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- Thread starter tucker74
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tucker74 said:Mmmm ... smells like gear oil
Tucker
Hey T if you're looking for a place to "stash" that H55 I've got a couple options just down the street from you. I promise I won't leave it in the box for long!
Mmmm ... smells like gear oil
Tucker
Oh man!
- Thread starter
- #26
The one that works with the gasser, I was only aware of 2 versions though. One that works with F & H series, and one that works with B series? I could be wrong ...
Tucker
I think we both need to collaborate and come up with a compound turbo setup and find someone here in the US that can build up our pumps. Make sure we have enough power in these puppies to push the PIG down the road in 5th.
I have an HY35 and the stock triple K that both need rebuilt. Not sure if that is a good combo. I know the Hy35 can push one around stock with some small pump mods but the Lag is more than I would desire.
Looking good though. I will be bugging you alot I think.
How has she been doing? Any MPG reports? I guess with that 60 gallon tank you probably haven't filled up much.
- Thread starter
- #29
Got to spend some time in the pig this weekend, installed a new throttle bracket I picked up from TD Swaps and FJ62 cable throttle. I also spent a few hours re-doing the fuel lines, they were a pretty hacked up job and leaking diesel everywhere 
. This truck came with dual tanks and when he PO did the swap he had issues getting the fuel return right since the diesel circulates excess fuel back to the tank like EFI. Since it only had a three way valve to switch tanks he tee'd the return back into the intake which was causing it to over pressurize and leak, it also had a funky splice that looped back for the dual switch. Long story short, removed both tees and plumbed up the main tank with new viton hose. Will be installing an electric 6-way valve to fix this the right way, but also want to reverse the secondary tank inlet and install a dual filler when I do it 
. Was a freaking mess of a job though, the looped lines caused fuel to drain back from everywhere and I had to pre-fill the feed line so I wouldn't lose prime at the IP . At least I'll be able to drive it again, she fired up first crank after I degreased the heck out of it to clean all the biodiesel off everything.
Looking forward to putting some miles on her in the cooler weather -
Tucker
. This truck came with dual tanks and when he PO did the swap he had issues getting the fuel return right since the diesel circulates excess fuel back to the tank like EFI. Since it only had a three way valve to switch tanks he tee'd the return back into the intake which was causing it to over pressurize and leak, it also had a funky splice that looped back for the dual switch. Long story short, removed both tees and plumbed up the main tank with new viton hose. Will be installing an electric 6-way valve to fix this the right way, but also want to reverse the secondary tank inlet and install a dual filler when I do it . Was a freaking mess of a job though, the looped lines caused fuel to drain back from everywhere and I had to pre-fill the feed line so I wouldn't lose prime at the IP . At least I'll be able to drive it again, she fired up first crank after I degreased the heck out of it to clean all the biodiesel off everything. Looking forward to putting some miles on her in the cooler weather -
Tucker
Glad you finally got your throttle kit. I'm wrapping up the little fiddly projects on my engine before hooking it up to the tranny. Still wondering what your motor mounts look like? I scrounged some model A mounts that will work if the
Merc brackets are close to flush with the top of the frame. I guess I won't know until I get it blocked in for the mock-up.
Merc brackets are close to flush with the top of the frame. I guess I won't know until I get it blocked in for the mock-up.
- Thread starter
- #33
So had some more fun with the pig last night, after all my efforts last weekend it still seemed to be leaking diesel 
I think I mentioned this truck came with dual tanks, but what I didn't detail was it's got a 55 long range tank in the spare tire location and one of these along the drivers side along the frame:
So last weekend when I replaced the fuel lines I bypassed the auxiliary fuel selector and just plumbed up the main tank (feed/return). I thought at the time that the excess fuel that was leaking had been running down the input from the selector, down the feed from the auxiliary tank, and dripping from the bottom of this tank. I now know that wasn't the case, because the tank was still dripping after I bypassed it and removed the feed line completely So it seams this tank is leaking, and last night I tried in vain to remove it. It had the filler on the DS front fender, and a the filler hose ran down the inside of the cowl against the inside of the frame to the inlet. I had a heck of a time removing that and the vent (30+ year old hard rubber), then the filler neck from the fender. Next I removed all the nuts off the two threaded hangers and pried to my hearts content w/o any luck. I guess I'm going to have to cut the two hangers, but I couldn't figure out how to get above the tank last night.
Any ideas?
Tucker
I think I mentioned this truck came with dual tanks, but what I didn't detail was it's got a 55 long range tank in the spare tire location and one of these along the drivers side along the frame:So last weekend when I replaced the fuel lines I bypassed the auxiliary fuel selector and just plumbed up the main tank (feed/return). I thought at the time that the excess fuel that was leaking had been running down the input from the selector, down the feed from the auxiliary tank, and dripping from the bottom of this tank. I now know that wasn't the case, because the tank was still dripping after I bypassed it and removed the feed line completely
So it seams this tank is leaking, and last night I tried in vain to remove it. It had the filler on the DS front fender, and a the filler hose ran down the inside of the cowl against the inside of the frame to the inlet. I had a heck of a time removing that and the vent (30+ year old hard rubber), then the filler neck from the fender. Next I removed all the nuts off the two threaded hangers and pried to my hearts content w/o any luck. I guess I'm going to have to cut the two hangers, but I couldn't figure out how to get above the tank last night. Any ideas?
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #34
So I decided to dig in and figure out why my rear window wasn't working today, armed with my trusty multi-meter and some Emory cloth I started at the front. Click at relay (check), 12v at kick panel plug (check), 12v at TG switch junction (check) ... now I'm thinking WTF since both switches yield nada :-(. So I begrudgingly manually remove the window and regulator, then I took apart the TG switch and cleaned the contacts. I've got power and signal but still nada, took apart the regulator and found two things ... I have a brass gear (sweet) and my motor is frozen solid (fawk).
Anybody have a spare rear window motor lying around? Can these be rebuilt?
Tucker
Anybody have a spare rear window motor lying around? Can these be rebuilt?
Tucker
I bet a reputable electric motor shop could rebuild it for you.
At this point you have little to lose by taking your old one apart and seeing what you find!
Bummer...
At this point you have little to lose by taking your old one apart and seeing what you find!
Bummer...
That is a mess!
tucker74 said:Did you see the last electric motor I took apart? I'm kinda skeered
Tucker
Go for it Tucker, nothin to loose. Or I think there is on of those old time electric repair shops up north on Burnet, might find an old codger that can get it to work. Couldn't find it but found this online.
http://www.hamilton-electric.com/
- Thread starter
- #40
Well Pablo, I owe you a beer ... decided what the heck and tore it apart this morning to find this:
Spent a little time with the Emory cloth and 3M paint and rust wheel and ended up with this:
Added a little dielectric grease to it and buttoned it back up (that depth set screw is genius btw) and what do you know, she spins like a champ. Hopefully she still has enough gas to move that big window, we'll see when I get it all back together.
Note to self, need outer TG rubber to keep this from happening again :-(
Tucker
BTW: Thinking of running a silicone bead around both ends like I did in my 8274 motor, anyone see why I shouldn't?
Spent a little time with the Emory cloth and 3M paint and rust wheel and ended up with this:
Added a little dielectric grease to it and buttoned it back up (that depth set screw is genius btw) and what do you know, she spins like a champ. Hopefully she still has enough gas to move that big window, we'll see when I get it all back together.
Note to self, need outer TG rubber to keep this from happening again :-(
Tucker
BTW: Thinking of running a silicone bead around both ends like I did in my 8274 motor, anyone see why I shouldn't?