FJ60 Heaters SUCK (1 Viewer)

Joined
May 15, 2008
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Los Angeles
Trifecta. Smogs probably the rarest.
Never been cold in the 60 and its often -10 at the cabin. Rear heat is not even hooked up. AC blows cold enough to hang meat even when it’s 100 out. I dread the day I have to convert to 134a

yah very surprised on the smog. But can’t complain !

I mean my AC isn’t GM/Suburban cold - but it’s perfectly acceptable Japanese ac cold

we use the rear heat for the kids
 
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Nov 2, 2015
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Memphis
You’re gonna have to proof read this. I don’t know what rodded out and re-soldiered means. A V8 should have enough heat to melt everything. Make sure the Land Cruiser heater valve is in fact opening, cause the adjustment rod sometimes doesn’t pull it open all the way. Make sure the clips holding the adjustment rods are all intact as well.


That's what old school hot rod shops call opening the radiator or heater core and cleaning it out.

OP, verify inlet and outlet temps of your heater core fittings on the fire wall vs your radiator fittings. They should be close. If you dont before shotgunning an aftermarket heater at it, you will have the same result.

I have had good luck with the muratic acid flush but it sounds like you already have a known clean heater core.
 

elripster

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I believe the OP has an engine swap. If the rear heater was retained, depending on how it was plumbed, the coolant might just be bypassing the cores and going right back to the return. Maybe a picture of the plumbing could yield some clues.

Frank
 
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Had adequate but not great heat in my V8 swapped FJ60. 'Back' flushed it, cleaned out blower motors, etc. nothing seemed to help. The heat would get better with higher RPMs, which I just attributed to fast coolant flow. Finally looked at a parts diagram and realized the heater core hoses were mixed up. The hose from the control valve is supposed to go on the bottom heater core tube according to the parts manual, with the return coming from the top. Swapped them and now the thing is gangbusters as described. Looks like OPs set up is the same (incorrect) way mine was.

1608918416982.png


Seems like it shouldn't matter but it did in my case. There was a thread in the 40 forum describing a similar thing.
 
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Ladysmith
Had adequate but not great heat in my V8 swapped FJ60. 'Back' flushed it, cleaned out blower motors, etc. nothing seemed to help. The heat would get better with higher RPMs, which I just attributed to fast coolant flow. Finally looked at a parts diagram and realized the heater core hoses were mixed up. The hose from the control valve is supposed to go on the bottom heater core tube according to the parts manual, with the return coming from the top. Swapped them and now the thing is gangbusters as described. Looks like OPs set up is the same (incorrect) way mine was.

View attachment 2534708

Seems like it shouldn't matter but it did in my case. There was a thread in the 40 forum describing a similar thing.

I love it! Been working on my truck for ten years and a guy with 6 posts, been here 6 months
comes up with a solution I never saw!!
 
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Camano Island, WA
Had adequate but not great heat in my V8 swapped FJ60. 'Back' flushed it, cleaned out blower motors, etc. nothing seemed to help. The heat would get better with higher RPMs, which I just attributed to fast coolant flow. Finally looked at a parts diagram and realized the heater core hoses were mixed up. The hose from the control valve is supposed to go on the bottom heater core tube according to the parts manual, with the return coming from the top. Swapped them and now the thing is gangbusters as described. Looks like OPs set up is the same (incorrect) way mine was.

So are you saying the L shaped hose under the heater control valve was routed to the upper firewall hole and Not the lower?
 
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So are you saying the L shaped hose under the heater control valve was routed to the upper firewall hole and Not the lower?
That’s how I got mine, and it’s been that way for years. I’m still trying to find that diagram he posted.
Anyone have a source and page number for that diagram on post #44
 
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Had adequate but not great heat in my V8 swapped FJ60. 'Back' flushed it, cleaned out blower motors, etc. nothing seemed to help. The heat would get better with higher RPMs, which I just attributed to fast coolant flow. Finally looked at a parts diagram and realized the heater core hoses were mixed up. The hose from the control valve is supposed to go on the bottom heater core tube according to the parts manual, with the return coming from the top. Swapped them and now the thing is gangbusters as described. Looks like OPs set up is the same (incorrect) way mine was.

View attachment 2534708

Seems like it shouldn't matter but it did in my case. There was a thread in the 40 forum describing a similar thing.
1609010137947.png


So this is from a different thread. I can't find any actual maintenance procedures for coolant in the Chassis Manual
If someone could post pages from relevant manual I'd be grateful.
What I'm seeing is this picture above from a FJ62 has in fact got the coolant lines into the heater core backwards???
Anyone?

Disregard the RED circles. I just stole the picture. I'm concerned with the two hoses into the firewall.
 
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View attachment 2535612

So this is from a different thread. I can't find any actual maintenance procedures for coolant in the Chassis Manual
If someone could post pages from relevant manual I'd be grateful.
What I'm seeing is this picture above from a FJ62 has in fact got the coolant lines into the heater core backwards???
Anyone?

Disregard the RED circles. I just stole the picture. I'm concerned with the two hoses into the firewall.
This picture shows all the factory clamps on factory hoses. I can only assume that they’ve never been removed. Here’s a picture of my 60’s routing. And mine works like a champ. And I’ve replaced all my hoses. It’s the same.

A50CE5FE-23DE-4377-8674-2010F16ED6E0.jpeg
 
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So it exits out of the lower piping from the firewall? I’m going to leave mine the same.
I am looking for an actual maintenance manual procedure that shows servicing the heater
coolant. The chassis manual services the air conditioning, but nothing for the heater.
 
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So it exits out of the lower piping from the firewall? I’m going to leave mine the same.
I am looking for an actual maintenance manual procedure that shows servicing the heater
coolant. The chassis manual services the air conditioning, but nothing for the heater.

Edit: Bookmark that ^

Edit 2: I can’t find anything about any heaters in any of those manuals with a cursory glance.....
 
Last edited:

ntdb

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Seattle, WA
Had adequate but not great heat in my V8 swapped FJ60. 'Back' flushed it, cleaned out blower motors, etc. nothing seemed to help. The heat would get better with higher RPMs, which I just attributed to fast coolant flow. Finally looked at a parts diagram and realized the heater core hoses were mixed up. The hose from the control valve is supposed to go on the bottom heater core tube according to the parts manual, with the return coming from the top. Swapped them and now the thing is gangbusters as described. Looks like OPs set up is the same (incorrect) way mine was.

View attachment 2534708

Seems like it shouldn't matter but it did in my case. There was a thread in the 40 forum describing a similar thing.



If this is true then almost every engine bay photo I can find from an FJ60 has them routed wrong. I've attached a marked-up version of the diagram to make sure I understand. The red arrows show the "right" way to route the hoses but the "normal" way seems to have them swapped (within the circle). If indeed the direction doesn't matter then perhaps what's accomplished by switching the hoses is to dislodge the gunk in the core by applying back pressure. Wouldn't this result in that gunk getting pushed into the engine and radiator?

1608918416982.png
 

Gretsch

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Finally looked at a parts diagram and realized the heater core hoses were mixed up. The hose from the control valve is supposed to go on the bottom heater core tube according to the parts manual, with the return coming from the top.

If this is true then almost every engine bay photo I can find from an FJ60 has them routed wrong.

This is exactly what I thought when I read that quote.
 

elripster

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I would have suspected the heater core purges air more effectively if the inlet is on the bottom. But alas, I just walked out to my truck which is stock and hot coolant exits and rear of the engine, to the valve, to the top inlet, out the bottom, and to the water pump. My heat is roastingly hot.

Frank
 

Gretsch

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This picture shows all the factory clamps on factory hoses. I can only assume that they’ve never been removed. Here’s a picture of my 60’s routing. And mine works like a champ. And I’ve replaced all my hoses. It’s the same.

View attachment 2535692

I think the factory clamps were those band clamps with the sardine can clamp type (I am not sure the correct term here). Maybe they different things here on different years. Shot of mine with what I think are the original clamps going to the bottom of the heater core counter to what that diagram shows. I think thats a mistake in the diagram. Seems like there wouldn't be room to route the hoses that way. My '84 with the sardine band clamps:

Hoserouting.jpg


It would be hard to believe someone replaced this stuff in my trucks past and re-used those clamp types to do it. My guess is that they would have used the Toyota double hoop clamps. But if mine has not been replaced then its factory going to the bottom heater core pipe.
 
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I think the factory clamps were those band clamps with the sardine can clamp type (I am not sure the correct term here). Maybe they different things here on different years. Shot of mine with what I think are the original clamps going to the bottom of the heater core counter to what that diagram shows. I think thats a mistake in the diagram. Seems like there wouldn't be room to route the hoses that way. My '84 with the sardine band clamps:

View attachment 2581435

It would be hard to believe someone replaced this stuff in my trucks past and re-used those clamp types to do it. My guess is that they would have used the Toyota double hoop clamps. But if mine has not been replaced then its factory going to the bottom heater core pipe.
Those are definitely factory clamps. Perhaps a dealer would use them for a repair way back in the day, but it seems like those spring clamps were designed for very rapid installation at the factory. I know they are available. The double ring clamps are probably far superior.
I concur, the diagram in the FSM is simply a misprint as I don’t think there’s a way to connect the factory molded hoses to the fittings the manual shows.
 
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Yeah I agree, I don't think swapping the hoses did anything.

Probably the biggest thing for me, was getting the hot/cool control slider dialed. The one slider controls both the water valve through the firewall and the blend door, through two different cables. So it's a little harder to adjust the recirc slider or the heat/vent/def slider.
 

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