Firewood?

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Those safety devices between teeth are called rakers, and the chain rides on them in the wood. You have to start filing your rakers down when the tooth has been filed down about half way.

There are many different chain designs. Homeowner (safety) chains are designed for limited kickback and generally have double rakers.

Filing the rakers all the way down takes away what the chain rides on and makes the chain very "grabby". It'll cut better, but through the wrong avenue to get there. The aggressive and abrupt bite the teeth now get is hard on the internals of your engine and clutch.

Check out a semi chisel skip tooth chain for super speedy cutting. Full chisel is more aggressive but very fragile and difficult to sharpen. Touch dirt a bit and the chain needs sharpened. If you gotta pry to the saw into the wood with your dogs, your chain is dull and you'll wear out your bar from heat and smoke the clutch from having to pull too hard.


No, I didn't file the rakers down. I filed the safety devices. The yellow highlighted portion in the pic below.
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I've been enjoying cutting with sharp chains since getting one of these:

I also have a Oregon grinding wheel sharpener sitting in a box but may never need it as the 2 in 1 is so easy. If so it will get eBayed.
 
Started building a sawbuck today so I don't have to cut logs laying on the ground. Everything was designed in CAD, cut with a bandsaw, and welded up on my welding table. The "Y' will be the log holders, which will be welded to a horizontal piece of 2x3" square tubing, with adjustable-height legs at either end. This should handle a 24" diameter log up to 9'-4" in length. We'll set the logs on the sawbuck with the tractor prior to cutting.
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Nice project. Any concerns of it tipping over when the log is loaded on it?
The legs will be upside down Ts that are quite wide to prevent it from tipping over. I still need to pick up 2x3 square tube for the cross-bar and 2x2 tube for the legs.
 
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I 'd never seen or heard of it until I saw that video yesterday. I didn't know what he was doing at first.

You can split good sized chunks of wood with hatchet using that method.
You can also use a rock as a chopping block without damaging the edge.
 
Sawbuck is done! Legs are 2x2" tube, cross bar is 2x3" tube. Both 3/16" wall, mainly for rust resistance more than strength. The Y's are 1.5x1.5" 1/8" tube as I have a lot of it. All tube is capped/sealed. I designed the flanges that make it height-adjustable and had SendCutSend laser-cut them.
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Went and used the new grapple (which a great toy) to get a log out of the woods....
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....And success! Dropped the log right on the sawbuck with the grapple. Cut it within minutes. About 10X easier/safer than cutting on the ground.
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Sawbuck was a huge success. It was about 3X as fast as cutting logs on the ground, as we cut enough for winter '26/'27 in about 2 hours (Mrs. Rednexus ran the tractor while I cut). The MS 261 C-M was slow in some of the aged ~18" red and white oak logs but otherwise flew though the smaller stuff.

Not having to crouch/kneel/bend over hundreds of times, and being able to pick up the rounds from waist-high to move them also really reduced the amount of fatigue vs. last time we cut.
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How much wood do you burn in a season?
Only ~1 to 1.5 cords. It's not our main heat source but we have fires most every evening and all weekend when it's chilly out. We cut ~1.4 cords today but I'll verify actual volumes after we split and stack it (next weekend).
 
Had the grand kids here last week splitting wood and stacking. Load logs into the 8N bucket and drop them back at the splitter. A sawbuck is the way to go. I’d spent 45 years crouched over a log and a saw.
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