FJ62 Oil Change

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Don't make all this harder than it needs to be. OEM toyota filters do the trick and are around $5 new. You can also grab the big 15600-41010 filters from @HemiAlex if you want to be fancy.

If your motor is resealed top to bottom, feel free to use 15w50 Mobil1 Syn like @HemiAlex . Synthetic is great, just leaks if motor has odl seals. Otherwise Rotella or similar diesel oil is sufficient. Oil WEIGHT is dependent on your climate, so don't judge based on user input, judge based on your ambient temperatures. Add ZDDP additive if the oil you use doesn't have a lot of zinc.

If you really want to be anal, get an oil analysis with mileage recommendation from Blackstone or similar company.

For example I run OEM filter, rotella T4, 15w40. My ambient temps average 60s-70s most of the year but if I'm traveling to desert often I bump to 20w50 for the added viscosity.
 
Don't make all this harder than it needs to be. OEM toyota filters do the trick and are around $5 new. You can also grab the big 15600-41010 filters from @HemiAlex if you want to be fancy.

If your motor is resealed top to bottom, feel free to use 15w50 Mobil1 Syn like @HemiAlex . Synthetic is great, just leaks if motor has odl seals. Otherwise Rotella or similar diesel oil is sufficient. Oil WEIGHT is dependent on your climate, so don't judge based on user input, judge based on your ambient temperatures. Add ZDDP additive if the oil you use doesn't have a lot of zinc.

If you really want to be anal, get an oil analysis with mileage recommendation from Blackstone or similar company.

For example I run OEM filter, rotella T4, 15w40. My ambient temps average 60s-70s most of the year but if I'm traveling to desert often I bump to 20w50 for the added viscosity.

Well spoken.

It took a lot of time and money to get to zero leaks. I only run this oil because I drive the truck daily and I put a lot of miles on it and need the extended drain interval, plus it a 1600ppm zinc oil and it works without an additive.
 
Well spoken.

It took a lot of time and money to get to zero leaks. I only run this oil because I drive the truck daily and I put a lot of miles on it and need the extended drain interval, plus it a 1600ppm zinc oil and it works without an additive.

I ran that oil a little over a year ago before I resealed a lot of stuff...leaked far quicker :/ I appreciate that it is available at Walmart, the day I reseal the motor and have it refreshed, I will probably go back to it. Or Bradpenn..but that's all semantics.
 
I ran them all. I never saw any issues with any of them. Oil pressure never changed. The engine as spotless inside when I swapped the oil pan. it’s more about changing it frequently and using an good filter than any magic oil. This truck has all oil changes at about 2.5k intervals back to new listed all the way to new. That’s a lot of oil in 318,000 miles.

It’s all about what’s easier for you.

FA06954D-B0A4-45F2-91EE-CA9DEF6761BF.webp


4445E0DD-C0E2-4590-BB64-2F48A5DF9D54.webp


0A04A749-FC74-48C7-9B79-5729A83DE91D.webp
 
I am going to try Motorcraft 15w-40 in my FJ62. I run a 6.7 Ford diesel and it is great for summer months, I switch to 5w-40 in winter for the Ford, as I am in Colorado. It will be great to buy in bulk if it works out. Analysis is here:

Petroleum Quality Institute Analysis

It is a little short on zinc for the magic 1600 ppm number, so I plan on using a small amount of zinc additive, probably Lucas as its easily available. I feel that zinc and phosphorus is lacking in most other brands of "standard" oil. Be careful and do not add too much, I will update with my math and products used in the near future, as too much can damage your cats.

Motorcraft Oil is sourced and refined in the USA. I have switched multiple Dodge gas trucks (5.7L) to the Motorcraft semi synthetic and it made them run like new, and got 480k miles out all of them. Never had problems with leaks after the switch. The rest of the trucks wore out before the motor.

My background is Petroleum Engineering, so take that for whatever it's worth, however my real life seat of the pants with Motorcraft oil is it always makes whatever I put it in run better. We could go crazy with the CK-4, CJ-4 / F1 API designations stuff, oil evolves over time to meet specs of new engines, so the old stuff is hard to find... especially if you are running an air cooled Porsche / VW. However, this spec that is easily available everywhere seems to be right for our 3FE engines.
 
Back
Top Bottom