First Time Pig "Build"
- Thread starter Delancy
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- #922
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- #923
Flush out the bores?
Not sure how RTV would react to plating. Unsure how the diaphragm react, without something sealing.
Lots of questions. Haha.
Gorilla tape is what my blaster uses, not sure exactly how you'd seal it off since you want all the metal bright for plating
Tucker
Probably why most are painted....
Wondering if a later version could be adapted, merely for the sake of being able to disassemble?
on the later carbs, the diaphram that is rebuildable is the vacuum secondary lift diaphram; I think the one you have in question is the throttle positioner diaphram- NOT certain> where on the carb was it and what linkage does it pull? The idea of the rtv would be to keep media from getting into the diaphram from around the plunger rod. dont know how well it would work- just an idea. maybe a later nicer diaphram assembly could be adapted to work the same but look better without need for plating...
not flush out the bores; flush IN their bores- seated fully...before peening or staking into place
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- #926
I believe your right on throttle positioning sensor, but will try to find the diagram I've misplaced to confirm.
Went here...
Better pic of same carb
Love to know how they plated that one. Guessing where there's a will theres a way.
I'm not going to dip it, that's for sure.
I understood the RTV thing and it made sense to me, but don't think the platers would dip it, not do I think they'll dip anything that could possible have unseen contaminants.
If RTV would hold up to the process, it sounds like a good idea to me, but especially for blasting.
Somehow someone has addressed this, I just need to dig deep in the Google Fu and find it.
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- #927
Gotcha.
Man, it threw me off, because I assumed (lacking tech term) that the hatch marks were either to maintain placement or location.
One fell right out, which I didn't think was right.
Wonder how that could affect operation on a bumpy road?
Will be searching for how to re-peen/stake soon.
once back in their bores, take a punch and lift some of the softer alloy material from around the venturi bowl on the carb body itself up and over the lip of the venturi. just like staking a nut, but done in 3 places and using the carb body material as the stake...hope that sense...hold punch at a diagonal and rap it with a hammer a couple times
hope that MADE sense- maybe you shouldn't be listening to me LOL
hope that MADE sense- maybe you shouldn't be listening to me LOL
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- #930
Side note:
Can laugh at me or with me, as long as you're laughing, the story is worth telling, but with an obvious point.
Bought the 1 gallon carb dip the Pinhead suggested which had a "handy dandy" (said in Pinhead voice) tray for small parts, his being metal, mine plastic.
When I checked the 24 hour status on the part above, had on gloves and used a hook to raise tray.
I am super conscious of caustic chemicals, which this is, but did not have on a full body suit, nor face mask, as I didn't anticipate the plastic handle breaking.
All falls in, sloshes crap everywhere, and a single drop hit my DS cheek. Put everything down, washed my face, went on about my day, not thinking anything else about, except needing a different tray for the small parts.
I can't say if it was the new puppy....
Or the pain that awoke at 3am (puppy ain't diggin' the kennel...at all) but holy crap, it felt like the burning tip of a Bic pen was held to my cheek.
No visible signs of a burn, not even a splotch, but was as intense a pain as welding flash is.
Anyhow, considering I've two more carb body parts, and the small parts to dip, will have to concoct a tray and impart better safety measures to ensure I don't blind myself.
Can laugh at me or with me, as long as you're laughing, the story is worth telling, but with an obvious point.
Bought the 1 gallon carb dip the Pinhead suggested which had a "handy dandy" (said in Pinhead voice) tray for small parts, his being metal, mine plastic.
When I checked the 24 hour status on the part above, had on gloves and used a hook to raise tray.
I am super conscious of caustic chemicals, which this is, but did not have on a full body suit, nor face mask, as I didn't anticipate the plastic handle breaking.
All falls in, sloshes crap everywhere, and a single drop hit my DS cheek. Put everything down, washed my face, went on about my day, not thinking anything else about, except needing a different tray for the small parts.
I can't say if it was the new puppy....
Or the pain that awoke at 3am (puppy ain't diggin' the kennel...at all) but holy crap, it felt like the burning tip of a Bic pen was held to my cheek.
No visible signs of a burn, not even a splotch, but was as intense a pain as welding flash is.
Anyhow, considering I've two more carb body parts, and the small parts to dip, will have to concoct a tray and impart better safety measures to ensure I don't blind myself.
I want to see the after photos.
Chris,
Are you planning on painting the main body of the carb. or leave it natural.
Are you planning on painting the main body of the carb. or leave it natural.
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- #934
Must've split on two pages.
The first to dip before....
After 48 hours....
Next pieces to swim are all substantially dirtier, so will be interesting to see results.
Not sure, Ron.
I'd like for it to remain natural. Thinking I can get it cleaned up better with a toothbrush, since the dip has loosened the gunk.
You think it should paint for any reason?
No, I'd prolly leave it natural, also. The only reason I asked is seeing that one painted was nice and the alum. ? body will turn dark again pretty quick.
I should of painted my transfer case and pto cases as they're turning dark and I haven't used them yet.
I should of painted my transfer case and pto cases as they're turning dark and I haven't used them yet.
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- #936
What do you know about clear coating, Ron?
I've seen several references to it on other builds, but know nothing about. Seemed their intent was to maintain the natural color and the coating allowed for easy cleaning.
I'm resolved to the 72 resto taking as long as it needs to take and before any mechanical begins, would like to clearly define the better means to maintain the natural parts in their natural state, or mimic with PC.
Considering ACC's PC prices are outstanding, plus they know the color it "should" be and how to prep, I'm not opposed, but would prefer the natural color maintained.
I should of painted my transfer case and pto cases as they're turning dark and I haven't used them yet.
Like this?
Not for the 72, by the way, but since you mentioned....
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- #937
AlbertoSD had been sending pics of his axle rebuild and pretty impressed with the acid bath treatment.
Before
After
No sand to deal with, no pitting, and it's ready to paint as it comes out of the bath.
Now, I don't know if steel only, or AL is possible, but seems a very viable alternative to prepping.
There's no one locally that does, but the shop he used on OH does car bodies, even, which would've been a great way to have exposed all that ails the 72, before beginning sheet metal work.
Before
After
No sand to deal with, no pitting, and it's ready to paint as it comes out of the bath.
Now, I don't know if steel only, or AL is possible, but seems a very viable alternative to prepping.
There's no one locally that does, but the shop he used on OH does car bodies, even, which would've been a great way to have exposed all that ails the 72, before beginning sheet metal work.
I have no experience in clear coating anything. Personally if I were to put something on it, it would have a pigment in it. Light grey, etc.
That axle housing is clean. I would think not good for Alum. That's in Ohio? Shame he's not closer, I'd like to dunk a body and see how it turns out.
That axle housing is clean. I would think not good for Alum. That's in Ohio? Shame he's not closer, I'd like to dunk a body and see how it turns out.
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- #940
Gotcha.
Man, I'm thinking that when the time comes to start worrying with coating, I'm going to utilize ACCs operation.
If PC is the best means to maintain coloration, then it only makes sense to send the cases and peripherals to them and not worry about plugging holes, masking, cleaning, or color choices with a local outfit.
Even with shipping, I think it'll still be more economical than a local, because the prices Micheal threw out, off the cuff, in a brief phone conversation, were very reasonable.
Pretty sure that's where James' parts are being coated, so hopefully he can fill in on costs and so forth.
I vaguely recall Britt saying that he utilized a company in Cahokia for either acid bathes or some other restorative treatment on high end builds.
If/when I ever get a reply from
will find out more about. I think it's a very viable alternative for bodies, as it would expose and remove all rust in one step.
Not sure if it'd be better to do before or after panel replacements, but if local, I'd do both.
If memory serves, Alberto said the housings were there for a week, but don't know if they sat in it for that long.