Build FatherSonSJ45 Troopy

[svsisu]

If you want to go a different direction with your tach, or an interim solution until you source the correct pulley/sort out the problem you could use a tiny tach

Diesel Tiny-Tach | Design Technology, Inc., Home of Tiny-Tach

Diesel Tiny-Tach. An hour-meter for diesel engines.

tinytach.com

The transducer clamps around the hard fuel line to the injectors. I use one on my 1Hz and it works well.

 

[FJBen]

If you want to go a different direction with your tach, or an interim solution until you source the correct pulley/sort out the problem you could use a tiny tach

Diesel Tiny-Tach | Design Technology, Inc., Home of Tiny-Tach

Diesel Tiny-Tach. An hour-meter for diesel engines.

tinytach.com

The transducer clamps around the hard fuel line to the injectors. I use one on my 1Hz and it works well.

X2. Had one on an Isuzu pup diesel and it worked good.

 

[Kmehr]

Did another boost leak test and was leaking at the crossover pipe, so put some sealant on that and will wait 24 hours before testing again.

Good news is that (to the extent I could spray it), there does not appear to be any boost leak from where the manifold meets the block.

This damn squeal man, can wait to put it in my rear view!

 

[Kmehr]

Everyone hold their breath and cross all your fingers, I took the heat shields off and three of the front four exhaust manifold bolts were very loose. Like maybe not even finger tight. 24 hours to set….

 

[clrussell]

Everyone hold their breath and cross all your fingers, I took the heat shields off and three of the front four exhaust manifold bolts were very loose. Like maybe not even finger tight. 24 hours to set….

You’ll want to use real gaskets here..

Hoping this is it. Which I bet it is. Drive pressure leaks are loud

 

[Kmehr]

You’ll want to use real gaskets here..

Hoping this is it. Which I bet it is. Drive pressure leaks are loud

I just tightened up the real gasket here hoping it’s just loose. I used sealant on the crossover tube though, so waiting on that to set.

 

[FJBen]

If you are still getting leaks on the manifold…either one, only use OEM gaskets.

Do you have original boots on your crossover pipe? Have you upgraded to t-bolt style clamps?
This is what I run on mine with new silicon boots. No leaks or pop offs.

The 12ht should be smoother, but my 13bt likes to loosen bolts, even torqued. My exhaust manifold has held for awhile now though.

 

[Kmehr]

I have upgraded boots from PPI and mostly using T-bar clamps. Once of the tricky parts of the 12HT intake tube is that the throttle plate to crossover tube is metal to metal and has a "hook" shape on the opposite end, so the turbo side literally pulls it away from the intake plate by design, which can't be great for seals.

 

[Kmehr]

Well some progress. I got everything buttoned back up and went for a test drive. The whistle is there, just as loud as before. I think my next move is going to be removing the exhaust pieces one by one and seeing if it’s some weird hole in the exhaust causing the whistle. This all started back when I redid the exhaust, and despite pressurizing my boost leak tester up to 25psi, I’ve never been able to replicate the noise just with air from the intake side…I mean it sounds like a whistle tip from the old viral video!

But, I did figure out the idle problem. It’s definitely my throttle cable. If I pull up on the accelerator, it goes down to normal speed (well actually too low now that I backed the idle screw all the way back now). Now I just need to figure out where it’s catching up.

My #1 injector is also leaking on top of the head. I loosened the nut all the way back and reseated it. Hopefully it was just a little loose from spill timing.

After re timing, the smoke is less. It’s not totally gone, but noticeably less. It runs really strong. I bet turning up the fuel will actually clean it up. I think I’m getting really close to have the motor dialed in.

 

[FJBen]

Well some progress. I got everything buttoned back up and went for a test drive. The whistle is there, just as loud as before. I think my next move is going to be removing the exhaust pieces one by one and seeing if it’s some weird hole in the exhaust causing the whistle. This all started back when I redid the exhaust, and despite pressurizing my boost leak tester up to 25psi, I’ve never been able to replicate the noise just with air from the intake side…I mean it sounds like a whistle tip from the old viral video!

But, I did figure out the idle problem. It’s definitely my throttle cable. If I pull up on the accelerator, it goes down to normal speed (well actually too low now that I backed the idle screw all the way back now). Now I just need to figure out where it’s catching up.

My #1 injector is also leaking on top of the head. I loosened the nut all the way back and reseated it. Hopefully it was just a little loose from spill timing.

After re timing, the smoke is less. It’s not totally gone, but noticeably less. It runs really strong. I bet turning up the fuel will actually clean it up. I think I’m getting really close to have the motor dialed in.

I just looked back and noticed you are running a straight “K&N” air filter. Im guessing the free flow exhaust is making the already loud noises from the K&N louder. If your new turbo is boosting more it's requiring more air, which those K&N can get really loud.

A quick fairly safe test would be to pull that K&N for just a quick drive around the block and see if you can replicate that screeching sound before pulling the exhaust all off. Next you could always try the muffler off with the filter on and see if the sound is there.


I figured it was the cable. You can just use the bolts right on the intake to slacken the cable and get your idle in the right spot.

 

[Kmehr]

I tried running without the filter, but it made no change. I've been looking at some Donaldson filters as a replacement to maybe try, but would like to try some more free stuff. I remembered I have a smoke tester that I'm going to hook to the tailpipe and see if I can't find some holes to weld up...

 

[FJBen]

I tried running without the filter, but it made no change. I've been looking at some Donaldson filters as a replacement to maybe try, but would like to try some more free stuff. I remembered I have a smoke tester that I'm going to hook to the tailpipe and see if I can't find some holes to weld up...

Sounds good, working back on the exhaust should help narrow it down.

 

[Kmehr]

It’s the damn muffler!

Hooked up my smoke machine, pulled the back half of the exhaust off and welded up a bunch of holes. Re installed. No change. Ran with just the front half. No whistle. Put the middle section on. No whistle. I’ll be damned. Good thing I only paid $75 for it!

Now the question is do I try a new muffler, or just throw a straight pipe section in where the muffler is and be glad I don’t have a whistle?!

Also mark today as the day I learned the hard lesson I already knew- START with the last change you make! I’ve been chasing my tail on this for months and I should have started here!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Loose the muffler. More Hp

 

[Kmehr]

The whistling exhaust saga is officially over! Welded in a straight pipe section where the muffler was and no more whistle. It’s loud, but it’s so much better than the whistle tip.

I think an airbox is in the not too distant future to try and muffle it a bit on the other end, but so glad to have this one taken care of.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

12HT loud is a symphony. Sit back and let the magic transpire!

 

[Kmehr]

Got the Gtrubo boost controller installed and man she flies! If I shift quick enough to not completely let boost fall, it’s amazingly clean. Seeing 19psi in second. Hard to really give it the beans in 3rd and 4th without going far too fast around town, but seeing 10-14psi pretty easily and hard to get more than 900*F.

It’s running so well and strong I’m really hesitant to mess with the fuel at all. Mark this as the day I said that and throw it back in my face when I change my mind and want more power!

Cause for celebration using the little Gturbo bonus:

 

[Kmehr]

Well partly because I can’t leave things alone and more because after the straight pipe I really can’t hear my kids from the back seat, I have started exhaust version 4.0. This is a lesson in you get what you pay for. My last whistle tip muffler was a Walker brand and was $75 or so. I just bought a Magnaflow that is about 6in longer and was $170. The difference in quality is laughable:

 

[Kmehr]

Exhaust version 4.0 is complete and is a winner! The magnaflow muffler gives a nice sound, but quiets things down significantly. The ultimate test, my wife confirmed. Most noise is now coming from in front of me, so that’s good. I wrapped the downpipe to about under the drivers seat, hoping to cool my feet down a bit. Have some dynamat dynaliner to add to the naked firewall too.



Bought some lizard skin to apply to the underside of my hood. Certainly more work than an underhood liner, but those mostly like trash in my opinion, and you can top coat the lizard skin, which I’m planning to do. Mostly just want to tamp down the steel drum effect of the hood. Might do the inside of the fenders too. Not naive to think I’m going to make it truly new car quiet, but the more comfortable I can make it, the more it’ll get driven!

Finally, took the rear Jerry can off. This looks factory to me, so before I go and build something to mount a spare tire, is there an OEM adapter I’m just unable to locate?

 

[Chamba]

I'm sure you can fabricate a wheel mount for that or perhaps fit a '74 and older tire mount to those mounts in the gerry can holder. But Toyota actually made a different rack for gerry can vs wheel. You can mount a spare tire to your hinges, but Toyota never made an adapter to mount the spare tire to the Gerry can holder that I've ever seen.

I've got the Magnaflow on my IROC and for the 43 and I'm impressed with the quality and the sound. Very nice!