- Thread starter
- #161
Took about 12 minutes per cut.
Took longer to square up the log to make the first cut than anything else.
Firewood?
- Thread starter D'Animal
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Took about 12 minutes per cut.
Took longer to square up the log to make the first cut than anything else.
That crane is "cheating"!!!!!
Very true. Dealing with big logs and trying to load them into trucks, trailers, etc.... it's just too convenient to use the crane. Ours sure made loading some big ponderosa logs into a truck and trailer a non-event.
Dan
- Thread starter
- #164
Very rich colors
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- Thread starter
- #165
Back at it this morning.
Cut and split two loads in the Kubota.
Then finished this log and milled a smaller one.
Testing sharpening angles on the chain.
For size reference, that is a 36" bar on the STIHL MS 661.
Cut and split two loads in the Kubota.
Then finished this log and milled a smaller one.
Testing sharpening angles on the chain.
For size reference, that is a 36" bar on the STIHL MS 661.
Is it just me? Cutting oak with the grain is much harder on the operator and the equipment than across?
- Thread starter
- #168
You are correct. It depends on the sharpening angle. I have been playing around with the angles on this dry oak.
Right now I'm pretty happy with a 20 degree top plate angle and the rakers dropped .028".
Right now I'm pretty happy with a 20 degree top plate angle and the rakers dropped .028".
- Thread starter
- #169
Went back to this tree and worked on it a little more.
I cut 5-6 pickup truck loads before moving to a different tree.
The land owner may want the logs for lumber.
I cut 5-6 pickup truck loads before moving to a different tree.
The land owner may want the logs for lumber.
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- Thread starter
- #170
- Thread starter
- #171
Started on a few more trees today.
Both are leaning the wrong way.
Probably the brushiest oaks I've cut.
Have to establish an escape route when felling them.
Choices are very limited.
Cut a couple of pickup truck loads just cleaning up the downed limbs and skirting up the trees.
Both are leaning the wrong way.
Probably the brushiest oaks I've cut.
Have to establish an escape route when felling them.
Choices are very limited.
Cut a couple of pickup truck loads just cleaning up the downed limbs and skirting up the trees.
- Thread starter
- #172
This firewood tree wanted to fall into the rock pile. That would be a major PITA to get the firewood
Always go pre paired
The crevasse in the rock pile is begging the tree to fall in.
Always go pre paired
The crevasse in the rock pile is begging the tree to fall in.
- Thread starter
- #173
I'm a touch lazy and didn't feel like cutting firewood out of a rock pile.
I dropped it 90 degrees from rock pile.
Text book 2 cut face cut
Using Proper wedge placement and 6lb Collins I was able to jack the tree and drop it 90 degrees from where nature intended it to go.
For size reference, that is an MS 660 w 36" B&C.
I dropped it 90 degrees from rock pile.
Text book 2 cut face cut
Using Proper wedge placement and 6lb Collins I was able to jack the tree and drop it 90 degrees from where nature intended it to go.
For size reference, that is an MS 660 w 36" B&C.
- Thread starter
- #174
The leaning tree was as dangerous as it gets.
The tree is completely cut off at the bottom. The only thing holding it up is the limb from the other tree snagged in the top of it.
MS 440 w 25" B&C for size reference.
The tree is completely cut off at the bottom. The only thing holding it up is the limb from the other tree snagged in the top of it.
MS 440 w 25" B&C for size reference.
- Thread starter
- #175
My work zone I created during the 5 hours I was there.
- Thread starter
- #176
The first blue oak log was solid.
I couldn't help myself.
Blue Oak only grows in the foothills on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains.
Slabs are 1 1/2" thick and approximately 26" at the widest point.
I couldn't help myself.
Blue Oak only grows in the foothills on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains.
Slabs are 1 1/2" thick and approximately 26" at the widest point.
- Thread starter
- #177
Current firewood pile is double rows that are over 4' tall and 85' long.
I'm ready for the winter, bring it on!
Been out of touch with major wood cutting and burning for a bit but slowly getting back into it. My brother cuts quite a few cords every year and heats with an outside wood furnace and a small inside wood stove. I don't think he has used propane for several years. Heats the water and pipes it in and his home furnace blows through the heated coil.
I am renovating the home we grew up in which has an old Vermont Castings Defiant from the 1970's. The biggest one they made and it puts out a ton of heat. We have learned from the close to 40 years of using this stove how to heat it up and at what temps to burn it to keep the pipe and stove at its cleanest and most efficient. The stove pipe goes straight up an out from the stove to the ridge of the roof which is about 24' up. I cleaned, straightened and painted all the pipe a few weeks ago. Cleaned the stove up as well. All gaskets were good except the griddle gasket which I replaced with a new one. Inspected the inside by putting the digital camera in it an zooming up the pipe. Easy way to inspect it. It was very clean!
So I am getting back into heating mainly with wood. Worked in it a lot growing up but I am pretty 'green' (pun intended) at the moment. Retired from an office job a year ago so getting the muscles and back slowly into shape again for this sort of thing. Remembering this old stove and its characteristics. All comes back to you. She has a thermostat on the back that you can set and she does very well at closing herself off when she gets too hot. We set it to where it stays about 300 degrees on the stove pipe about 3' above the top of the stove.
The last photo is taken from the third floor loft looking down at the stove. It heats up this entire addition quite well with the use of a high speed ceiling fan.
I am renovating the home we grew up in which has an old Vermont Castings Defiant from the 1970's. The biggest one they made and it puts out a ton of heat. We have learned from the close to 40 years of using this stove how to heat it up and at what temps to burn it to keep the pipe and stove at its cleanest and most efficient. The stove pipe goes straight up an out from the stove to the ridge of the roof which is about 24' up. I cleaned, straightened and painted all the pipe a few weeks ago. Cleaned the stove up as well. All gaskets were good except the griddle gasket which I replaced with a new one. Inspected the inside by putting the digital camera in it an zooming up the pipe. Easy way to inspect it. It was very clean!
So I am getting back into heating mainly with wood. Worked in it a lot growing up but I am pretty 'green' (pun intended) at the moment. Retired from an office job a year ago so getting the muscles and back slowly into shape again for this sort of thing. Remembering this old stove and its characteristics. All comes back to you. She has a thermostat on the back that you can set and she does very well at closing herself off when she gets too hot. We set it to where it stays about 300 degrees on the stove pipe about 3' above the top of the stove.
The last photo is taken from the third floor loft looking down at the stove. It heats up this entire addition quite well with the use of a high speed ceiling fan.
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We are also fortunate to have a fellow with a sawmill down the road. We have a good bit of lumber from the farm to use on the renovations and also some from the neighbors. He cut a big oak timber for me to use to support a corner of the house where I took out an exterior wall for a kitchen expansion.
We had a big cherry tree fall on the farm and my brother cut most of it up for use in his wood furnace. I guess it was about 3' in diameter at the trunk and about 20' long. We had all the trunk milled up and curing it at the moment. Not sure what we will use it for. Maybe floors.
Had some local cedar and I am using that for window frames and exterior trim. Basically what we don't cut up as firewood we try to put into milled lumber if suitable. We have a lot of ash that is dying or dead due to the emerald ash borer coming through and taking pretty much every standing tree around. Great burning wood.
We had a big cherry tree fall on the farm and my brother cut most of it up for use in his wood furnace. I guess it was about 3' in diameter at the trunk and about 20' long. We had all the trunk milled up and curing it at the moment. Not sure what we will use it for. Maybe floors.
Had some local cedar and I am using that for window frames and exterior trim. Basically what we don't cut up as firewood we try to put into milled lumber if suitable. We have a lot of ash that is dying or dead due to the emerald ash borer coming through and taking pretty much every standing tree around. Great burning wood.
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