FJ60 2f rebuild questions (1 Viewer)

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Oct 18, 2019
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Los Angeles
Hi, I just found out I have a blown head gasket on my FJ60 and considering trying the rebuild myself to save a ton of money. I need a new radiator as well but found a Mishimoto 3 row aluminum for $400 . My question is, how hard is the rebuild? I've heard it's easy, but most of me work I've done is outside, and never a full rebuild. Also, how long do you think it could take? I am guessing a month or two at least if I'm working in free time. I found a good master rebuild kit for $1100 with everything including camshaft, lifters and new timing gears. With radiator and other new parts it's under $2k which saves about $6k total so it's worth it if I can pull it off successfully. Actually. maybe $500-700 more for any machine work I may need.

Any thoughts or advice is appreciated...

thanks,
 

3_puppies

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describe what you are calling a rebuild?
at least for gaskets, I'd use as much OEM stuff you can find.
OEM rads are still available, I'd use that over the aluminum one
head rebuild alone would be $500?
don't forget clutch, preasure plate, belts hoses, etc

my self, I would remove the head and see what the cylinder bores look like
any idea on comp #'s before this happened?
 
Joined
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Charlottesville VA
It would be worth considering to take the cylinder head to a head shop and have them go thru it and make sure the head is not cracked. I don't think it would be that hard to rebuild the bottom end but experience and knowledge help to for example put the rings on correctly...it's the little things that can get you. You'll need to figure another $500 or so for an engine stand and hoist. Did you do a compression test? All cylinders good? If you're digging into and "unknown" engine... Figure more money for a machine shop to measure the cylinders and bore them if need be. Also they may want to hot tank the motor to clean the coolant and oil passages. Also they will need to measure the crankshaft. You will need to know it's good and if you need undersized, oversized or standard bearings.....details. If you know the cylinders are good maybe just hone them out yourself and carry on.

You'll want to click on the resources link at the top of the page and drill down to the fj60 and download the 80' 2f engine repair FSM...factory service manual.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 18, 2019
Messages
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Location
Los Angeles
describe what you are calling a rebuild?
at least for gaskets, I'd use as much OEM stuff you can find.
OEM rads are still available, I'd use that over the aluminum one
head rebuild alone would be $500?
don't forget clutch, preasure plate, belts hoses, etc

my self, I would remove the head and see what the cylinder bores look like
any idea on comp #'s before this happened?
Well I am going to buy the master rebuild kit and do everything...
This kit includes: pistons, wrist pins, rings, main bearings, thrust washers (84/87), rod bearings, cam bearings, freeze plugs, complete gasket set, camshaft, lifters, timing gears and oil pump.

Regarding the radiator, I heard this one has good reviews and the price is solid. 3-Row Performance Aluminum Radiator, fits Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 1981–1990

Clutch is new and yes belts and hoses for sure. Carb is in great shape I just need to get the engine back in tip top.
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2019
Messages
14
Location
Los Angeles
It would be worth considering to take the cylinder head to a head shop and have them go thru it and make sure the head is not cracked. I don't think it would be that hard to rebuild the bottom end but experience and knowledge help to for example put the rings on correctly...it's the little things that can get you. You'll need to figure another $500 or so for an engine stand and hoist. Did you do a compression test? All cylinders good? If you're digging into and "unknown" engine... Figure more money for a machine shop to measure the cylinders and bore them if need be. Also they may want to hot tank the motor to clean the coolant and oil passages. Also they will need to measure the crankshaft. You will need to know it's good and if you need undersized, oversized or standard bearings.....details. If you know the cylinders are good maybe just hone them out yourself and carry on.

You'll want to click on the resources link at the top of the page and drill down to the fj60 and download the 80' 2f engine repair FSM...factory service manual.

I had a certified Toyota mechanic at a local shop I trust check the engine for me and confirmed with a block test the head gasket is blown. I am borrowing a friends cherry picker and engine stand, need to buy a few more tools, and yes machinist costs are probably unknown as I won't know what I have to deal with until I open it up. Did not do a compression test, but maybe worth it before I start digging in? Thanks for the feedback, it's helpful.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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I fully rebuilt mine due to two broken pistons (landings) and a third w/ broken rings) and now on 130 miles since. Shop did the head ages ago w/ new oe jap valves from @TRAIL TAILOR. Shop cleaned, decked, overbored, honed cylinders. They attached connecting rods to wrist pins for me. I assembled everything else at home. I used my stock cam because it measured good. Same lifters too. Crank measured good as well.
Basically almost everything in the engine I’ve rebuilt. I rebuilt the tcase. I rebuilt all my brake lines.
Its kinda insane how deep I’ve been in it... and it runs.
 

3_puppies

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Well I am going to buy the master rebuild kit and do everything...
This kit includes: pistons, wrist pins, rings, main bearings, thrust washers (84/87), rod bearings, cam bearings, freeze plugs, complete gasket set, camshaft, lifters, timing gears and oil pump.

don't buy anything until you know what you need
again, there are some gaskets that I would buy and use OEM only, head gasket and oil pan at the least
 
Joined
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YOSEMITE
I bought my truck with a blown head gasket that turned into a cracked cylinder head. When I took it apart the cylinder looked very clean and there was no major buildup of carbon any where even though the odometer said 290,000 miles. I decided to have the new head completely rebuilt with a small amount removed to raise the compression some. I replaced the oil pan gasket, the cam, lifters, cam gear, the side cover gasket and the head gasket with OEM Toyota parts. I did not take the bottom end apart. That was 12 years ago and the truck still runs strong. pull your head, have it fully evaluated, check the block deck for level / flat surface, then decide what you really need.
 
Joined
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Los Angeles
Well I am going to buy the master rebuild kit and do everything...
This kit includes: pistons, wrist pins, rings, main bearings, thrust washers (84/87), rod bearings, cam bearings, freeze plugs, complete gasket set, camshaft, lifters, timing gears and oil pump.

Regarding the radiator, I heard this one has good reviews and the price is solid. 3-Row Performance Aluminum Radiator, fits Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 1981–1990

Clutch is new and yes belts and hoses for sure. Carb is in great shape I just need to get the engine back in tip top.
ok, sounds like getting the CCOT 4 row is better money spent. thanks...
 

Spike Strip

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I would STRONGLY advise not to buy that kit. It will be all Chinese/Taiwan parts. If you don't have a problem with that fine, have at it. Many have used the ITM (brand) parts without issue. With a little hunting, you can find Japanese parts.

Since your location says, 'Los Angeles' I would very much recommend Martin Davidson Automotive Machine shop in Reseda to do the work and order the parts for you. Have the engine balanced and rods sized and shot peened for durability. (where in LA are you?)


They are very familiar with 2F engine and do the machining for most of the Land Cruiser shops in the area.

When I did this I opted to have a professional build the engine because the end labor for assembly was only about $500 which was very worth it to me for peace of mind.

Also, kit will not come with an OE Toyota Head Gasket, and I'd use nothing else.

This is a MUST READ before you do anything; by MUD and Land Cruiser Guru FJ40Jim:

👇 👇
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 18, 2019
Messages
14
Location
Los Angeles
I would STRONGLY advise not to buy that kit. It will be all Chinese/Taiwan parts. If you don't have a problem with that fine, have at it. Many have used the ITM (brand) parts without issue. With a little hunting, you can find Japanese parts.

Since your location says, 'Los Angeles' I would very much recommend Martin Davidson Automotive Machine shop in Reseda to do the work and order the parts for you. Have the engine balanced and rods sized and shot peened for durability. (where in LA are you?)


They are very familiar with 2F engine and do the machining for most of the Land Cruiser shops in the area.

When I did this I opted to have a professional build the engine because the end labor for assembly was only about $500 which was very worth it to me for peace of mind.

Also, kit will not come with an OE Toyota Head Gasket, and I'd use nothing else.

This is a MUST READ before you do anything; by MUD and Land Cruiser Guru FJ40Jim:

👇 👇
Thanks, I am in highland Park but Reseda is not far. That is a big help, and the idea of someone putting it back together is a lot of help as well for only $500. I think I am getting OEM overhaul from Cool cruisers as most have said it's important. And I'll reach out to the machine shop. Thanks for the help.
 
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Oregon
How many miles are on the rig? Just because your head gasket leaks doesn't mean the engine needs to be rebuilt. Mine leaked and I ended up just doing a valve job
and calling it good. These engines last forever, so I wouldn't assume that just because your head gasket leaks means you need an engine rebuild.
 

DickM

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Gypsum, CO
I would start the teardown and get the head off before doing anything else. You know that has to happen, and you don't need any special tools or skills to do it. Then you can see what your motor really looks like.

Pick the right machine shop, i.e. one that has done a bunch of work on 2F's,and based on what you have seen in the teardown, have a long talk with them. They will know what needs to be done, and give you options for additional work, whether it is fix the galley plug or steer you to using the Chevy big valves in your head so that it ends up being cheaper and better than the OEM option with new guides.

Do a bunch of research here on MUD, so you can ask the right questions during the process.

Good luck
 
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I pulled my head because I thought the hg was blown. Couldn't find any obvious signs of tear at the gasket. But I had coolant puddling on top of the head. I took my head to a shop to have him go over it. He found cracks when he mag-fluxed it. That at 312K miles. I'd take the head to get checked before getting into the lower end. And figure out if you need to find a replacement head. New 2f cylinders heads are no longer available. How many miles on this engine? 2x ...you may NOT need to rebuild the bottom end of the engine depending on mileage.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Los Angeles
How many miles are on the rig? Just because your head gasket leaks doesn't mean the engine needs to be rebuilt. Mine leaked and I ended up just doing a valve job
and calling it good. These engines last forever, so I wouldn't assume that just because your head gasket leaks means you need an engine rebuild.
It has 280k on it and I don't believe the engine has ever been rebuilt.
 

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