Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

[gregnash]

Yeah actually the interior is in pretty good condition other than the front seats being done and the electrical nightmare awaiting me.

Right now I am focusing more on getting rid of the dieseling issue and a good consistent start. Some days she fires right up and others take a few minutes.

 

[orangefj45]

Get the tune-up parts from the dealer, don't go aftermarket. Fwiw, I stock those parts.

Hth

Georg

 

[gregnash]

Get the tune-up parts from the dealer, don't go aftermarket. Fwiw, I stock those parts.

Hth

Georg

Thanks for the advice Georg, I will hit you up when I am ready for that one. Going to get all the vacuum lines replaced first and get it desmogged. After that, then will be belts and tune-up kit. You got the belts as well?

 

[orangefj45]

Yup, I stock the oem belts for 60s and 62s as well.

Hth

Georg @ valley hybrids

 

[gregnash]

Yup, I stock the oem belts for 60s and 62s as well.

Hth

Georg @ valley hybrids

Sweet.. we are planning on heading to Carmel for Thanksgiving with the wife's family. Since we will be headed down earlier that week maybe I will try to arrange a "detour" by your shop to grab the tune-up kit and belts.

 

[gregnash]

Ok attempting to bleed the m/c and the lines seem stuck. Can't seem to get them to loosen without them starting to round. Damn why did them make them out of such soft metal!!


On top of that I think my fuel cutoff solenoid is done. This is it correct? And with the power turned on but not starting the vehicle I should disconnect and then when I reconnect it I should hear a click right?

 

[orangefj45]

Make sure you use a "flare nut wrench" not an open end wrench. If you don't have one, buy one. It'll come in handy.
To test the solenoid, leave it plugged in. Pop the hood. Stick your head in there and have somebody cycle the key to the run position without starting the engine. You'll hear the "click".

Hth

Georg @ valley hybrids

 

[gregnash]

Yeah right after taking the pic I said screw it and went and got some flare nut wrenches from NAPA. But apparently the nuts were so fused in there that I ended up rounding both off. Now wtf do I do? I figure I am going to have to get new hard lines but will I have to a new M/C because of this?

 

[shady]

Try using a small pipe wrench.

 

[orangefj45]

Vise grips.

 

[gregnash]

Ok figured as much. Actually don't have a pair of vise grip so I will have to grab some.

Wife and I went out for sushi with a good friend and his parent tonight. Decide to take BeBe and then on the way home decide to go for a ride. Took her a couple miles up into Ash Canyon Backcountry access road and had some fun giving her a little flex. Even saw a late night Mtn biker on the trails up there.

 

[gregnash]

Ok this is something that has been bugging me since I got the truck.
If the truck drives for more than say 20 minutes, when I shut it off I have always heard a weird bubbling coming from the engine bay. Finally got around to taking a video of it this weekend and it is definitely coming from the A/C Compressor.
Is the A/C Compressor on the way out? The A/C does blow cool when I turn it on but the idle up for the A/C is messed up so I get a pulsing from the idle up (revs 500rpms then drops then revs again, rinse repeat).

(ok can't get the video to post properly so here is the link) http://www.flickr.com/photos/gfisicaro/8045137210/

 

[orangefj45]

Pics didn't post.

 

[gregnash]

Pics didn't post.

Yeah cant get it to post because it is posting in FLASH (I hate flash) and have to download and change to another format to post on my Vimeo account. Link will take you to my Flickr and video plays fine on the site there.

 

[gregnash]

Oh and I am looking for part numbers for the two hardlines that come off of the brake m/c but can't seem to find them. Anyone have numbers for these?

 

[gregnash]

So looking through the Chassis-Body-84-90 manual I am trying to see if I can find a p/n for those hardlines that come off the brake m/c. On page BR-9 (pg245 according to my pdf) it shows two "brake tubes" with the numbers 155 (11, 15) next to them, are these supposed to be the part numbers for those lines? I am gonna get a pair of vise grips this weekend after I get paid so I can finally get these bitches working properly (unless it ends up being there are to many vacuum leaks and the booster is just not getting any vacuum) but the flare nuts are pretty much stripped and from what I remember reading, if you strip the nuts then you need to replace the lines.

So far the shopping list for this weekend will be:
- vacuum line for desmog (either from mcmaster or boostcontroller)
- JimC's desmog plugs and EGR block off plate
- odds and ends for brakes and other remaining items and miscellaneous tools

Unfortunately, the cruiser has taken some what of a back burner money wise as we are trying to refinance the house (damn adult things getting in the way of fun). Hopefully though I will be able to start spending money on her again in another month or so!

For now, I get to play with cheap things like cleaning up my grill and other plastic items and what nots.
Here is what the "TOYOTA" emblem looks like after spending two days sanding off the fat amounts of paint that one of the POs caked on her. This weekend I will take off the grill and work on that, guess I will be blacking her out after all.


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

 

[gregnash]

Oh and a quick sidebar question...

In JimC's desmog manual the two vacuum lines are listed as 3mm and 6mm ID lines, however I have read a few desmog threads where they substituted 5mm ID lines for the 6mm ID lines. Reason I am asking is that on boostcontroller.com it is like a $0.50 a foot price difference between the two. Needing ~15ft of the 6mm ID stuff that adds up.

So will substituting the 5mm ID for the 6mm ID line make a huge difference?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Oh and a quick sidebar question...

In JimC's desmog manual the two vacuum lines are listed as 3mm and 6mm ID lines, however I have read a few desmog threads where they substituted 5mm ID lines for the 6mm ID lines. Reason I am asking is that on boostcontroller.com it is like a $0.50 a foot price difference between the two. Needing ~15ft of the 6mm ID stuff that adds up.

So will substituting the 5mm ID for the 6mm ID line make a huge difference?

G, I used the 5mm from boostcontroller.com, I ordered 10' and had a couple feet to spare. Performance wise... 6mm vs 5mm.. non-detectable from what I have seen.

J

 

[gregnash]

G, I used the 5mm from boostcontroller.com, I ordered 10' and had a couple feet to spare. Performance wise... 6mm vs 5mm.. non-detectable from what I have seen.

J

Thanks J,
Yeah I was also wondering how many feet people seemed to use. Jim's document states 32ft and 12ft and I was rounding up but if you are running with a couple feet extra and still only ordered 10ft then that would save even more. Guess it really depends on how anal each person is about measuring and cutting properly.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Thanks J,
Yeah I was also wondering how many feet people seemed to use. Jim's document states 32ft and 12ft and I was rounding up but if you are running with a couple feet extra and still only ordered 10ft then that would save even more. Guess it really depends on how anal each person is about measuring and cutting properly.

I took the old off, measured, cut new, and re-installed one at a time.

J