@GrizzlyClint
wut
wut
GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread
- Thread starter Roody
- Start date
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Ignore it. Lol
Was 21° last week 17° yesterday morning so unpinned the bypass, still balmy but temps are going down for the next 5-6 months. And not going to be towing again until after it starts to warm up.
After I got home from 3 weeks in the Arrowhead attacked the scratches in the paint from the tag alders and brush. Started with a clay bar then Meguiar's Ultimate Compound making up to 3 passes in places. Eventually got most of natures pinstriping out. Then buffed with Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Polish and Wax. Warmed up to 55° last Monday so did a final pass and winter protection with old school Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, by hand of course. Wax on, wax off.
The GX spent last couple of days at a detailer shop that does Woolwax Creep N' Crawl Undercarriage & Cavity Wax. Spendy but he pulls all the wheels on the lift so he can get into everywhere. And pressure washes with a brine neutralizer before a final rinse. Said the NHOU undercoating that I had done 2 years ago at a different shop had done its job and there was no rust at all on the frame. And overall looked better than most vehicles he has seen, even a lot newer ones. I'm sure in large part due to its winter life in Texas for the first 4 years.
Charged me an extra $125 to get all the mud off the undercarriage, not unreasonable IMO. IH8MUD and it doesn't make sense to undercoat on top of mud. Hard water is a coming soon and the mud on the trails will be hard as well. Should be good to go for the next ~5 years or so. Not saying I'm ready for winter I know better then to taunt Mother Nature. But am standing by for playing the guessing game of who's lane is it in towns and cities with snow covered and packed roads.
He took a buffer to the Collinite 845 when he was done at no charge, said he couldn't help himself LOL. It did bring out the warmth of the Carnauba.
After I got home from 3 weeks in the Arrowhead attacked the scratches in the paint from the tag alders and brush. Started with a clay bar then Meguiar's Ultimate Compound making up to 3 passes in places. Eventually got most of natures pinstriping out. Then buffed with Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Polish and Wax. Warmed up to 55° last Monday so did a final pass and winter protection with old school Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, by hand of course. Wax on, wax off.
The GX spent last couple of days at a detailer shop that does Woolwax Creep N' Crawl Undercarriage & Cavity Wax. Spendy but he pulls all the wheels on the lift so he can get into everywhere. And pressure washes with a brine neutralizer before a final rinse. Said the NHOU undercoating that I had done 2 years ago at a different shop had done its job and there was no rust at all on the frame. And overall looked better than most vehicles he has seen, even a lot newer ones. I'm sure in large part due to its winter life in Texas for the first 4 years.
Charged me an extra $125 to get all the mud off the undercarriage, not unreasonable IMO. IH8MUD and it doesn't make sense to undercoat on top of mud. Hard water is a coming soon and the mud on the trails will be hard as well. Should be good to go for the next ~5 years or so. Not saying I'm ready for winter I know better then to taunt Mother Nature. But am standing by for playing the guessing game of who's lane is it in towns and cities with snow covered and packed roads.
He took a buffer to the Collinite 845 when he was done at no charge, said he couldn't help himself LOL. It did bring out the warmth of the Carnauba.
I need a good shop to do the same to my undercarriage. I also really would like a deep clean underneath.
@Cold Iron digging the garage lights.
@Cold Iron digging the garage lights.
Those are the lights at the shop that did the WoolWax. Yeah after seeing them my garage lighting feels so inadequate now!
Well my years of running SL tires and telling people "I've run SL tires for years without any issues" in forum posts about LT tires may be over. I popped both rears this weekend. Yes I was aired down and yes I was also doing something dumb.
I do mine in the driveway. Rig is up on jackstands with the wheels off, and I'm armed with a pressure washer. Woolwax/Fluid Film can be DIY applied pretty easily with a gun that Woolwax sells. It's a messy job, so I only do it every 3 years or so.
Which flavor of SL? I'm a proponent of them as well but usually drive pretty conservatively off-road. And there seems to be some variation in SL tire construction/Max psi/etc.
Has anyone replaced the dual USB + aux data ports under the front console slider with USBs that actually can charge something? I can't for the life of me figure out why Lexus insisted on installing two of those worthless things up there. Now that I have wireless AA I don't have any use for any of the data ports but even if I did why would I need two?
I pulled the Lexus USB + aux box out, and using some decidedly non-scientific measuring, I believe the internals of the box are just a hair larger than a Carling style switch set sideways. Several reputable manufacturers make dual 2.4+ amp USBs that are set into Carling switch size boxes, so I snagged one - a new Blue Sea 1039 for $25 off Ebay - to try this out.
I think if the Lexus box is disassembled, that the Blue Sea will fit inside. The "lid" of the Lexus box, the part that has the emblems for the USB and aux and the holes for each of them, can then be cut away just enough to flange the Blue Sea and allow the Blue Sea to snap into the box and the box to snap back in place.
Wiring would then be to fusebox, leaving the Lexus wiring hanging unplugged under the console.
I will update once I get the parts, if this works.
Edit 11-17-25
I received the above component and got it installed. It's as I thought, slightly smaller than the box. I cut a rectangular hole in the box lid and the USB snapped into that, then the lid snapped onto the box, and the box snapped back into the console. Wiring was ran to an unused constant power circuit so the USBs are always hot.
Pry box out of console and unsnap lid, discard circuitry:
Cut hole in lid for USB and snap it in:
Run wiring under console to USB through OEM box, snap lid onto box, snap box back onto console:
Install wiring to fuse box and ground. This empty circuit is constant power:
I pulled the Lexus USB + aux box out, and using some decidedly non-scientific measuring, I believe the internals of the box are just a hair larger than a Carling style switch set sideways. Several reputable manufacturers make dual 2.4+ amp USBs that are set into Carling switch size boxes, so I snagged one - a new Blue Sea 1039 for $25 off Ebay - to try this out.
I think if the Lexus box is disassembled, that the Blue Sea will fit inside. The "lid" of the Lexus box, the part that has the emblems for the USB and aux and the holes for each of them, can then be cut away just enough to flange the Blue Sea and allow the Blue Sea to snap into the box and the box to snap back in place.
Wiring would then be to fusebox, leaving the Lexus wiring hanging unplugged under the console.
I will update once I get the parts, if this works.
Edit 11-17-25
I received the above component and got it installed. It's as I thought, slightly smaller than the box. I cut a rectangular hole in the box lid and the USB snapped into that, then the lid snapped onto the box, and the box snapped back into the console. Wiring was ran to an unused constant power circuit so the USBs are always hot.
Pry box out of console and unsnap lid, discard circuitry:
Cut hole in lid for USB and snap it in:
Run wiring under console to USB through OEM box, snap lid onto box, snap box back onto console:
Install wiring to fuse box and ground. This empty circuit is constant power:
Last edited:
Mickey Thompson Baja Boss 285/70r17.
Obviously it's likely I was just unlucky and/or did this to myself via the power of hooning. But I do wonder if the full bumper/armor GX with passengers and stuff is too fat for standard load.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
If you are going to hoon offroad there is a argument to run MTs. The carcasses are significantly stronger that ATs.
I was considering the Bajas when I got new tires. They are a bit lighter than the AT4Ws I went with (48 vs. 54 pounds) and have a lower psi rating (44 vs. 51 psi). I picked the Falkens due to the psi rating as I tow often, and didn't want to be running the tires at the max PSI rating. So, it appears that the Falkens may be a bit overbuilt as a SL relative to other, thinner SLs (despite having the same weight rating). Tires like the Toyo Open Country are also super light...even lighter than the Baja. Probably best to go with a C-load for those tires.
The closet thing I've had to a "pop" was doing donuts on a gravel bar at 18 psi. I got a little bit of sand in the bead and developed a slow leak. So, yeah that is pretty intense loading on a sidewall if you were also having some donut fun
.We had stopped on the trail for a few minutes and wanted to catch up to the rest of our convoy. Thanks to Dobinsons and Perry Parts that task was accomplished much faster and more comfortably than anyone anticipated.
If you legitimately damaged two tires flying down a trail, then yeah they are under-sized/under strength for your application
.I'm happy with my Perry parts bumpstops as well. I have front and rear and both have been properly used.
I have an extra "box" / 'front cup holder' assembly if you want it for cutting up or if you mess yours up...I just had to take the decorative cover off of it to replace mine.
I really should have stopped by your place when I went through Missouri last week.
Highly interested in the result here. I'm currently using my third row power for a USB port like that one you posted but it would be nice to have something that looked factory.
I've been looking for excuses to start a LLC and do side jobs!I really should have stopped by your place when I went through Missouri last week.