Found Exact Rattle can match to OEM pewter. (1 Viewer)

[GA Architect]

Here are some samples over a Toyota bumper in different lighting. BGM0490 is too gold, BTY1613 is too light and too much metal flake in the color. I remembered my PO gave me a used can of Cruiser Corps pewter. No surprise, it's spot on. Cruiser Corps is an enamel paint, and can be top coated with an enamel clear.

Have you tried the Duplicolor Stainless Steel? I have just repainted an extra ashtray face plate with this, and put a final clear coat on it this morning. I'll snap a photo of it laying on the OEM bumper this evening.....At first glance, it is as close to the pewter color of the front bumper as I have come across in a rattle can from a local parts store.

 

[reddog90]

Have you tried the Duplicolor Stainless Steel? I have just repainted an extra ashtray face plate with this, and put a final clear coat on it this morning. I'll snap a photo of it laying on the OEM bumper this evening.....At first glance, it is as close to the pewter color of the front bumper as I have come across in a rattle can from a local parts store.

SS100? No, I haven't tried it, but that's what OP started the thread about. I called Dupli Color and they told me I couldn't top coat it with a clear, so I was looking for something else. Sounds like others top coat it with clear without problems though.

 

[GA Architect]

SS100? No, I haven't tried it, but that's what OP started the thread about. I called Dupli Color and they told me I couldn't top coat it with a clear, so I was looking for something else. Sounds like others top coat it with clear without problems though.

Per the Dupli Color website, here are the Stainless Steel application tips: > click here < (specific, see note #8 about an overcoat)


But, then again, if you talked with Dupli Color....then maybe the application tips aren't accurate.

 

[reddog90]

Per the Dupli Color website, here are the Stainless Steel application tips: > click here < (specific, see note #8 about an overcoat)


But, then again, if you talked with Dupli Color....then maybe the application tips aren't accurate.

Interesting. The page for SS100 also says it's a Lacquer though. I'm betting it's OK to top coat it with enamel clear.

 

[GA Architect]

Here are some pics of the Dupli Color Stainless Steel against my OEM front bumper.

 

[Rainman]

I bought some a month or two ago. First application was a bust. Second was perfect. Hmmm?

SHAKE THE PISS OUT OF THE CAN BEFORE USING!

Everybody got that? If you don't, it looks a lot like the "stone" spray paint from the '80s. Shaking for 1 minute won't do it.

 

[reddog90]

@GA Architect and @Rainman did you guys topcoat SS100 with a clear?

 

[GA Architect]

@GA Architect and @Rainman did you guys topcoat SS100 with a clear?

I use the VHT satin clear.

 

[Rainman]

Since this is inside (half the time) I have not top coated it. I may need to but geeze, I don't enough other things to do?

 

[JohnnyC]

I give my rattle cans to my kids for a few minutes to shake... they love doing it

wife not so much

 

[thecrazygreek]

Look at my post #2.
I clearly state... shake the hell out of the can...
It makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE!!!

 

[thecrazygreek]

This is the mirror I painted... half is painted half is original.
Tell me if you can see the difference...

 

[reddog90]

Have any of yall rubbed the surface post painting SS100 to remove some of the metal flake? If so, did you use a microfiber rag or just a blue shop towel?

Is there a particular way to touch up SS100 if I clear coat it? I'm painting a bumper. I'm leaning towards clear coating it for UV protection. The truck is parked in the shade or in the garage more often than direct sunlight though. And I'd like to be able to touch up scratches easily later on. Does adding a clear coat make that harder?

 

[reddog90]

SS100, polished with a clean rag to remove some excess flake. The color is exact, just lacks a clear coat.

 

[reddog90]

Look at my post #2.
I clearly state... shake the hell out of the can...
It makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE!!!

X2. Shake the piss out of it. Hold the can as vertical as possible and ~8-12" away from the object. Slow steady overlapping strokes. I was too close, too fast, and sometimes had the can at awkward angles on a couple coats and it turned out bad. Luckily I had just enough left in the can to do a nice final coat this morning to cover up my mistakes.