Framers - Step right up for a question (1 Viewer)

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a lot of the times when you set the windows you can push or pull that window in and out a little bit and install jamb nails or screws where you shim to flush it out to wall surface.
 
1/8" of mud?

Maybe an extra layer of flashing tape on the outside before I set the windows will help.

No it’s made that way for a reason. Trust the System!

What I was trying to clarify was that you have 4 layers of product. Sheeting, window flange, stud and Sheetrock. When you nail it all together It has that added thickness that you can’t just add up all the thickness of the materials and expect 100% compression. The layers add thickness.

The reverse theory would pertain to blocking out for say a shower handicap bar. All stud bay cavity’s should be 14 1/2” right?

if I was to install horizontal blocking for three Stud bays I would cut all the Blocks at 14 7/16”

just like cutting blocking for roof trusses at the peaks and eves when you stack all those numbers together you cut all your blocking at 22 7/16“ Instead of 22 1/2”. That will keep all your trusses on layout.
 
OK, now that's starting to come back, from the last time I did a deck floor system. Blocks between the joists were not exactly 14-1/2".

You wouldn't believe how many section sketches of these window and door frames I've done, trying to work out the trim. When you see it done, you'll know why.

Thanks.
 
you can also buy 3’x 1 1/2” cardboard Shims under the Sheetrock at most supply stores. They are about 3/32” thick if I remember correctly.
 
Thanks for the replies. I suppose I could also use some of the piles of scrap to rip out some shims on the table saw. All the new trim is stained, no paint, so very limited on where I can use caulk.
 
Thanks for the replies. I suppose I could also use some of the piles of scrap to rip out some shims on the table saw. All the new trim is stained, no paint, so very limited on where I can use caulk.

Yes agree, that does limit your options.
 

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