FJ40 Roll Bar design per year (2 Viewers)

[FeralOne]

Curious as to which design of roll bars were used during certain years of production. For example, my 74 (11/73) FJ40 has what looks like an aftermarket roll bar with an angled side bar. In the photos, there are holes for the rectangular, typical iconic TLC FJ40 roll bar. I have seen photos of "stock" rigs with an angled roll bar like the one I have. Eventually I want the rectangle style roll bar for the fold up seats to clear and for the "FJ40" look.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[B y r o n]

Does the rear bar attach to a front hoop? You can get extensions for the seats to mount with your rear bar, or at least they were available in the past.

 

[FeralOne]

Yes, it's all welded into one piece. This roll bar is pretty beefy, and I have heard that the original rectangle roll bars were somewhat light (thinner wall tube)...

 

[brian]

looks like an old school man a fre bar

 

[Living in the Past]

Bought one from Man-A-Fre in 74. Removed it in 83 to install a factory roll bar with three point seat belts from a 79 FJ40 to go with the 74 bucket seats I installed. Still have the one I bought from Man-A-Fre. It was made by Smittybuilt. The tabs on the vertical bars bolted to angle iron which in turn bolted to the top of the tub. When the angle iron was used these were pretty stout. The factory roll bar's strength would be increased if it tied into the top of the tub like the Smittybult. But all the one I've seen posted on Mud lately do not have the angle iron brackets, just the tab connected to nothing. The angle iron requires drilling thru the boxed section on the top of the tub. Probably won't drill thru the tub today but didn't thing about it back in 74.

As for using the kit to bolt in the stock seats this cruiser is a 74 model that had the factory roll bar removed. The jump seats that came with the cruiser would be the short style. The kits were made for the long jump seats.

 

[mrboatman]

I have what looks like to be the same roll bar. I did find a old Smittybuilt manufacture sticker on it. It has been it for over 30 years.
JP

 

[Living in the Past]

I have what looks like to be the same roll bar. I did find a old Smittybuilt manufacture sticker on it. It has been it for over 30 years.
JP

View attachment 1542765 View attachment 1542766

Another one that doesn't have the angle iron at the tabs to help strengthen the roll bar. I still have the angle iron, jump seat adapters and the four plates the went on the bottom side of the wheel wells. Nuts and bolts were used for other things over the years which is fine because I would upgrade from case hardened to grade eight today.

 

[mrboatman]

@Living in the Past can you post some pic`s of the missing brackets? I would like to find some to make the installation correct.
Thanks
JP

 

[Living in the Past]

@Living in the Past can you post some pic`s of the missing brackets? I would like to find some to make the installation correct.
Thanks
JP

I wish I could. These are sitting on top of a tool box at our cabin. Came down Monday for what we thought was a two day turn around. My wife ended up in the ER on Monday night. She won't be able to go up to 7,000' elevation for quite a while. Might be going up myself in a couple of weeks. I can tell you the angle iron is the same length as the tabs end to end. If you measure the distance from the lip the tops bolts on to top of the tabs is probably about the same as the distance from the fab of the tab to the back of the hard top lip. The angle iron is equal on both sides. I put my 68 on its side about a year after I installed the roll bar. Damaged the passenger's side and rest of the top was fine. Still have the hard top side at my other home and can measure the distance between the holes. Or if your not in hurry I make a note to pick them up next time I'm there.

 

[mrboatman]

I wish I could. These are sitting on top of a tool box at our cabin. Came down Monday for what we thought was a two day turn around. My wife ended up in the ER on Monday night. She won't be able to go up to 7,000' elevation for quite a while. Might be going up myself in a couple of weeks. I can tell you the angle iron is the same length as the tabs end to end. If you measure the distance from the lip the tops bolts on to top of the tabs is probably about the same as the distance from the fab of the tab to the back of the hard top lip. The angle iron is equal on both sides. I put my 68 on its side about a year after I installed the roll bar. Damaged the passenger's side and rest of the top was fine. Still have the hard top side at my other home and can measure the distance between the holes. Or if your not in hurry I make a note to pick them up next time I'm there.

Not a problem your wife`s health is the important thing. The roll bar this way when my dad purchased the cruiser in 76. I just thought it was the wrong roll bar. So basically it bolts to the tub top with angle brackets? @FeralOne don`t mean to hijack your thread but this info could help us both.
JP

 

[Living in the Past]

Not a problem your wife`s health is the important thing. The roll bar this way when my dad purchased the cruiser in 76. I just thought it was the wrong roll bar. So basically it bolts to the tub top with angle brackets? @FeralOne don`t mean to hijack your thread but this info could help us both.
JP

Thank you, we got lucky up north would have been a helicopter ride to the hospital. Here it was short three mile drive with no traffic.

Yes it bolts to that flat area. Need to drill two holes thru the box section and use washers/nuts on the bottom. The roll bar came with the angle iron and bolts as I remember. Still have the 74 Man-A-Free catalog somewhere. Your probably do the same thing with a long piece of angle iron using all the fixed nuts on the straight section of the tub and upgrade the bolts. That's if you don't want to drill anymore holes in the tub. Personally I was glad I did install mine. Without them when I put it on it's side would have probably tweaked the passenger's wheel well if just bolt to top of the wheel well. I found a used top from a 73 in excellent shape. Straightened the passenger's fender myself. Had full coverage and actually made money. Just got lucky, a kid saw a sports car he just had to have and traded in his 73 without a top. Lived in a apartment and needed to get rid of the top quick.

 

[4Cruisers]

Lived in a apartment and needed to get rid of the top quick.

That's the way I was able to snare a split hood with like-new chrome hood spear for $100 in Las Vegas a number of years ago. Still have it in the basement awaiting installation on my '76 FJ40, along with '77 hardtop sides, lift gate, saloon doors, and a rust-free early bib with bottom marker lights (another bargain - $45 at a Colorado Springs swap meet).

 

[FeralOne]

Not a problem your wife`s health is the important thing. The roll bar this way when my dad purchased the cruiser in 76. I just thought it was the wrong roll bar. So basically it bolts to the tub top with angle brackets? @FeralOne don`t mean to hijack your thread but this info could help us both.
JP

No worries, the roll bar looks identical to mine-yet we also have bolt holes for the rectangular style bar. Looks like I can go either way...

 

[FeralOne]

Also funny that we both have the Smurf Blue paint jobs!