FJ40 Rear Bumper Build (1 Viewer)

CrowleyFJ40

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Materials List:
2"x4" tube for the main bumper - .1875 wall - about 8 feet worth, probably about $70 worth, I stole a piece from Erik's garage I have yet to replace....
2"x2" tube for the swing outs - 20' stick .250 wall, $96
2 Swing out spindles from IPOR - $100
2 Weld through shackle mounts from comp4x4.com - $20
1 2000# De Sta Co latch from Mcmaster-Carr - $50
1"x1" tube for cooler rack - .1875 wall, Free (friend had bunch of scrap laying around)
Expanded metal for cooler rack - 4'x4' piece, $20 with plenty left over
2x.250 Bar stock - 24" worth for gussets, stop, etc, $10
Receiver tubes - 2 of them, $28
Tail lights - $30
Miscellaneous nuts/bolts/washers - $30
Cutting board for center rest/pad - $7
Quart of Rustoleum Semi-Gloss shot through HVLP for paint - $6

Rough Cost = $733

Got the cruiser in and have started on building a new rear bumper. I'm ditching the stock swing out tire carrier in favor of a bumper mounted swing out to better support the weight of larger tires and the hi lift jack. I'm going to go with dual swing outs, spare and hi lift on passenger side, jerry can/cooler basket on drivers side. It will have recessed LED tail lights, weld through shackle mounts, and a 2" receiver hitch.


It's still in the early beginning stages and working out the kinks as I go, but wanted to post some pictures to get some opinions.

1st picture is the before. The 2nd and 3rd pictures show the bumper cut down to what I was going to use as the final width. Believe it or not, if you put a straight edge along the side of the body, the end of the bumper is even with the side of the body.


Questions:
  • Should I shorten the bumper up by about an inch of each end? It looks like it sticks out too far from the rear to me but I would loose some protection for the quarter panel.
  • If I leave it this length, I can either cut the top and bottom at and angle and cap like the picture shows (marked in soapstone), or I thought about running a piece of 2x2 forward toward the wheel well and bracing to the frame for a rear rock slider. Provide more protection and the 2x2 would match the front sliders and carry that line back.
Any thoughts, comments, or suggestions are welcomed. I'm still in the "tossing around ideas" phase of building.
IMG_0257.jpg
IMG_0269.jpg
IMG_0271.jpg
 
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CrowleyFJ40

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Nice tires :)
I'm absolutely no help whatsoever but great at heckling here.
I find that by running on the rims it allows me to save the tread on my M/Ts. :steer:

And you've already given a bunch of help and planning on this one. The more I think about it I'm leaning toward leaving it the full width and running sliders forward to protect those quarter panels.
 

CrowleyFJ40

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I was thinking nice jack stand block :p

Are you going to run fender flares? if not then make it even with the body.
Those are to catch the slag when I weld it up!

No fender flares. I toyed around with some ideas and talked with one of the mechanics at work that helped me build my sliders and we brainstormed up some ideas. I drew up this creation. This is as far as I got drawing it up tonight, but it shows the basics. Allows for body protction still while following the curves of the rear of the 40 better.

Overview
Overview.jpg

Rear View
RearView.jpg

Side View
SideView.jpg



I'm going to angle the front sides of the forward portions to match the angle of the wheel well like my sliders. Thoughts?
Overview.jpg
RearView.jpg
SideView.jpg
 

tornadoalleycruiser

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with the spindles that far in you need to insure you will not hit the body when opening the swingout. there will be a stub sticking past the spindle a bit. that's why i normally run the smaller part of the spindle on the top and the fixed part on the bottom.. or at least I just now thought of it and it makes sense. unless your welding it to the end and coping the square tube but you loose a tad of strength that way instead of drilling thru and capping it on the end.
 

CrowleyFJ40

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I'll do some measuring, but it didn't move the spindles in much. There is still room for the lights between the outer bumperette mounting holes and the spindle, so I don't think it moved it far. As for the peice of tube sticking out on the other side of spindle, I hadn't considered that, I was just going to drill out and weld it half way around the sleeve on the spindle, but thats something to think about, thanks.

The other thought was putting the spindles out on the angle and then doing the tube in the same angle to match the bumper, but I worry that will create a weak point.
 

kc_chevota

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I would french the reciver in to the bumper for a better departure angle. and maybe flip the cutaway on the forward part to better follow the fender
 

CrowleyFJ40

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Actually my original thought was to put the hitch in the bumper. It will require me to move the center mounting bolts out, but thats not a big deal.

Benefit is it pulls straight out when pulling from the hitch vs. the rotational force if it's on the bottom.

Downside, it's going to stick out 3.5" out the back of the bumper. I can't decide if that would be a big nuisance or not?
RecHitch.jpg

Here are a couple of shots of the angles I was thinking about doing on the side sliders to match the wheel well and also flow it into the body a little better.
angles.jpg
topangle.jpg
RecHitch.jpg
angles.jpg
topangle.jpg
 

CrowleyFJ40

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Here is the "final" drawing. The bumper will wrap around the outside of the quarter panels and extend up to the rear of the wheel wells. On the right side of the tire carrier are tabs for mounting the hi-lift jack, angled from right outside corner toward the center of the truck. Base of the jack will sit on the bottom peg and the top will be a bolt on the tire carrier to secure the jack down. Kind of hard to explain, hopefully you can visualize what I'm talking about. Basket on the left side will fit 3 gas cans or a cooler, inside of basket is 21"x14".

If you see anything that sticks out as a horrible mistake let me know.
RearView.jpg
LeftSide.jpg
RightSide.jpg
RearView.jpg
LeftSide.jpg
RightSide.jpg
 

JohnnyC

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i like it alot...good idea to move the reciever tube to the inside...looks cleaner.

i didnt see it metioned anywhere...but...were you planning on using the bumperets to give it a more stock/mod look...or...the clean/mod look with no bumperets?
 

CrowleyFJ40

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Thanks.

I'm not going to use the bumperets. Ditching the stock look for better protection/off-road utility. Also designed so I can move up to a 35" tire and it will still fit on the carrier.

I didn't draw in the de sta co latch, would take me forever, but here is the latching system I'm going to use. Stole the idea from Mark W in this post.



 
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Design looks great!!
On the rigs I run there isn’t much room between rear bumper and body of the rig. If there is enough room I’d suggest sliding your 2” receiver hitch forward and have the locking pin on the forward side, between bumper and body. Just an idea that I have been kicking around in my head.
 

CrowleyFJ40

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I'm sleeving the bumper with DOM at 8 points to use 1/2" bolts to hold to rear crossmember. It is going to space the bumper 1/2" off of the crossmemeber, so there won't be room for that, but if I had more space that would be a great idea. I think I'd rather have it tucked in closer to the body though.

I was worried about how far the tube will stick out (3.5"), but Weejub had a nice bumper on his rig that the hitch tube stuck out about 2", and it didn't seem like it would be an issue, so that relieved my worries there.

Design looks great!!
On the rigs I run there isn’t much room between rear bumper and body of the rig. If there is enough room I’d suggest sliding your 2” receiver hitch forward and have the locking pin on the forward side, between bumper and body. Just an idea that I have been kicking around in my head.
 

tornadoalleycruiser

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Cooler/storage rack is too low.. It will hang up and be a hinderance. Move it up at least a foot. possibly 18 inches.
 

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