Hey, any tips on how to mount the Tuffy BoX??? I am doing mine and was curious if others were using existing bolts for mount or drilling for new?? Thanks!
The Riggs Dream Machine
- Thread starter BigRiggs
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #62
@LittleRedWgon My Tuffy box is still sitting on my workbench 
I have test fit it a few times, I think in order to get it to fit right I will have to cut the support for the original console. It holds the Tuffy a little too high, the stand that came with the Tuffy sits up in the air. I've been putting it off until after I get all the wiring done. Let me know what you figure out.
Little by little I have been putting in time on the interior LED lights which I think I have finished (the HVAC controls and stock radio took a little extra work that you can see in this thread). I have probably strung a hundred or so feet of wire for central locking, speakers, amp, aux fuse box, 12V sockets, etc. trying to do it all at once, rather than pulling interior panels off and on for each addition. The biggest conundrum has been the rear hatch power lock. The 62's have them, and it is relatively easy to power the four regular doors with an aftermarket central door lock system - all you need is the time and the intention to run the wires neatly and set the actuators so that everything works well and looks right. But I got fixated on the rear hatch and how a 60 differs from a 62. After searching more than any sane person would for pictures or info on the 62 rear locking hatch, and a few failed attempts at buying parts that would enable it, a message to northfloridafinds on Ebay (or @mel lowe here on MUD) got me the pictures and the parts I need to make the rear hatch remote lock as well. Right now that rear cylinder is at the locksmith getting re-keyed to match the rest so I'll post more on that later. The best advice I can give for central locking on a 60 is buying a reputable central locking kit (I have been satisfied by the 2 different ones I found on Ebay) follow the directions and take your time. My 60 is not my DD for now, so I have the luxury to leave wires all over the place as I work from one door to another and then wiring it to the LC. The set up I bought does have an alarm system, but instead of the annoying usual horn and siren sounds, I found a 12V bell for a lock/unlock chime and the alarm sounds like a fire drill!
I used the factory grommets wherever I could, cut larger openings and added some black split loom wrapped with electric tape to protect the wires in the door jambs. It is hard to see, but I tried to show how I mounted the front passenger door lock actuator. The fronts and the rears have to be done differently, and there's more than one right way to set it up - just be careful it isn't in the way of the window operation, door panel clips, etc.
Unavoidable mess of wires @ the driver kick panel. This LC is mostly untouched, so I am taking my time to try to keep everything neat. I'm getting close to packing it in once I get all the connections from the LC to the lock system, and there's another harness for the alarm part of the system.
Rear hatch locking components
Fire Alarm! (sounds more like an old telephone since it is so small)
I have test fit it a few times, I think in order to get it to fit right I will have to cut the support for the original console. It holds the Tuffy a little too high, the stand that came with the Tuffy sits up in the air. I've been putting it off until after I get all the wiring done. Let me know what you figure out. Little by little I have been putting in time on the interior LED lights which I think I have finished (the HVAC controls and stock radio took a little extra work that you can see in this thread). I have probably strung a hundred or so feet of wire for central locking, speakers, amp, aux fuse box, 12V sockets, etc. trying to do it all at once, rather than pulling interior panels off and on for each addition. The biggest conundrum has been the rear hatch power lock. The 62's have them, and it is relatively easy to power the four regular doors with an aftermarket central door lock system - all you need is the time and the intention to run the wires neatly and set the actuators so that everything works well and looks right. But I got fixated on the rear hatch and how a 60 differs from a 62. After searching more than any sane person would for pictures or info on the 62 rear locking hatch, and a few failed attempts at buying parts that would enable it, a message to northfloridafinds on Ebay (or @mel lowe here on MUD) got me the pictures and the parts I need to make the rear hatch remote lock as well. Right now that rear cylinder is at the locksmith getting re-keyed to match the rest so I'll post more on that later. The best advice I can give for central locking on a 60 is buying a reputable central locking kit (I have been satisfied by the 2 different ones I found on Ebay) follow the directions and take your time. My 60 is not my DD for now, so I have the luxury to leave wires all over the place as I work from one door to another and then wiring it to the LC. The set up I bought does have an alarm system, but instead of the annoying usual horn and siren sounds, I found a 12V bell for a lock/unlock chime and the alarm sounds like a fire drill!
I used the factory grommets wherever I could, cut larger openings and added some black split loom wrapped with electric tape to protect the wires in the door jambs. It is hard to see, but I tried to show how I mounted the front passenger door lock actuator. The fronts and the rears have to be done differently, and there's more than one right way to set it up - just be careful it isn't in the way of the window operation, door panel clips, etc.
Unavoidable mess of wires @ the driver kick panel. This LC is mostly untouched, so I am taking my time to try to keep everything neat. I'm getting close to packing it in once I get all the connections from the LC to the lock system, and there's another harness for the alarm part of the system.
Rear hatch locking components
Fire Alarm! (sounds more like an old telephone since it is so small)
That's a nice rust free truck.. Any photos of the door actuator installed?
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Thanks for posting up the info about the seatbelts. Wonder if a person could use the seatbelts that Wasco offers to replace all of the ones in a 60? I'm wanting to switch colors and this would make it so simple. Any thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #65
Tuffy Console – I got it installed and I made a template for others to follow @LittleRedWgon if they want it to line up like I did and use the stock mounting holes which is what I decided worked best for me. I’ll post more pictures soon of how this template makes it sit in the LC. Very close to the passenger seat so there is room to grab the parking brake lever and not scratch it with your ring bling. Far enough forward you can flip the rear seat down WITH the rear cup holder attached but not so far forward that you can’t shift through all gears without retrieving your drink from the front cup holders or flip the lid on the Tuffy radio slot. I also wired some USB chargers, aux music jack and a rear 12 volt aux outlet. All the wiring/measuring/fitting was tough but I love how it turned out. I had extra stock carpeting from the tailgate that had speakers put in it, so used that to cover areas that were left uncovered with the new console.
Remote/central locking for an FJ60 – I finally worked out how to power lock the rear hatch. The actuator had to be mounted on the driver’s side as opposed the passenger’s side on 62’s using the bolt holes for the rear windshield wiper. I made my own bracket, used a 62 actuator and got my local locksmith to order a brand new rear hatch lock for a 62 and rekey it to the rest of my rig. As you can see, the 60 rear lock looks a little different from the 62 and the way they operate is very different.
Alarm status LED – The central locking system also has an alarm, so I installed it as it came with some alterations: a fire bell alarm instead of the siren, no shock sensor and I purchased a cheap Toyota security insert from EBay as the indicator. I got the idea while looking for OEM fog light switches and stumbled across a later LC alarm indicator/sensor on cruiseparts.net. I found one for cheap on EBay and it plugged right in to the blank slot for FJ62 4HI. I like the factory look as opposed to drilling a hole to insert an out of place alarm indicator LED.
Remote/central locking for an FJ60 – I finally worked out how to power lock the rear hatch. The actuator had to be mounted on the driver’s side as opposed the passenger’s side on 62’s using the bolt holes for the rear windshield wiper. I made my own bracket, used a 62 actuator and got my local locksmith to order a brand new rear hatch lock for a 62 and rekey it to the rest of my rig. As you can see, the 60 rear lock looks a little different from the 62 and the way they operate is very different.
Alarm status LED – The central locking system also has an alarm, so I installed it as it came with some alterations: a fire bell alarm instead of the siren, no shock sensor and I purchased a cheap Toyota security insert from EBay as the indicator. I got the idea while looking for OEM fog light switches and stumbled across a later LC alarm indicator/sensor on cruiseparts.net. I found one for cheap on EBay and it plugged right in to the blank slot for FJ62 4HI. I like the factory look as opposed to drilling a hole to insert an out of place alarm indicator LED.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #66
I also finally got the time and guts to rebuild the carburetor – not as bad as I thought but still tough for my first time around. Thanks to MUD, @Pin_Head YouTube videos and the FSM I think I did it right. I had tinkered with carbs before, but I have always thought of them as best left alone unless absolutely necessary. I rebuilt it to get better acceleration off of idle which it does now, and to see about the vacuum actuators. I did the paperclip test too, which seemed to show that the secondary moved, but I don’t know if it was at max or not. I’ll check that out tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #67
Today I ordered the catalytic converter test pipe from MAF and the whole desmog kit from @FJ40Jim (Jim C). There are so many desmog threads and they all seem a little confusing at different points, I hope to add some definition to the process. I have learned a lot from several different threads. Enough to motivate me to take the dive from a perfectly operating stock system to one that will hopefully get a little more "umf" in the throttle. We celebrated my birthday by driving my dream car to play mini-golf, all the while I was also doing the paperclip test since I just rebuilt the carb. 
Congrats Man! Rig is looking good and happy birthday!
You did a great job on the door locks. Nice touch with the Toyota insert.
Cheers
-Ed
You did a great job on the door locks. Nice touch with the Toyota insert.
Cheers
-Ed
- Thread starter
- #69
It's been awhile and I have several updates to share but some have asked for info on the Tuffy console and how I mounted it so I wanted to repost with larger pictures. I still love it and it's awesome to have a higher center console, factory stereo appearance with hidden, modern stereo connection and sound.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Looking really good.
- Thread starter
- #73
@robstercraw I think I used some of the fasteners from the original console and I added some wide washers to spread the load, probably in the front. Then I bought longer bolts that matched the threads of the original console mounts for the back. If you are referring to the rear cup holder, that hardware came with the cup holder kit. I drilled my own holes for the usb and 12v sockets and added them myself. Let me know if you want more info or photos.
Gorgeous Truck, really like your modifications!
g-man
SILVER Star
My search for info on the 60 rear hatch lead me to your thread. Nice work. I will be trying to duplicate installing the 62 rear lock and actuator as you have done! How is it working for you? Did you use a relay?
