countyguard said:I have a Saginaw set-up on my 1977 Fj-40 with ps pump and air pump. Before I had a just the ps pump. Now I am trying to configure the belts the way PabloCruise has them in this picture. Will this work for my set-up and if so anyone now the length of these belts?
I have a Saginaw set-up on my 1977 Fj-40 with ps pump and air pump. Before I had a just the ps pump. Now I am trying to configure the belts the way PabloCruise has them in this picture. Will this work for my set-up and if so anyone now the length of these belts?
I may miss it somewhere, but would the 60-series PS work if I retain the original shock towers? Can the other pump be used to supply the 60s PS box?
There are smaller ujoints out there borgeson has them and i think this is off a 62? Dunno if itd clear or not i cut my towers off before getting that far.
Not sure about the 62's, but the 60 columns mate up with 55 u-joints just fine!
Same u-joint, see earlier in my thread for link on this...
Well now that I found that nice 70-series relay rod that fits so perfectly, I have been contemplating some upgrades to my fron axle; ARB and 60-series knuckles.
When I try to think through the 60 knuckles and all the changes I would have to make, it occurs to me I would need a new tie rod for the 60 series TREs, and it would have to be custom width for the 40/55 housing.
What do people do for their tie rod when they put 60 knuckles on a 40 housing? Cut a 60 tie rod and weld?
Looks like these guys up in Red Feather will make custom: http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfo...d=116&osCsid=faa04f924e90ae26a12d7d637d1c0167
But then I started thinking about my clever 70 series relay rod, and wondering it it will still fit after the 60 knuckle upgrade!
40.55. 70 all share the same cross link measurement
sadly, the earlier 40/55 uses smaller ties than the later version.
you could swap a later 40 series front diff in (1981 and newer) and then the arms off the 70 series and you will have a bolt up cross link.
if you do that then you can add 60 series PS and you will now have the drag link from the 70 series that is the proper length and HD upper arms.
you can get brand new cross and drag links C?W ties from Toyota, this is what i did on the 42 for PS upgrade.
this way the only mods to the steering is the connecting from the steering box to the steering wheel.
just a suggestion.
if you use 60 or 70 series knuckles then you can just order the 70 series cross links with ties and be done with it.
yes, you can buy the complete cross links with ends from Toyota.
45460A ROD ASSY, TIE
45460-69125 1 $412.69
45450 ROD ASSY, STEERING RELAY
45450-69075 1 $371.69
i didn't pay near that much for these ones ... sure is nice working with brand new parts that actually fit the first time.
well, as discussed in the email, the cross link part number
45460A ROD ASSY, TIE
45460-69135 1 $412.69
has the ends included and will work from arm to arm.
the other part number i posted comes with the ends but is too long ... i think ... for your application. it is for the 60 PS box, now, IF you can give me a measurement of the existing arm to crosslink hole then i can go measure what i have in the garage ...
in the pic you can also see the difference in strength between the 70 series arms and the 40/55 series ...
this is a 42 series axle.
hopes this helps.
part number 45460-69135 tube is 42" with center of end at 48" with +/- 1" play
part number 45450-69085 tube is 30 1/4"" with center of end at 38" with +/- 1" play
so unless you go with 60 PS box, this relay rod won't work in your application.
hope this helps
To be honest, without digging up a copy of the article I am not positive what exactly I said to do. But some of the approaches that I used then that I don't do now...
The FJ60 arm has a lot of drop and clearances get tight. I have modified FJ40 arms... cutting them and turning the end 180*. A better solution is an FJ80 arm.
On at least one of the early conversions I wound up having to cut the radiator mount some for clearance. If you uses a full 3/4 inch plate, it move the box out far enough that it fits without clearancing.
The Ford f250 shock mounts work a lot better than the fabricated from steel stock that I did a few times back then.
Depending on your exact setup, it might work better to make the mounting plate long enough to mount the shock tower on it too. Clearance between the ford shock tower and the steering shaft can be tight.
I have come to not like the positioning of the steering wheel when you use a full length FJ55 steering column. Shortening it a bit makes for a much nicer setup. personally I still like the all Toyota approach over using an aftermarket steering column. but I also like a swapped in mini-truck column with the smaller steering wheel, tilt steering and all the controls on the column... I hate reaching for the wiper switch in a 40 on a dark road in a snowstorm.
If I think of anything else that I don't like anymore about the way I was doing that conversion back then, I will add it later.
Just to confirm, used compleate 75 series rods and tre on my convertion with 60 knuckles and PS box. Thanks to all the people that posted. Rhd bj40.