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Joined
Oct 21, 2021
Threads
1
Messages
9
Location
Charleston, SC
Starting a Thread on my first LC restore. Love my Tacoma, but time to build what I call my run away machine. Time will tell if this was the correct platform.
Ultimate goal, Office space level exit from my business one day and hit the road. Only returning to bury those who have supported life goals or do work that actually changes lives.
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Anyone that has done a 60 series restore that has created a checklist willing to share would be great. I am attempting to determine what can be done DIY vs. use professionals. Time is more of a problem for me than ability or tool access.
 
If “hit the road” after retiring implies driving anywhere you want in this country or Canada or Mexico or all of them - as the FJ62 was intended - I’d be eyeballing a new or rebuilt engine and new or rebuilt transmission. Everything else could conceivably be a trail fix - or at least a camp fix.
 
If “hit the road” after retiring implies driving anywhere you want in this country or Canada or Mexico or all of them - as the FJ62 was intended - I’d be eyeballing a new or rebuilt engine and new or rebuilt transmission. Everything else could conceivably be a trail fix - or at least a camp fix.
I am thinking I would like to do the PanAmerican highway at least from USA border south. Not a retirement, but slowing down for a while. Any body that has done a complete mechanical overhaul on a 3fe have a fair budget estimate.
 
Not sure “restore“ accurately depicts this effort. Looks pristine
Yeah, has some lipstick. Clearly needs suspension kit, these shocks and springs are not going to make for a fun touring ride on rutted roads or deal with mountains roads even if I don't do much heavy 4x4 trails. I see everyone doing EMU Old Man full kits on these with 2" lift. What the post never say is what else should have been done while they were in there even if was functional at the time. (Front Drum to disk swaps, all joints, etc., brake lines)

I have read the first thing is newer headlights if you want to see more than 20 feet at night. I also read one post that there was a fluid issue that needed a bypass fix, but I can't seem to find where that was to see what they were referencing. Lots of miles, so I'm suspecting the mechanicals are going to need a lot of TLC$.
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ds all new suspension, I see everyone doing EMU Old Man full kits on these with 2" lift. What the post never say is what else should have been done while they were in there. (Front Drum to disk swaps, all joints, etc.) Lots of miles, so I'm suspecting the mechanicals are going to need a lot of TLC$.
 
If you want 100% full unnecessary confidence, here's everything I would do

All new suspension:
leaf springs
bushings
hanger
sway bar components
spring pads
shocks
tires
rear brakes complete refresh
lspv delete or replacement

front birfield repack
new front wheel bearings, trunion bearings
new disc and pads,
new calipers
all new rubber brake lines
tierod ends
reseal power steering box

new brakebooster
new mastercylinder

replace diff oil
replace transfer case oil
replace ATF


engine mechanical
engine oil seals
every single hose on the 3fe(radiator hoses, heater hoses, vacuum hoses)
all water cooling components (thermostat, outlet gaskets, oil cooler replacement)
egr delete
smog pump delete(plug air injection holes in head)
all new ignition components(wires, distributor cap, rotor, plugs)
new or serviced injectors
pcv, valve cover seals, sparkplug tube seals, etc etc etc
fuel filter and any rubber fuel lines
new charcoal can hoses or charcoal can delete


new air intake hoses
new starter(keep old as spare)
new alternator(keep old as spare)

acquire basically any spares you can of the electronics
throttle body sensors
water temp sensors
Air flow sensor
4wd Vacuum switching sensors
ECU



new powersteering hoses all around
repair powersteering pump if leaking
new ATF cooler hoses all around
new radiator
new belts
new fan
new fan clutch
new waterpump
new tensioners


replace ac compressor
replace condensor
replace all ac components (evaporator, expansion valve)

new heater core
rear heater delete

New exhaust pipes(looks like already done)
o2 sensor(s)

Obviously your budget will determine how much of that you can do. If you consider breaking down and fixing it part of the experience, I would just do the suspension and axle service. I doubt your cruiser will ever let you down.
 
Yeah, has some lipstick... Lots of miles, so I'm suspecting the mechanicals are going to need a lot of TLC$.
How many miles and do you have a record of what's been replaced/repaired already? No need to throw parts at it that aren't really needed. Compression test, oil analysis could be useful for assessing engine condition. Inspect brakes, u joints, etc. The springs don't look flat. Maybe front end has already been rebuilt. Any gear oil seeping from the axle seals?

More pics please. Nice looking 62.
 
How many miles and do you have a record of what's been replaced/repaired already? No need to throw parts at it that aren't really needed. Compression test, oil analysis could be useful for assessing engine condition. Inspect brakes, u joints, etc. The springs don't look flat. Maybe front end has already been rebuilt. Any gear oil seeping from the axle seals?

More pics please. Nice looking 62.
What he said, replace everything that is rubber if it's original or old. Drain all the fluids and send out a sample of your oil and ATF to Blackstone.
 
bypass issue is about transfer case fluid leaking into transmission. However, the bypass is not appropriate for the FJ62 if it still has the automatic transmission. The fluids in the two boxes are different and shouldn't be mixed. If the seal between the automatic transmission and transfer case is leaking, it needs to be fixed.

Depending how far away "one day" is, I would take your time. Daily drive the truck for a while (six months to 1 year?). Fix what breaks. Discover what you do and do not like about it. Then start to modify.
 
If you want 100% full unnecessary confidence, here's everything I would do



Obviously your budget will determine how much of that you can do. If you consider breaking down and fixing it part of the experience, I would just do the suspension and axle service. I doubt your cruiser will ever let you down.
Thank you exactly the check listed I was thinking could help me complete a inspection. Picking up tomorrow so more picks coming.
 
Don’t forget to also strip the frame bare, sandblast it, and have it hot dip galvanized.
 
Don’t forget to also strip the frame bare, sandblast it, and have it hot dip galvanized.
bout time you came around.....
 
Got her back to Charleston from Knoxville. Very satisfied with the condition, BAT Auction was a fair representation. Starting the need to address list, got dark before I could really crawl all over. 1. Idle at 2k when in park or neutral but correct when put in gear. 2. Knuckles need service, the front right worst, 3. LOF, Fluids, and regular services, 4. Diagnosis cause one window not working. 5.. Interior parts loose (speaker covers) good shape, but loose. Glad to finally actually be in the LC community beyond just shopping for a reasonable 60 series. 6. Immediately need to get my garage cleared out or a vehicle shelter for my office parking lot.

Any advice on the idle would be great. Read a couple of the other threads. None seem to be the same as my issue. Except maybe the stuck on idle up for A/c, since it was converted just before the auction. Just seems high even for a A/C idle up.

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Figured out that the idle issue is that the throttle bottle is not returning to fully closed when you left off the pedal. I can manually close it under the hood, I lubed the throttle cable but didn't solve. it gets better if I pull the pedal up. I will see if this is just lack of recent use, and adjustment, or a need of cleaning. Idle almost perfect when I manually close it under the hood.

Any experience with the same issue?

Also looking for best LED Headlight replacements. The stocks are tough to see at any safe distance. What are the best head lights?
Are they plug and go or need alter light? I saw some of the older ones made the high lamp light obsolete, but those were old post. I figure that had been remedy by now, but since the 62 is so much less than the 60 light post wanted to confirm.
 
Figured out that the idle issue is that the throttle bottle is not returning to fully closed when you left off the pedal...
TPS? Throttle position sensor. Do a search for that here on MUD re: FJ62.

Yeah, stock 62 headlights sure are dim bastards. A friend of mine recently bought some HID replacement headlights for his 62. They were quite expensive, I will ask him about brand. He was willing to pay a premium for street legal lights.
 
TPS? Throttle position sensor. Do a search for that here on MUD re: FJ62.

Yeah, stock 62 headlights sure are dim bastards. A friend of mine recently bought some HID replacement headlights for his 62. They were quite expensive, I will ask him about brand. He was willing to pay a premium for street legal lights.
I think the TPS is fine this appears to be a mechanical failure to close, need to clean it. I am thinking about the JW Speakers but didn't know if they were a pain to adjust the harness, they don't appear to be plug and play.
 
I think the TPS is fine this appears to be a mechanical failure to close, need to clean it. I am thinking about the JW Speakers but didn't know if they were a pain to adjust the harness, they don't appear to be plug and play.
Cruiser Corps is dedicated to selling Cruiser products only. You could be the first to review their LED's. :) High/Low Beam LED Headlights - 4PC SET - FJ62 8/1987 - 1990 - https://cruisercorps.com/collections/exterior-lights/products/high-low-beam-led-headlights-4pc-set-fj62-8-1987-1990
 

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