Builds Fix'n up the Land Cruiser..... (2 Viewers)

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Sacramento,CA
 
These Nitto Exo Grapplers were made to compete with Duratrac’s. Both are a hybrid tire. The Nitto’s make less noise and are load range E. The 285 x 17r duratrac’s are load range D. For your purposes, the Exo Grapplers would serve well. It rains a lot here 9 months of the year and these tires do well.
Thank you. I was on the fence for a year now, your advice makes me more confident in the A/T purchase. The Exo will let me keep the stronger side wall I want as well.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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13k miles on a heavy truck. If you want full depth Siping your gonna have to pony up for Michilen’s like I did for my wife’s Hyundai. Actual wear is quite minimal.

I run the Super Swamper trXus in size 37 on my 80. These tires are sleepers. They are unbelievable on snow and ice, grip rocks very well and are quiet on the road for what they are.
 
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Sacramento,CA
 
Haha it's a 20 footer. I seriously wish I had a second one to Hail Mary with. I'm getting priced out of the market....
 
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Turns out it was just a tire from the back causing the death wobble. Re-rotated the tires and it drives just fine. Driver side hub pre-load is ok and all joints check out fine as well still.

Looks like a trip to the tire shop at sunrise!
 
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Ok all is great again! 4.5OZ on the culprit tire took care of it. Rotated back to the troublesome arrangement and no problems. Maybe tire rotations and a balance more often than 36+k miles at a time is a better idea lol.
 
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While the truck was down, I taught my son how to wire up the JL 12" subwoofer. Originally planned an 8" or 10" sealed box for a more compact solution, but I just did not want to regret not having enough bass.

So I ended up ordering a 12" ported sub/amp combo from JL Audio. This box sounds amaze balls. It will have enough wire length to stay where it is or move it behind the 3rd row if I want.

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JL's bass knob is very nice. It is compact and clean looking. I removed my alarm led, opened up the hole and mounted it here.

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I ended up having to cut and move my fridge slide to allow the sub to fit behind the 2nd row. Nice side affect is, my fridge slide fits in the truck like it should now. I can slide the fridge all the way out and open the lid completely now!! Woohoo!

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baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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That’s also a huge compressor on the interior. I don’t think I could pack for a big trip with a subwoofer and big compressor inside. Guess I’ll never have a subwoofer but my outback extreme compressor lives happily on the frame rail beneath the cargo area. The differences from one build to another can be dramatic but somehow we all get there and back.
 
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That’s also a huge compressor on the interior. I don’t think I could pack for a big trip with a subwoofer and big compressor inside. Guess I’ll never have a subwoofer but my outback extreme compressor lives happily on the frame rail beneath the cargo area. The differences from one build to another can be dramatic but somehow we all get there and back.
I summon Marie Kondo. :flipoff2:
 
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Updating the iPad mount. My last iPad was demolished, so it will be replaced with the new 8th Gen. I will use a new bracket and now a case for the tablet.

Lot's of positives from this: protective case (naked before), smaller profile for the mount when the iPad is removed and much easier to choose between portrait or landscape viewing with the new 2-part quick release.

RAM Mount: RAM-B-238-OT3U
Case: Otterbox iPad uniVERSE

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As you can see, it still leaves access to all controls and does not impede on the passenger area just like before.

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Last edited:
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Made a 10ft-8awg Anderson extension to have in the truck. I have finally decided to build some storage in the back after my son convinced me we do not need the 3rd row seat.

This allows me some flexibility on moving the fridge outside to make a full size sleep platform, move the subwoofer to different locations or power anything else needed.

I currently have two Anderson power supplies in the rear that are independent of eachother, available for any accessory I use.

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Joined
Jan 6, 2012
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Started replacing window motors. L/R I replaced a long time ago, as it got to aiding the window by hand. Now it is time to do the others. They work, but like they are vacation.

TWO things I ran into setting me back this time around, that did not happen on the last install.

1. Check polarity on the motor by hooking the window switch up and testing. I tested for operating but did not pay attention to correct up-down command. Sooo, I had to take the door panel off all over again and switch the pins at the motor side.

2. The Doorman motors also no longer have threads in the mounting holes. I spent at least 15 min trying to start a screw before I realized this issue. ( edit*** 😂 😂 apparently I already knew this years ago when I did the first one)

Tapped the holes in all the motors.

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Use a wedge to make sure the window does not fall when removing the motor. Also a towel to protect tint if you have some. You will need to move the window at times to access the screws.

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The only time a selfie cam is useful. Let's you see what you normally can't.

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Make sure you ziptie the harness, as it is longer than factory...

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Have a beer.
How do you like the Dorman motors?
 

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