Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

[gregnash]

So I am planning on attempting to snake the smog pump out without removing the Power steering (even though I have going to replace it) so that I can prepare for redoing all the belts and gutting the smog pump.

I was looking on ToyotaPartsOverstock.com at the v-belts and they have a couple different version for each belt, among other confusing things when you click on an item at their site. I believe I have all three of the belts needed but funny thing was that each belt had a cheap version and a more expensive version and then a middle of the road version within each part number. Since there is no description as to what is different between them I am really confused. You can go super cheap and get all the belts for $50 shipped or expensive and pay over $100 shipped.

So has anyone ordered these belts from ToyotaPartsOverstock and are they OEM belts?! I tried calling the dealership but they were adiment in I only needed two belts (one was a serpentine).

 

[gregnash]

Belts

Ok I just got off the phone with my local dealership with a different person. He gave me the right part numbers for CURRENT parts

Alternator: 99343-11570-77 $40.07

Air/Smog Pump: 99343-11120-77 $32.50

Cooler Compressor: 99332-11250-78 $12.39

 

[gregnash]

So a couple of cool things that I have been meaning to post about BeBe.
1. I still have the original master key! Has the TEQ on it and everything (though quite rubbed/faded)

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

2. The guy I bought it from still had the original stereo that came with it! He said that he believed it worked but I didn't try it.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

3. While digging in the junk that was in the console I found a small pile of paperwork. Some of the original stuff actually. There is the "Toyota Care Pre-Delivery Checklist", receipt for the gas tank recall, two certificates for interior and exterior coatings, the original dealer manual and manual, and a receipt for a.... AFTERMARKET CRUISE CONTROL MODULE!! (hello mystery box)!

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

On top of that I found that the car was manufactured on 10/1/1985 with a delivery date of January 5, 1986 with 30 miles on it to a company out of Salt Lake City called BDS Medical Corp. Apparently, this was a company vehicle up until at least 1992 when the gas tank recall was done.

 

[gregnash]

However, I did find the first bad thing. While I was under the truck looking at where the speedo cable entered into the cab I noticed something out of the corner of my eye. Granted I knew there was a lot of grime and dirt under the truck, and it was fairly fresh but I saw no where that seemed to be leaking more than another and nothing was leaking more than a drop or two here and there a day.

Well I found where/why one section is leaking. This is the bottom of the tranny I believe. No Bueno!!!

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

So the question is, how are is this to fix (have to drill out the old bolt and then tap it I am assuming) and is it something I should attempt myself?

 

[gregnash]

On top of that here are the few areas of rust that will need to be replaced eventually. None have gone through the metal and while there is some scaling on the frame it is not bad.


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Hoping this weekend I can sneak the smog pump out and gut it and have the wife help me with the brakes.

When doing the smog pump, is there a special bearing grease that everyone uses/recommends?

 

[gregnash]

Ok new speedo cable is in and she works great!!! Was a bitch and had to go at it backwards and still cant get the stupid grommet back in but the speedo works is what I care about.

 

[orangefj45]

The speedo cable grommet is a pita. Use a right angle pick and install it from the top down.

Even with some practice the speedo cable replacement is still a 30-40 minute job by the time it's all said and done. And that's if everything goes right.

Georg

 

[gregnash]

The speedo cable grommet is a pita. Use a right angle pick and install it from the top down.

Even with some practice the speedo cable replacement is still a 30-40 minute job by the time it's all said and done. And that's if everything goes right.

Georg

Yeah kinda destroyed the grommet anyways so will probably need to pick up another one in the near future but for now it will do fine (once I get it back in place.)

The needle bounces slightly between 0 and 15ish mph, anyone know why this is?

Ran 3/4 a can of Seafoam through her, checked and cleaned all the plugs, ghetto taped a couple of cracked vacuum lines and replaced the headlights with the Rampage kit with the PIAA SuperWhites! Tried to bleed the brakes by myself with a small brake bleeder kit but didn't seem to help. I am going to have to get the wife or a friend/neighbor to help me next time. Got the new fluid through all lines starting at RR,LR,LF,RF (longest to shortest lines) but does seem to have done much of anything. Any other thoughts? I have another quart and a half of fluid so I can definitely bleed them again once the wife and I have some time to do it. Also replaced the air filter as the old one was cracked and there was plastic bits everywhere in the housing that I vacuumed out.

Got a lot done on here today and going to post up some pics of the plugs to see what you guys think. There was definitely a lot of carbon on them and I think I might have something else going on but will wait until I can upload the pics.

Oh and got here up to 70mph on the freeway this evening after taking her for a quick 4wd run up one of the local backcountry access roads!!

 

[orangefj45]

Sounds like you need to bench bleed the brake master.

Georg

 

[gregnash]

Yeah that is next on the list. Hate to take it off the brake booster again (and not to mention I dont have a vise). I see that Cardone makes a bench bleeder tool, might have to order it or see if I can't get my hands on a large bore syringe from my brother (he works at a hospital) and try to improvise and make one myself.

 

[gregnash]

Ok and here are pics of the plugs:
Cylinder 1

Cylinder 1 by renofizz, on Flickr

Cylinder 2

Cylinder 2 by renofizz, on Flickr

Cylinder 3

Cylinder 3 by renofizz, on Flickr

Cylinder 4

Cylinder 4 by renofizz, on Flickr

Cylinder 5

Cylinder 5 by renofizz, on Flickr

Cylinder 6

Cylinder 6 by renofizz, on Flickr

And wanted to make sure this is correct for the "golf tee fix"

Golf tee fix by renofizz, on Flickr

And here was the evenings reward while I was Seafoaming the carb.....

SeaGoaming by renofizz, on Flickr

 

[orangefj45]

Yeah that is next on the list. Hate to take it off the brake booster again (and not to mention I dont have a vise). I see that Cardone makes a bench bleeder tool, might have to order it or see if I can't get my hands on a large bore syringe from my brother (he works at a hospital) and try to improvise and make one myself.

Common misconception.........

You do not need to remove the master from the vehicle or booster to bench bleed it properly. Pm me your addy and I'll send you a freebie bleeder kit.

Hth

Georg @ valley hybrids

 

[gregnash]

Thanks Georg! Much appreciated.

 

[gregnash]

So funny thing happened this morning. After not getting much smoke yesterday after dumping almost 3/4 the bottle of Seafoam into the carb I didn't quite know what to make of it.

This morning I go out to warm the truck up (I work 4-10s and have mondays off) and get ready to take the dogs to the park. Well she has a harder time starting this morning than normal but then again it was only 38* at the time. So after a few minutes she finally starts with the choke about 1/2 way out. I let her run and go in the house. Now mind you my house was built in 1963 and the back of the house still has the s***ty single pane aluminum windows so you can hear everything outside as though the windows are open when they are not. So I hear the truck running for a bit and then suddenly notice that I dont hear her anymore?

So I go outside and she is bogging down so badly that the charge light for the battery is actually on!!! I was like WTF!!!! So I scramble in her, kill the choke and put my foot in the skinny pedal. After a minute she roars to life with a HUGE, THICK plume of grey smoke... LOL

Well I guess that was the Seafoam in the system finally getting out!!!!!

 

[sheepdawg]

run on when turned off.

You mentioned that your 60 dieseled when you turned it off. I get the same thing but I call it run on. I have tried various things but have come to the conclusion, our elevation doesn't seem to help and it happens in the summer more than winter. I have learned to live with it.

 

[sheepdawg]

run on when turned off.

You mentioned that your 60 dieseled when you turned it off. I get the same thing but I call it run on. I have tried various things but have come to the conclusion, our elevation doesn't seem to help and it happens in the summer more than winter. I have learned to live with it.

 

[orangefj45]

You mentioned that your 60 dieseled when you turned it off. I get the same thing but I call it run on. I have tried various things but have come to the conclusion, our elevation doesn't seem to help and it happens in the summer more than winter. I have learned to live with it.

That's usually caused by two things:

Timing could do with a little adjustment.

Idle too high.

Hth

Georg

Fwiw, timing is supposed to be set at 9degs to pass smog. But these engines are a lot "happier" at 14degs or more.

 

[gregnash]

I know that it is a common issue with these vehicles but there is something behind it. I will slowly go through each piece that I can and EVENTUALLY figure it out. Did the seafoaming yesterday and she does drive better.

Next will be replacing all the vacuum lines and doing the desmog.

 

[gregnash]

That's usually caused by two things:

Timing could do with a little adjustment.

Idle too high.

Hth

Georg

Fwiw, timing is supposed to be set at 9degs to pass smog. But these engines are a lot "happier" at 14degs or more.

Yeah that is going to be my next adventure, trying to set the timing. The plugs look a bit fouled to me so I think I am going to replace the plugs and wires and when I do take a look at the cap and rotor and replace those if necessary. At that time I will mess with the timing and the idle. Mine, I know, idles to high as that is how the owner set it because he was trying to compensate for the vacuum leak caused by the different cracked hoses.

 

[The Machinist]

Man, I've been away from Mud' for too long! Congrats on the new rig man!

Looks like your going to get to experience all the fun interior cleaning I did. (hopefully you wont have as many stains and gunk!)