fj60 runs bad HELLLPPPPP PLEASE

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If you don't know how long it's been since the valves were adjusted then you should put that on your list of things that have to be done. 2F valves usually get tighter as they go so you're not going to "hear" anything as they burn away from being too tight.
 
If it's the not the fuel cut solenoid or the fuel filter then I would wonder if the jets were shalacked or perhaps the fuel pump is weak. Gasping for fuel or air is tough but can systematically worked out. After going though mine I'd say take one thing at a time and take notes while you do. Oh yeah, LABEL parts and wires!!!!!
 
Wiring on solenoid valve ( LC in general) White with Black line is 'ground', any other color is 'hot'.

To test solenoid: unplug from harness
jump white with black to ground (- terminal on battery...)
tap a jumper green to + on battery and listen for click . . .
 
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so, i took soggys advise, and tried hotwiring the fuel cutoff solenoid. i ran a jumper from the black/white wire to the negative post on battery, and then a jumper from the green wire to the positive post on battery. i didnt hear any clickn noise near the carb, like i thought, but i could DEFINATELY hear a clickn down by my PCV valve, and somewhere lower. it sounded like it was commin from more than 1 spot, but i could be wrong. does this mean my fuel cutoff solenoid is working properly? thks again guys...-other sean
 
HullenD,
You got 2 Pm's .... I forgot somthing in the first one ;)


It sounds like your FCS is working if you hear a click noise....I bet the ground is still bad though...So leave that ground wire on the neg. post for a few days and see if it fixs the problem...
 
PabloCruise said:
What about cat converters?

Wouldn't excessive backpressure create the conditions y'all have been describing?
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i just had "Russell" and those guys down off santa fe/hampden do a full ehaust upgrade. rear exhaust back...
 
end result

i took the "idle solenoid" apart, connected a jumper from the ground (which i took as the white wire with a black line down it), reconnected the solenoid, and then connected the jumper to the negative battery terminal. still hesitates... guess ill move onto sumthn else. 1 question though...if i did a complete tune up, had a jimC carb rebuild, AND changed out all vacuum hoses....would i need to go back and set my timing? would timing give these symptoms that missyc and i have? thks, sean
 
missyc said:
mines going to the dealer on monday, Iwill let you know what they say about it!!!!!
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an honest dealership [wait, is that an oxymoron? ;p ] will admit that ALL their mechanics are trained to work on fuel injected vehicles, and that they don't REALLY have a carb specialist on hand. They will either try and sell you a new carb, or offer to R and R yours, with the rebuild actually occuring offsite.

If you just want to throw some money at the dealership, just pay them to adjust your valves. Hopefully they won't screw that up, and you might just solve your problem. I concur with the others that overly 'quiet' valves are not a good thing.

:)
 
hullendersauce said:
i took the "idle solenoid" apart, connected a jumper from the ground (which i took as the white wire with a black line down it), reconnected the solenoid, and then connected the jumper to the negative battery terminal. still hesitates... guess ill move onto sumthn else. 1 question though...if i did a complete tune up, had a jimC carb rebuild, AND changed out all vacuum hoses....would i need to go back and set my timing? would timing give these symptoms that missyc and i have? thks, sean
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ookkk how about...Fuel filter? fuel pump? switched vac lines? cruddy fuel tank? stuck EGR.....maybe its time for a carb re-build....heard it was pretty easy to do.
 
i know what you are saying about the dealerships, been there a few times, I've had just about every kinda car out there, they all break down, don't matter what it is, the only way to not have a car break down is to never own a car!!!! a tow truck driver told me that... I have to wait till monday so there "cruiser" guy can look at it. I am not too worried about the cost, as long as it gets fixed it'll be worth it...
 
I guess I'm a third victim of the mid-range hesitation. Same problems. Usually second gear around 2000rpm and it will lurch momentarily.

I have just replaced the fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve and had Jim C. rebuild the carb and it's still doing it. I'm thinking it must be something in the vacuum system or timing. Next step for me is replacing the cap and rotor, wires and plugs since it's due for a tune-up anyway. Frustrating because I really thought the carb rebuild was going to cure it...
 
I Fixed It

I FOUND THE PROBLEMO were experiencing. before ANYONE takes there rigs to dealership...try this... it worked on mine with flying colors!!!!

unplug the vacuum from the EGR. plug the end of 'that' line with a vacuum plug, or screw. tuck the hose somewhere out of the way, and try driving it now. i hope that works like it did for me. im so stoked my rig is runnin well, after allllllll this. "time to go wheelin'...YEEEEHAAWWWW!" -other sean

gimmie yalls email, and ill email the pics to you. this HAS to be the cheapest fix ever. -sean
 
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MDH33 said:
Next step for me is replacing the cap and rotor, wires and plugs since it's due for a tune-up anyway
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hey...word of advise on the tune up stuff. get Toyota EVERYTHING...cap, router, plug wires, PCV, and Nippon Denso plugs (W14EXR-U). you wont be sorry!!! -other sean
 
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lowtideride said:
So it turned out to be a stuck EGR?
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yep. a non-functioning EGR.
 
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