issue. The GX460 issue on this thread is totally different than all on engine codes, noise, function and what the parts are for. The transfer case issues usually stem from a small leak but majority of them are from the newer electronic transfer case switches for 2WD-4HI-4LO and you def know when that’s the issue. 😬 The car won’t go into one of those settings or worse, gets stuck in 4LO. The transfer case issues usually not for shifting between gears, but the 2WD-4HI-4LO settings. Regardless, the GX460 is 4HI all the time and can be shifted into 4LO.

Hope that helps clarify. In my last 3 years of putting this thread together, exhaustive searches and hearing from others we never seen transfer case come up.

Only other theories are tied to electrical with where some wires are in the driver’s side floorboard that can rust, other connections in the transmission, the ECU programming, speed sensors, etc. All the rest are fluid Mnt, levels of fluid, and the transmission parts.

What kills me is how great are vehicle is once the fluid is warm as it shifts totally fine. My guess is it expands and the parts in the transmission that reduces leaks or pressure. Wish I knew though…
 
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