GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread

[Hiluxforever]

I went with a CSF to avoid a radiator fiasco, which is also available for the 460 now. Granted, what appeared to be the original OEM Toyota/Denso was still fine at 191K! Can't imagine it would have lasted much longer.

I'd absolutely buy a GX460 if my GX was totalled, but would be quite diligent about cooling system and transmission fluid maintenance. One secret to the 470 being more reliable may well be the 100K T-belt intervals, as the cooling system also gets flushed and anything visibly worn is replaced at the same time. I've always liked T-belt motors more than T-chain motors for that (among other) reasons.

Growing up with Hondas I hate timing belts. That's a hard no for any powertrain.

When I got stuck with the O'Reilly radiator I was moving. The only thing available was that. Both the CSF and OEM had over a month of lead time.

If I had just done the radiator at 100k everything would have been fine. Thats what I would recommend for anyone since the oem ones die soon after that.

Next rig will have a 3RZ or 2TR. This just seals it.

 

[Rednexus]

Growing up with Hondas I hate timing belts. That's a hard no for any powertrain.

I've done a couple of belt changes for a Subaru EJ25 and one for a 2UZ-FE. Pricey if done by a shop, but either the EJ/2UZ can be DIY'd in a day for around $500 in name-brand parts. My UZ will be up for another T-belt in 35K more miles, which will be after ~8 years of ownership. I've also had timing chain failures in two vehicles as well, whereas the belts have been quieter/more reliable (and anecdotally, they seem to rev quicker).

Toyota chains do appear to be quite reliable. I'm not sure how the guides are set up on a 1UR but it seems like plastic guides wear out/fail on other chain-driven engines all the time.

 

[WTITW]

LS 1URs are about 2k.

Speaking of LS…



Its an option

 

[Hiluxforever]

I've done a couple of belt changes for a Subaru EJ25 and one for a 2UZ-FE. Pricey if done by a shop, but either the EJ/2UZ can be DIY'd in a day for around $500 in name-brand parts. My UZ will be up for another T-belt in 35K more miles, which will be after ~8 years of ownership. I've also had timing chain failures in two vehicles as well, whereas the belts have been quieter/more reliable (and anecdotally, they seem to rev quicker).

Toyota chains do appear to be quite reliable. I'm not sure how the guides are set up on a 1UR but it seems like plastic guides wear out/fail on other chain-driven engines all the time.

When I did my timing cover they told me it was good for the life of the motor. I more or less believe that. Material science is pretty amazing anymore.

 

[Acrad]

Water pump on my ‘12 started leaking at around 38k miles but was fixed under powertrain warranty many years back. I don’t think extended coolant change intervals do any engine a favor.

 

[Hiluxforever]

Water pump on my ‘12 started leaking at around 38k miles but was fixed under powertrain warranty many years back. I don’t think extended coolant change intervals do any engine a favor.

Yea. Agree. Its corrosive.

 

[GrizzlyClint]

Next rig will have a 3RZ or 2TR. This just seals it.

So you're going with a Taco?

 

[Hiluxforever]

So you're going with a Taco?

In addition to the GX as a more extreme build. Find one a s*** load of miles that has a great service history. 4 cylinder 5 speed, with a second transfer case doubler section. Either have it SAS'd or do a RCLT with a JD fabrication LCA mount. Needs to run at least 37s, ideally 40s.

There are some obstacles I want to conquer that there is just no way to so with a GX without serious body damage.

I have also yet to see someone who went with a tire bigger than a 34 on a GX that didnt lament about it later. So figured keep the GX for what its good at the 5 and 6 advanced trails and build a Taco truggy for the crazy stuff like the rock quarry at the end of Moody Hill.

 

[Rednexus]

Water pump on my ‘12 started leaking at around 38k miles but was fixed under powertrain warranty many years back. I don’t think extended coolant change intervals do any engine a favor.

I change coolant at 50K. Interestingly, the Toyota Pink coolant is about the same price as aftermarket coolant. It's the only Toyota fluid I use in my rig.

 

[Cold Iron]

I change coolant at 50K. Interestingly, the Toyota Pink coolant is about the same price as aftermarket coolant. It's the only Toyota fluid I use in my rig.

I changed mine, along with all my fluids, at 50K. On another site when I said that I did someone asked me if I had checked the ph and why I changed it. I didn't bother wasting my time replying. In the 70's it was common to do a full waterside replacement on engines at 50K. Used to be able to purchase a full waterside kit with radiator, water pump, etc. for most engines. Many of those that had money figured it was time to trade in for a new vehicle at 50K. New coolant is cheap insurance IMO.

 

[Rednexus]

I changed mine, along with all my fluids, at 50K. On another site when I said that I did someone asked me if I had checked the ph and why I changed it. I didn't bother wasting my time replying. In the 70's it was common to do a full waterside replacement on engines at 50K. Used to be able to purchase a full waterside kit with radiator, water pump, etc. for most engines. Many of those that had money figured it was time to trade in for a new vehicle at 50K. New coolant is cheap insurance IMO.

I actually did check my pH with around 40K on the coolant and it was right at 7. Although I'm not a chemist, pH is just one property of the coolant, presumably there are others that can affect it's performance. It's quite easy to fully drain a UZ by removing the lower radiator hose and opening the petcocks on the side of the block, and the cooling system doesn't seem prone to trapping bubbles at refill time either. That being said, it is SUPER easy to refill with zero bubbles if you a vacuum fill kit .

 

[r2m]

In addition to the GX as a more extreme build. Find one a s*** load of miles that has a great service history. 4 cylinder 5 speed, with a second transfer case doubler section. Either have it SAS'd or do a RCLT with a JD fabrication LCA mount. Needs to run at least 37s, ideally 40s.

There are some obstacles I want to conquer that there is just no way to so with a GX without serious body damage.

I have also yet to see someone who went with a tire bigger than a 34 on a GX that didnt lament about it later. So figured keep the GX for what its good at the 5 and 6 advanced trails and build a Taco truggy for the crazy stuff like the rock quarry at the end of Moody Hill.

If you want to go really hard core, get something pre-Taco, one of the early Toyota pickups (before labeling them Tacoma) with a straight axle, 1985 or earlier.

 

[GrizzlyClint]

I changed mine, along with all my fluids, at 50K. On another site when I said that I did someone asked me if I had checked the ph and why I changed it. I didn't bother wasting my time replying. In the 70's it was common to do a full waterside replacement on engines at 50K. Used to be able to purchase a full waterside kit with radiator, water pump, etc. for most engines. Many of those that had money figured it was time to trade in for a new vehicle at 50K. New coolant is cheap insurance IMO.

I get my pH checked. I'm hyper vigilant with my maintenance. I'll be doing a trans drain and fill soon when I get my next oil change. I need this to literally last as long as humanly possible or at least until the rust takes it over at some point in a decade or two.

 

[Hiluxforever]

If you want to go really hard core, get something pre-Taco, one of the early Toyota pickups (before labeling them Tacoma) with a straight axle, 1985 or earlier.

I thought about it, but I figure its less work to SAS a Taco then sort the suspension on a solid axle hilux. You basically have to cut everything off and change all the mounts so SASing a 4 banger taco isnt too much more complicated.

Also, tacomas are way more civilized inside than a hilux.

At the end of the day, that project if probably at least 18 months out, so much can change.

 

[Cold Iron]

I get my pH checked. I'm hyper vigilant with my maintenance. I'll be doing a trans drain and fill soon when I get my next oil change. I need this to literally last as long as humanly possible or at least until the rust takes it over at some point in a decade or two.

I'm not too worried about rust winning the battle, had NHOU oil sprayed inside body cavities as soon as I got it and wool wax on the frame and undercarriage this year. First 4 years it spent winters in Texas one of the reasons I bought it. So far looks like winning the battle although fighting rust on steel ships in salt water and air with 100°+ temps for 20 years not sure it is a battle you ever win. But can keep it in check. Have a heated garage but park it outside even in the winter as heat is a catalyst for rust. Below zero rust doesn't develop, cold hurts the bones as I get older but need to keep the bones on the GX intact.

Yeah I have a ph test kit for various reasons but at 50K knowing the coolant has never been changed don't care what the ph is time to change it. The plan right now is to keep mine until I kick the bucket so I'm a bit anal about maintenance. Working in the engine room of ships I'm used to PMS, planned maintenance system. I have a google docs named GX PMS and repair that I work from. Along with part numbers and intervals, it is 6 pages long now LOL.

Purchased with 40K on it and 2 years later almost 60K so ~10K a year. Works out perfect for oil changes in the Fall and Spring which is every 5K. Every 30K is fluid changes in pumpkins and transfer case. Coolant change at the same time with a tranny drain and fill.

At ~90K will do a borescope inspection for the valley plate leak. And change plugs & wires and at that time do a compression check on each cylinder. Also inspect for timing cover gasket leak and cam tower leak. Depending on the results then will make the decision to move forward or sell it. Hopefully will be keeping it, depending on inspection results. Then will replace:

Water pump
Radiator and hoses & clamps
Tranny cooler and hoses & clamps
TStat
Serpentine Belt
idler pulley
pulley tensioner
Alternator (Lux is higher rated than standard)
EGR Valve
Fan clutch
Suspension

Should get me another 90-100K although with time things like the AC will likely develop problems and little things will give out. But as long as I don't break down in the woods without cell phone reception they can be repaired.

The 460 is the best vehicle I have had in my life as far as comfort, lifestyle and meeting my needs. The 550 and 250 lack some of that luxury feel and moving to the LX is just a touch too large for the trails I run. The cost of an average new car right now is more than $50K something like the GX that I would want is much more than that. So still money ahead even after preventative maintenance cost.

I hope that rust monster stays the hell away from your rig for much more than a decade! Keep yer stick on the ice....

 

[MeefZah]

Man some of you guys are intense

 

[Rednexus]

Man some of you guys are intense

Intensity will keep your 2020 GX running like in the year 2040! Seriously, mine is turning 19 in just several weeks, still has the original engine/trans, and near-new compression numbers. Fluid Film/Woolwax is preserving the frame as well. It's totally possible I'll still have it in 11 years when it's a 30 year-old rig (after all, there are quite a few 1995 80 Series land cruisers running around!).

 

[MeefZah]

Intensity will keep your 2020 GX running like in the year 2040! Seriously, mine is turning 19 in just several weeks, still has the original engine/trans, and near-new compression numbers. Fluid Film/Woolwax is preserving the frame as well. It's totally possible I'll still have it in 11 years when it's a 30 year-old rig (after all, there are quite a few 1995 80 Series land cruisers running around!).

Yeah I get it, and I do the maintenance, but jeez I'm not going to dedicate my life to this thing. If it breaks I'll fix it. More power to the people that ph test the rain water to make sure it won't oxidize their paint but that's a level of giving a s*** that I've never achieved.

 

[r2m]

Man some of you guys are intense

Well... the other options are: consider getting a new vehicle every few years, OR live in the south west (my choice!)!

 

[Rednexus]

Well... the other options are: consider getting a new vehicle every few years, OR live in the south west (my choice!)!

You get to avoid the Fluid Film/Woolwax, but have to deal with more frequent repaints and leather replacements .

In all reality vehicle maintenance for a GX is neither time consuming nor is it frequent. For me, every 3 years is a FF/WW treatment, trans fluid flush, and power steering flush. Every 4-5 years is a coolant flush. T-belt is 8-10 years. Brake fluid change and gear oil change is every 1-2 years. I've definitely spent a lot more time/energy on age-related items on my rig - replacing the dash, new leather, replacing brake lines, rubber parts, etc. With a new-ish GX460, all of those things are further in the future than they were for me when I bought my rig.

Maintenance is not much different between a 460 and a 470. No T-belt on a 460, but there is a valley plate repair that is more expensive but less frequent.