ElHefe
SILVER Star
On the quick test drive she ran strong and slow, the slow I expected.Can't wait to take her out for a proper spin at home.
-Daniel Kent
Excited for ya Dan! Grinning thinking of what you're gonna do with it!
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On the quick test drive she ran strong and slow, the slow I expected.Can't wait to take her out for a proper spin at home.
-Daniel Kent
Another vote for keeping it simple.
Always keep the idea of 'how am I going to fix that WHEN it breaks' when planning mods. I vote for the tried and true heavy OME/Ironman lifts of 2-3". 33" tires of whatever is most replaceable down there. A heavily loaded SOA rig on those off-camber roads will stop your progress more often than less ground clearance would. BTW, other than an SOA that moves the springs on top of the axle, the ground clearance gains on suspension lifts are only from the body to the ground, btw. The axle diffs stay the same height from the ground...that's where your tire height comes in. Also, with SOA, you'll likely be having to look at steering and driveshaft mods. Even a tall enough SUA lift will cause similar issues. Getting a custom 4" SUA spring pack (ala Alcan or whomever) replaced down there could be problematic or impossible, yes?
The rack should def be made of tube and not solid, if I'm understanding your question.
Another vote for OME. If you get 16s then you can run 235/85/16 which are available everywhere.
What you guys are doing for those people is awesome.
As to 16" rims, check what is on the 60. Some countries outside of the US did get OEM 16" rims. I have a set of chrome steelie 16" rims that I believe came from Oz. They look like the US 15" version.
Right on, great advice! Probably stay with the OME and some 33-34's. Yes that was my question on the rack. Understood on the height. Any particular reason for the tubing and not solid...just a proven method? Thank you!
-Daniel Kent
Hollow tubing like EMT (metal electrical conduit) or structural steel tubing is desired over solid steel rods because of weight and cost.
I personally home made a 3/4 length rack for my 62 with 1/2" EMT for rails/sides and 1" 0.065" walled square tubing for crossbars and expanded metal flooring. Weighed 35-40 lbs before the flooring went on which doubled the weight. I've had hundreds of pounds up there and it doesn't flex, like 4 big boxes of hunting gear plus myself at 240 lbs.
Makes sense! Once I dive into what I've got myself into I'll start drawing up some ideas.Thanks!
-Daniel Kent
EDIT: I'd love to see a pic of your rack if you wanna post one.
Are you getting fresh with me?
Just was going through it to see what I remembered:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/233960-another-diy-roof-rack.html
Not exactly needed for the build but other items you should have - Factory Service Manuals (FSM). The Body and Chassis manual, the engine manual for the 3B, and maybe not necessary but Toyota also has one specifically for the H55F.
Trollhole has the fsm for download. I think under the for sale section for free. On my phone so no link.
Hi Daniel
Lets hookup when you get back and bring the 60 so I can have a look at it.As you may know I have lived and wheeled several years in Latin America and always with Toyota Diesels
I have many friends over there that use there BJ60/Hj60's for work and pleasure.They are all build different and some upgrades might not really work for you.
I would keep it at 32 or 33 skinny tires and buy a pair (or 4) of the Vbar mud chains,that will be the only thing to get you trough that red slippery mud over there when it starts raining.
I always used the 9.00 x 16 Fedima tires over there which I imported from Europe,it was the only tire that kept going a bit in the rain together with Boggers,but the bogers will get you in trouble on the side slopes since they have no center section.
Just my 2 cents
Joe