Getting ready for 100K maintenance (1 Viewer)

[rscoleman]

So I getting close to 100K on my 2016 LC. I was planning on doing the following.
Transmission fluid full replace.
Coolant and water pump.
New Serpentine belt.
Replace front and rear shocks. Besides OEM shocks does any one have any recommendations?

I did front and rear diffs, and transfer case at 75K and will do again at 150K.
I will wait to 150K for starter and radiator, if they make it that far.
I do brakes as needed and new fluid with any brake work.

Anything else I should be looking at?

 

[jwmNC]

I’m at the same mileage with mine and I’m going with a Dobinsons IMS package for the suspension refresh. Not much lift - 1.4” front and .75” back (OME springs on the back as Dobinsons’ options start at 2”). I installed a similar setup on a 4Runner and really like how it’s a more controlled ride but not too stiff.

 

[04UZJ100]

Don’t touch water pump unless it’s seeping from the weep hole. Do tensioner and idler if doing serpentine belt.

 

[rscoleman]

Don’t touch water pump unless it’s seeping from the weep hole. Do tensioner and idler if doing serpentine belt.

Thanks for the advice. Will add the tensioner and idler.

 

[Possie Bugger]

at ~100K i did pretty much what youi're planning.

waterpump (slight leak), belt, tensioner, idler, coolant (116K)
break pads and rotors (98K)
front and rear shocks (1 leaking at 106K) NOTE: i'd probably do new springs too next time)
transmission fluid drain and fill (90K)

i'm good for another 100K!

and ,not maintenance, but my 3rd windshield is going in next week

 

[brian az]

I’m in the same boat on my 2015 LC. I was noticing that the ball joint boots look like the grease has seeped out. I’m trying to decide if I should replace them when I install the new Eibach springs and shocks I just received.

 

[Reckless]

Man you guys are virgins. Closing in on 300K. My recommendations:
1.) Get coilovers for suspension (blisteins are cheap, icons for racers)
2.) Do Tundra brake upgrade
3.) Get KO2 DT tires (DTs last forever)
4.) Get oil cap that is under engine for quick oil changes
5.) Wrap is not a bad idea

 

[Lou Gill]

Be careful not to over maintenance as suggested by some on this form….

 

[bloc]

I’m trying to decide if I should replace them

Absolute waste of money, time, and perfectly good parts. Ball joints just do that, especially ones that are as solid and long lasting as ours. 200k on mine and tight as a drum.

 

[32cls6speedmt]

Pcv. Easy and cheap replacement at 100k.

 

[08URJ200]

In addition to what you mentioned in post #1, I also replaced the fan clutch, was $50 or less IIRC for toyota part (mcgeorgepartsorwhatever.com). Was replacing the radiator at the time so was easy to get to. Also replaced the parking brake shoes when I did the rear rotors and pads.

When you do the waterpump I would also change the thermostat, should come with new housing. I replaced the 3 coolant hoses as well but they looked fine for 100k.

 

[bloc]

I also replaced the fan clutch, was $50 or less IIRC for toyota part (mcgeorgepartsorwhatever.com).

That would be a screaming deal.. MSRP is about $210, I paid ~$150 for mine on one of the late-summer parts sales.

I'd also say most of our fan clutches are fine unless they've been abused, like consistently towing heavy in hot conditions. I changed mine out of precaution at 200k, the first 100 with the PO towing a boat somewhat frequently, and couldn't tell a difference between new and old.

Our fan clutches don't seem to have the problems of the 80-series.

 

[08URJ200]

Logged in to verify but the closed order history only goes back to 2020. I did the work in 2018. The 50$ part may have been for the fan pulley as I changed that as well. It had belt melted to it that I couldn't scrape off easily so changed that along with everything else. Whether necessary or not, when replacing the entire coolant system and belts and pulleys upfront, it would have been the only part left untouched. Might as well not worry about it for another 100k and have a spare fan clutch in the garage.

 

[08URJ200]

 

[bloc]

If doing a complete cooling system I'd also do the fan support bracket.. mine was starting to fail at 150k. I just don't think most of us need complete cooling systems as early as 100k. Belts having melted to pulleys is pretty rare.

My notes must not be correct for what I paid in the summer, but either way that's a great price.

 

[jbyrd78]

Here is the PM I plan to do on my 2015 LX570 when I hit the 115-125,000 mileage mark. The water pump was replaced at around 89,000 miles by the P.O. but since I'm going to be in there I'm just going to replace it just so all the parts are on the same maintenance schedule.

I did all of this PM on my previous 2011 L.C. that I had. With the exclusion of the transmission drain and fill, and the AHC bleed, the job is around 6-8hrs if you have all the tools and no distraction. Hardest part of the job is getting the radiator out. Once that is out, it's smooth sailing!

 

[jbyrd78]

Don’t touch water pump unless it’s seeping from the weep hole. Do tensioner and idler if doing serpentine belt.

Since you mentioned tensioner & idler pulley...some of us have been waiting for you to post those pictures of that belt tensioner & idler pulley stamped "made in Japan."

 

[04UZJ100]

Since you mentioned tensioner & idler pulley...some of us have been waiting for you to post those pictures of that belt tensioner & idler pulley stamped "made in Japan."

Just have to order the right ones. Right @OGBeno

 

[OGBeno]

Just have to order the right ones. Right @OGBeno

Ding ding ding

 

[jbyrd78]

Just have to order the right ones. Right @OGBeno

I call b/s lol...pictures or didn't happen.