GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread

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@GrizzlyClint

USB install a success. I edited the original post with an explanation and pics:


View attachment 4032773
Nice!
 
Looks like I am a member of the blown headgasket family. Started blowing white smoke at startup last weekend.

Looking for a shop to do the work.

Mostly because of the unrecoversble time and money i have into the truck.
Do it yourself. Wintertime is upon us. A few weekends and you'll be as good as new. If you buy a used engine, can I have your old one?
 
@GrizzlyClint

USB install a success. I edited the original post with an explanation and pics:


View attachment 4032773
Nice clean install! But...
Just an FYI, I'm glad if still have the 3.5mm jack. If you've read my recent posts on my build thread, you're probably familiar with the problem I'm having with my head unit locking up when either my wife's or my own phones are connected via Bluetooth.
My work-around has been getting a USB-C to 3.5mm jack. Doing that I can still use Spotify on my phone through the ML stereo.
So for me, I don't think I'll be deleting the 3.5mm jack anytime soon.
 
Nice clean install! But...
Just an FYI, I'm glad if still have the 3.5mm jack. If you've read my recent posts on my build thread, you're probably familiar with the problem I'm having with my head unit locking up when either my wife's or my own phones are connected via Bluetooth.
My work-around has been getting a USB-C to 3.5mm jack. Doing that I can still use Spotify on my phone through the ML stereo.
So for me, I don't think I'll be deleting the 3.5mm jack anytime soon.
I have not read that thread and I am unaware of any issues you had, but I don't really mind losing it. I've never had cause to use it, ever, in any car I've ever had. I think I'll be okay...
 
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Do it yourself. Wintertime is upon us. A few weekends and you'll be as good as new. If you buy a used engine, can I have your old one?
Absolutely not. I dont even have a space to work on it and have a bad back.
 
Looks like I am a member of the blown headgasket family. Started blowing white smoke at startup last weekend.

Looking for a shop to do the work.

Mostly because of the unrecoversble time and money i have into the truck.
Missed this post. 😭 How many miles?
 
Absolutely not. I dont even have a space to work on it and have a bad back.
Absolutely not youre not going to attempt it, or absolutely not I can't have the old engine? Are you sure you dont have a valley plate leak into the intake? Have you done a cylinder compression and leak down test?
 
Concur on running a compression and leakdown test, as well as checking for combustion gasses in the coolant. Those are pretty easy and cheap tests to DIY in a parking lot with a few hundred bucks in tools. My recent experience dealing with shops (when advising friends/family members) is that very few know how to diagnose anything. They'd rather jump straight to the most expensive parts replacement prior to verifying what the actual problem is.
 
Broke 100,000 miles, and now Cylinder 8 is misfiring in mine. Replaced spark plugs and inspected things with a bore scope to see if there were any noticeable cracks.

Then jumped to the compression test. ~185-190 PSI on all but Cylinder 8. 8 is hitting 130 PSI.

The next test is a wet compression test to see whether we're dealing with rings or a gasket today.

1763565009818.webp
 
Broke 100,000 miles, and now Cylinder 8 is misfiring in mine. Replaced spark plugs and inspected things with a bore scope to see if there were any noticeable cracks.

Then jumped to the compression test. ~185-190 PSI on all but Cylinder 8. 8 is hitting 130 PSI.

The next test is a wet compression test to see whether we're dealing with rings or a gasket today.

View attachment 4033537
In general you should run a wet test immediately after running a dry test in each cylinder, with all tests performed on a warm engine. Toyota does not list that in the FSM but it's more or less "standard" procedure for compression tests.

I'd also go ahead and run a leakdown test, before you run the wet test (so the cylinder is not full of oil during the leakdown test). With the leakdown test you can definitively tell where the leakage is occurring based on where the pressure is escaping too (cooling system, intake manifold, exhaust, or crankcase). I have a Maddox leakdown tester that was around $100 at Harbor Freight and it works quite well. You'll need a consistent source of shop air to run it (small compressor works fine).

Misfire AND low compression might point towards a burned exhaust valve, which could have been caused by a cylinder running lean for some reason (often a partially clogged injector could do that - I had one toast a valve in a Subaru EJ25 that way). If your leakdown is out of spec and the air is coming out the exhaust pipe, then your problem is ID'd.
 
2nd owner
I have a service connected back injury that would preclude me from doing anything engine swap wise.
Not to mention I dont have a space to do it

I have helped friends do engine swaps and I have no interest in that BS.

Old engine will have to be turned in for core.

Exhaust coming out of radiator.
 
2nd owner
I have a service connected back injury that would preclude me from doing anything engine swap wise.
Not to mention I dont have a space to do it

I have helped friends do engine swaps and I have no interest in that BS.

Old engine will have to be turned in for core.

Exhaust coming out of radiator.
Bummer dude. :(
 
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Yeah, it's been tough for the 1UR/A760F recently. I sometimes wish I had a decade-newer 460 when I'm dealing with age-related items like leaky AC lines, cracked dashes, worn leather, blown speakers, and peeling clearcoat. But, I'm certainly glad the 470 has a bulletproof powertrain.
 
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it's been tough for the 1UR/A760F recently

Maybe. But I think this is also the only forum that isn’t bloated with ads so maybe we just hear about breakdowns more.

Ive got 220k and the only repairs Ive done are a throttle body and valley plate leak (@200k).

Keep in mind @Hiluxforever had a overheating incident from a failed aftermarket radiator.

That reminds me. Time to change the radiator again…
 
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Highly recommend the CFS radistor. Its not polite to mention what I think of O'Reilly. Absolutely awful company. Second time their products have done me a dirty.

Talked to a local mechanic and they think it should be repairable. Its going in January 12th for initial diagnosis.

That should reduce the cost by about 5k. When I first started looking at engines I didnt realize the GX engines all start at about 5700$ the GS and LS 1URs are about 2k.

So my own initial estimates were based off of that logical fallacy. When I corrected my estimate jumped substantially.
 
Maybe. But I think this is also the only forum that isn’t bloated with ads so maybe we just here about breakdowns more.

Ive got 220k and the only repairs Ive done are a throttle body and valley plate leak (@200k).

Keep in mind @Hiluxforever had a overheating incident from a failed aftermarket radiator.

That reminds me. Time to change the radiator again…
I went with a CSF to avoid a radiator fiasco, which is also available for the 460 now. Granted, what appeared to be the original OEM Toyota/Denso was still fine at 191K! Can't imagine it would have lasted much longer.

I'd absolutely buy a GX460 if my GX was totalled, but would be quite diligent about cooling system and transmission fluid maintenance. One secret to the 470 being more reliable may well be the 100K T-belt intervals, as the cooling system also gets flushed and anything visibly worn is replaced at the same time. I've always liked T-belt motors more than T-chain motors for that (among other) reasons.
 
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