FJ60 Power Steering Conversion for FJ40 while keeping air pump

subzali

 
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If you pull the shocks off, test them for resistance when you push them in, and make sure they rebound back ok.

Airsoft balls have been used to balance tires.
 
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Belts

I have a Saginaw set-up on my 1977 Fj-40 with ps pump and air pump. Before I had a just the ps pump. Now I am trying to configure the belts the way PabloCruise has them in this picture. Will this work for my set-up and if so anyone now the length of these belts?
Pulley's FJ40.jpg
 
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PabloCruise

 
 
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countyguard said:
I have a Saginaw set-up on my 1977 Fj-40 with ps pump and air pump. Before I had a just the ps pump. Now I am trying to configure the belts the way PabloCruise has them in this picture. Will this work for my set-up and if so anyone now the length of these belts?
Once you get your pump mounted, take a piece of string and run it around all your pulleys to estimate length.
Take that length to NAPA (or other) and tell them you need that length to fit Land Cruiser pulleys.
Make sense?
Good luck!
 

subzali

 
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I have a Saginaw set-up on my 1977 Fj-40 with ps pump and air pump. Before I had a just the ps pump. Now I am trying to configure the belts the way PabloCruise has them in this picture. Will this work for my set-up and if so anyone now the length of these belts?
countyguard, I believe for the arrangement shown in your picture, the belts are roughly equivalent to an FJ60 setup (or later FJ40 with factory power steering). On yours you will have to check to see if your p/s pump lines up front/back with your air pump (like Pablocruise's, which requires a custom length belt), or if it is offset as is shown in the picture. But you've probably already figured that out by now.

I still have not figured out what width the factory belts are. I think they are 21m or 24mm. I guess I could just go measure one :hmm: :idea: Most auto parts stores will not have one this wide, as most domestic belts and common import v-belts are 11mm, 13mm, 15mm or maybe 17mm wide.
 

AlexJet

 
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Nice write-up.
I may miss it somewhere, but would the 60-series PS work if I retain the original shock towers? Can the other pump be used to supply the 60s PS box?
 

PabloCruise

 
 
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Thank you!

I believe you can mount the 60 PS box while retaining the stock 40 shock absorber mount. I was set on changing to the F250 mounts when I lifted the 40, so I changed those out. My advice would be to evaluate the shock mounts at the same time as the install of the PS box. I did my shock mounts first and did not run into any issues, but it would be smarter to plan out both at the same time.

Other pumps may be used. You would just need an adapter to go from Saginaw PS pump to the metric thread on the 60 PS pump.
 

subzali

 
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Nice write-up.
I may miss it somewhere, but would the 60-series PS work if I retain the original shock towers? Can the other pump be used to supply the 60s PS box?
To add to what TJ said, I have seen pictures of installation where the stock shock tower was notched to fit the intermediate shaft. It depends on the u-joints that are used.
 

PabloCruise

 
 
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Well now that I found that nice 70-series relay rod that fits so perfectly, I have been contemplating some upgrades to my front axle; ARB and 60-series knuckles.

When I try to think through the 60 knuckles and all the changes I would have to make, it occurs to me I would need a new tie rod for the 60 series TREs, and it would have to be custom width for the 40/55 housing.

What do people do for their tie rod when they put 60 knuckles on a 40 housing? Cut a 60 tie rod and weld?

Looks like these guys up in Red Feather will make custom: http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=116&osCsid=faa04f924e90ae26a12d7d637d1c0167

But then I started thinking about my clever 70 series relay rod, and wondering it it will still fit after the 60 knuckle upgrade!
Hmm...
 
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Well now that I found that nice 70-series relay rod that fits so perfectly, I have been contemplating some upgrades to my fron axle; ARB and 60-series knuckles.

When I try to think through the 60 knuckles and all the changes I would have to make, it occurs to me I would need a new tie rod for the 60 series TREs, and it would have to be custom width for the 40/55 housing.

What do people do for their tie rod when they put 60 knuckles on a 40 housing? Cut a 60 tie rod and weld?

Looks like these guys up in Red Feather will make custom: http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=116&osCsid=faa04f924e90ae26a12d7d637d1c0167

But then I started thinking about my clever 70 series relay rod, and wondering it it will still fit after the 60 knuckle upgrade!
Hmm...
Can't go wrong with front range of road. Brian is a good guy to deal with. He also does the diamond axles.
 

PabloCruise

 
 
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Now I found some info in a thread over in the 55 section that included info about using 70 series rods when you put 60 knuckles on a 40/55 axle housing.

The thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/743693-first-time-pig-build-25.html
The posts:

40.55. 70 all share the same cross link measurement
sadly, the earlier 40/55 uses smaller ties than the later version.
you could swap a later 40 series front diff in (1981 and newer) and then the arms off the 70 series and you will have a bolt up cross link.
if you do that then you can add 60 series PS and you will now have the drag link from the 70 series that is the proper length and HD upper arms.
you can get brand new cross and drag links C?W ties from Toyota, this is what i did on the 42 for PS upgrade.
this way the only mods to the steering is the connecting from the steering box to the steering wheel.
just a suggestion.
if you use 60 or 70 series knuckles then you can just order the 70 series cross links with ties and be done with it.
yes, you can buy the complete cross links with ends from Toyota.
part numbers:
45460A ROD ASSY, TIE
45460-69125 1 $412.69
45450 ROD ASSY, STEERING RELAY
45450-69075 1 $371.69

i didn't pay near that much for these ones ... sure is nice working with brand new parts that actually fit the first time.
well, as discussed in the email, the cross link part number
45460A ROD ASSY, TIE
45460-69135 1 $412.69
has the ends included and will work from arm to arm.
the other part number i posted comes with the ends but is too long ... i think ... for your application. it is for the 60 PS box, now, IF you can give me a measurement of the existing arm to crosslink hole then i can go measure what i have in the garage ...
in the pic you can also see the difference in strength between the 70 series arms and the 40/55 series ...
this is a 42 series axle.
hopes this helps.
okay
part number 45460-69135 tube is 42" with center of end at 48" with +/- 1" play
part number 45450-69085 tube is 30 1/4"" with center of end at 38" with +/- 1" play
so unless you go with 60 PS box, this relay rod won't work in your application.
hope this helps
Not sure why the p/n's change between postings, I have asked Wayne for clarification.
 
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PabloCruise

 
 
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Since this write-up is based on Mark Whatley's original write-up for the Toyota Trails, I thought I would add some comments from Mark about that article:

To be honest, without digging up a copy of the article I am not positive what exactly I said to do. But some of the approaches that I used then that I don't do now...


The FJ60 arm has a lot of drop and clearances get tight. I have modified FJ40 arms... cutting them and turning the end 180*. A better solution is an FJ80 arm.

On at least one of the early conversions I wound up having to cut the radiator mount some for clearance. If you uses a full 3/4 inch plate, it move the box out far enough that it fits without clearancing.

The Ford f250 shock mounts work a lot better than the fabricated from steel stock that I did a few times back then.

Depending on your exact setup, it might work better to make the mounting plate long enough to mount the shock tower on it too. Clearance between the ford shock tower and the steering shaft can be tight.

I have come to not like the positioning of the steering wheel when you use a full length FJ55 steering column. Shortening it a bit makes for a much nicer setup. personally I still like the all Toyota approach over using an aftermarket steering column. but I also like a swapped in mini-truck column with the smaller steering wheel, tilt steering and all the controls on the column... I hate reaching for the wiper switch in a 40 on a dark road in a snowstorm.

If I think of anything else that I don't like anymore about the way I was doing that conversion back then, I will add it later.


Mark...
Mark's comments found here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/658273-mark-whatley-ps-article-trails.html
 
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Just to confirm, used compleate 75 series rods and tre on my convertion with 60 knuckles and PS box. Thanks to all the people that posted. Rhd bj40.
 

PabloCruise

 
 
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Just to confirm, used compleate 75 series rods and tre on my convertion with 60 knuckles and PS box. Thanks to all the people that posted. Rhd bj40.
So you put 60 series knuckles on a 40 housing and then you could run the complete 70 series tie rod, knuckle to knuckle?

Do you have part #'s for the tie rod assembly that includes both ends?

Thanks for writing in!
 
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