Just a thought for those who read & think that destroying/ deconstruction of the OE rubber bushes is "easiest" - just to add a thought here, and that's thinking longer term.
I pushed mine out proper in a real press (yes, it's mine but irrelevant) - burning out bushings is shortsighted if you ever think you may "grow" into a larger lift.
Last I checked, rubber bushes were ~$60-70 a pop, so 4x that (or whatever they co$t) - especially if yours are good condition / < ~175K or far less road miles, - is a waste of long term $$$.
I'd sooner do a set of Landtank plates (the Landtank plates plates via Joey > Slee plates, but thats a debate for another day) -& run extra an extra 1-2* caster than destroy good bushings on urethane that lasts 50-75K tops, then doing again.
I have a full fab shop & while some parts destroyed in a situation is fine, the LCA bushes are a thing that you'll be 'happy happy happy'(quoting my fav man Phil) - to find again in your bin of parts when you may go 4" lift or whatever, let alone just doing caster plates. I have run both, Rick's > Slee, esp since you have to have weld skills to convert from Slee to Rick's if you choose.
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CLIFF NOTES : don't dismiss your OE rubber bushes, ask @NLXTACY about corrcet * caster plates, or do the Slees' if you can't/ don't expect to ever need a swap.
I've been on both back-to-back, and as much as I like
@sleeoffroad products, Rick's are a real axle rotation vs. pivot on the rear LCA bushing. Slee products are awesome & Christo was 1st to market with a solution 99%-ers can add to their axle - it's a bizz-atch to swap if you don't burn wire routinely.
I'm on Slee 4" springs (excellent), and Rick /
@landtank plates compliment them with total neutrality of handling - the perfect setup if you will.
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If we want to do the - "rotate on axle centerline vs the pivot on rear LCA bush bolt" - we can make a thread (again, I think).
I dig Slee a ton ($pent ~$1300 there this last week, full disclosure), this isn't a bash - just burning out a OE bush isn't always a smart plan especially if you add spacers up front to combat 'stinkbug' initially (never a thought people consider prior to spring lifts), but it matters to your overall hub center to fender lip measure when you could be a 3.5-4" overall at that point.
Just wanted to add this since we see the 'need to swap to OME offsets bushes' quire common, then guys talk 'still got stinkbug' threads after.......
I'd do my caster correction last after you get your stance where you like with all your loadout gear in the 80 - you might add spacers or not, or whatever - get your gear load weight mocked before deciding the caster correction you need.
Guess on your springs, add either springs as needed or spacers if you hate the 'stinkbug' - then get your caster figured out last based on the way you load your 80 between the F & R axle weight - we all run a different F / R axle weight so each user is different.
