GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread

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I still have a snow speeder, AT-AT, and who knows what else related to that movie in storage... think I have most playsets and figures... unfortunately not in unopened packaging for the real $$$

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I am lazy. I wired my compressor switch wire to my fog lights since I deleted them.

The compressor just blew my air swivel apart. 😂

Going to put a new section of hose in thats rated to 300 psi.
 
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So something isnt right.

Truck wouldnt start. Disconnected accesories and went in to grab my phone to pull codes. When i came back out I was unable to see any codes so I started it and it started right away.

Probably need to put the air compressor on the other side of my isolator.

I could hear something with a high frequency hum.

My gut is it wasnt getting sufficient fuel and the hum was a grumpy fuel pump, but thats not data point driven.
 
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I am lazy. I wired my compressor switch wire to my fog lights since I deleted them.

The compressor just blew my air swivel apart. 😂

Going to put a new section of hose in thats rated to 300 psi.
Twice I've blown out (the cheapy ARB orange) air hoses, not from pressure alone, but also from the hose/quick release on the compressor getting too hot when I'm airing up all four tires with my manifold inflation system. The compressor will run for 10 - 20 minutes, depending upon how much I had aired down. I have since purchased and always keep with me a 6 foot length of 300 psi heavy hose that I attache to the compressor AND THEN attach my air lines.
This what I use:
 
Twice I've blown out (the cheapy ARB orange) air hoses, not from pressure alone, but also from the hose/quick release on the compressor getting too hot when I'm airing up all four tires with my manifold inflation system. The compressor will run for 10 - 20 minutes, depending upon how much I had aired down. I have since purchased and always keep with me a 6 foot length of 300 psi heavy hose that I attache to the compressor AND THEN attach my air lines.
This what I use:
Yup, I put a 300 psi line on it.

I am going to get a lower pressure switch, though. Which should also help reduce wear and tear
 
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Yup, I put a 300 psi line on it.

I am going to get a lower pressure switch, though. Which should also help reduce wear and tear
I have a ~20" Viair braided SS line leading off the compressor to a ~12" Continental rubber line, and then have a QC chuck. The 24" SS line is really for heat transfer (letting the compressor heat dissipate), the Continental rubber line then acts as an insulator keeps heat from transferring from the SS line to the QC chuck. After that, I have a cheapo coiled 1/4" HF nylon hose that has worked fine for several years. I'm running the stock ARB pressure switch which is 160 psi. The chuck has always been cool after inflating things.

Prior to this setup I had a Smittybilt with the QC on the compressor. It melted my first HF cheapo hose inflating a swimming floatie.
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It’s unofficial!
I know this is sattire but in reality its not far from the truth. Actually, California and its residents do some seriously retarted things that affect the rest of the U.S. and even the entire world. For example, and related to our trucks, senate bill 346 effectively eliminated copper in brake pads. Annnnd because Toyota has a large warehouse in the state, and logistically it doesnt make sense to split inventories, out east we effectively have had our brake pads banned as well. Sorry for the rant, just fed up with the nonsense.

FYI can still find some old stock floating around, buy it up while you can, and get your brake on!

P.S. Copper sulfate is used all over directly in water to control algae.

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I know this is sattire but in reality its not far from the truth. Actually, California and its residents do some seriously retarted things that affect the rest of the U.S. and even the entire world. For example, and related to our trucks, senate bill 346 effectively eliminated copper in brake pads. Annnnd because Toyota has a large warehouse in the state, and logistically it doesnt make sense to split inventories, out east we effectively have had our brake pads banned as well. Sorry for the rant, just fed up with the nonsense.

FYI can still find some old stock floating around, buy it up while you can, and get your brake on!

P.S. Copper sulfate is used all over directly in water to control algae.

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Please don't corral me in with the rest of the states mentally challenged... If I had the same low I.Q. as the rest of the state, I'd be posting in the Prius forum and burning this GX forum! :p
 
Please don't corral me in with the rest of the states mentally challenged... If I had the same low I.Q. as the rest of the state, I'd be posting in the Prius forum and burning this GX forum! :p
Haha, but you have to understand our perspective. We see and feel the effects, and then we see the people that are fleeing the state that are supposedly "different". It's easier and more logical to group yall all together ; I get it, theres some good people out there. My previous boss is from SF. Best dude EVER, couldn't ask for a nicer person or better manager.
 
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So, looking up Unicorn Blood by the part number on Toyota parts website and it’s not popping up. WHERE IS IT?? And the one that does show is Transfer Gear Oil 75w Ll not Lf.
 
And if I click “by again” from my previous order it just shoots to the top of the page. The other products I bought that aren’t shown in this photo do go to the that product when clicked.
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There is a lot of back-and-forth in the other forum sections on the 75W fluid. Apparently Toyota discontinued the old version and now sells a new one. IMO....just run Delvac 75W90 in it and it will be fine :). If you still want a 75W fluid there are a number of other aftermarket options that are about 2-3X the cost of Delvac but 1/2 the cost of the OEM Toyota fluid.

I suspect the only reason 75W fluid exists is so Toyota can eek out another 0.03 MPG on their CAFE averages. The GX470 with a very similar transfer case was spec'd with 75W90 from the factory. None of the GX rigs or really any other Toyotas have TC problems, so IMO they are not sensitive to fluid types.
 
I wonder if the 75w for the manual transmission is interchangeable, it seems to be that way with Ravenol. When I looked up 08885-81080 it took me to the Mt Go Lv 75W.
 
Does anyone just run the same fluid in their TC, rear and front diffs?
 
For hypoid applications just run a decent GL-5 fluid of the appropriate viscosity. No need to go wasting money on the high dollar Toyota stuff. As long as the fluid contains the necessary sacrificial sulfur compounds that interact between the mating tooth faces, then you're good. Ive been running the Delo EP-5 80w-90 for awhile now because its cheap from local bulk supplier. Works great. For specialty type fluids, RedLine makes some good stuff. If I wasnt able to locally source bulk GL-4 for my manuals, older T cases, and winches, then I would be using Redline in all of those.

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