Build FatherSonSJ45 Troopy

[Kmehr]

While I’m waiting for the throttle seal, I decided to check the timing today. As others have suggested, and explains my constant slight white smoke, my timing is retarded about 5 degrees. I’ve got 3 of 4 bolts on the injection pump loose, but dang that bottom inside bolt between the IP and the block, how the hell does anyone get that loose?! Any and all tips welcome!

 

[svsisu]

but dang that bottom inside bolt between the IP and the block, how the hell does anyone get that loose?!

5 kms of extensions, a wobble bit, a rear drive ratchet and a prayer. Good luck, this is a really cool build!

 

[FJBen]

While I’m waiting for the throttle seal, I decided to check the timing today. As others have suggested, and explains my constant slight white smoke, my timing is retarded about 5 degrees. I’ve got 3 of 4 bolts on the injection pump loose, but dang that bottom inside bolt between the IP and the block, how the hell does anyone get that loose?! Any and all tips welcome!

View attachment 4161382

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Yeah 5 degrees retarded, you will feel that difference on the engine when you put it back to stock 11btdc. Should be snappier for sure.

 

[Kmehr]

5 kms of extensions, a wobble bit, a rear drive ratchet and a prayer. Good luck, this is a really cool build!

This was the ticket, coming at the bolt from wayyy back behind the axle. Now to just get the IP to rotate and stay put while I tighten it down without three extra hands.

 

[FJBen]

This was the ticket, coming at the bolt from wayyy back behind the axle. Now to just get the IP to rotate and stay put while I tighten it down without three extra hands.

You should be able to leave the easy to get bolts somewhat tight so the pump has some resistance. Then when you time it you can easily adjust, then on final tighten do that back one that’s hard to reach.

That’s what I did.

 

[Kmehr]

After many many attempts, finally got the thing spill timed. Fingers crossed I got it right.

Also replaced my alternator belt with an OEM one. The current belt was starting to leave a trail of shredded black crap everywhere.

Gauge pod is all painted and ready to mount up. Should have time to get it wired tomorrow while I wait on the gaskets to arrive to hopefully fix my boost leak.

 

[Kmehr]

Got the throttle plate swapped out with the one from my spare motor anddddd it leaks boost from all around the base on both sides of the grid heater. I tried reusing the old metal gaskets first, then some brand new ones, and no change.

I also blew a hose clamp off the turbo at about 25 psi, so put some new T bar clamps on. So done with the s***ty old worm gear clamps.

I’m going to try using some sealant on the grid heater- going to give permatex optimum max torque (27036) a try. It seemed like the most appropriate for this situation. We shall see.

 

[FJBen]

Got the throttle plate swapped out with the one from my spare motor anddddd it leaks boost from all around the base on both sides of the grid heater. I tried reusing the old metal gaskets first, then some brand new ones, and no change.

I also blew a hose clamp off the turbo at about 25 psi, so put some new T bar clamps on. So done with the s***ty old worm gear clamps.

I’m going to try using some sealant on the grid heater- going to give permatex optimum max torque (27036) a try. It seemed like the most appropriate for this situation. We shall see.

View attachment 4165068

Do you have a machine shop near by? They can check evenness on the grid part at least and machine it flat if it’s way out.

It’s possible your intake manifold is out as well.

 

[Kmehr]

Do you have a machine shop near by? They can check evenness on the grid part at least and machine it flat if it’s way out.

It’s possible your intake manifold is out as well.

Yeah there are quite a few around, but it didn’t leak from those places before. Hopefully the sealant will do the trick. Going to let it keep setting up over night and give it a try tomorrow.

I was able to get the gauges all wired up and the pod installed. I can see a couple of issues already to address later- #1 the angle of the pod isn’t great and I can’t see the gauges faces completely. #2- the harnesses have a ton of extra wire that I coiled up in the pod. Totally fine for a clean look inside, but it’s a different story from the windshield!

 

[Kmehr]

Phewf. Bit of a disaster today. Got everything buttoned back up after another boost leak test showing that the throttle plate and grid heater are now sealed. Could hear air leaking still, but couldn’t find it, so went for a test run. The correct timing certainly feels peppier and les smoky, but didn’t get a lot of time to test it out. The idle is certainly much higher so I need to get that adjusted. It sounds like it’s idling at about 2,000 rpms.

The high pitched squeal- zero change. It’s still there. Damn it! I’m now wondering if the intake it self is leaking or is cracked somewhere. Uhg. The saga continues. My dad is in town for a few weeks so going to recruit him to drive while I crawl around and try to locate the noise a little better.

Still maxing out at 14psi very briefly (before I have to let off the throttle), so it’s certainly not short on power.

Pulled into my garage and turned the key. Acted like it wanted to stop, but kept running. Then pouring smoke. Jumped out to try and pinch the fuel line shut and that didn’t work, then a big pop and a cloud of exhaust dust blasted out of the exhaust, then more smoke. Was able to get a plastic bag over the iair filter and finally choke it stopped. Good lord the smoke.

It would appear I need to swap diaphrams from my original throttle plate over as this one isn’t fully shutting off. Or at least I sure hope that’s what the issue is!

 

[Kmehr]

Here’s a shot of the soot mess. My booger and snot already have some of this crap in them. I guess the landcruiser and I are now one…

 

[Kmehr]

Did some tinkering this afternoon. Adjusted the throttle plate and backed the idle screw all the way back so now it will shut off with the key again. Phew.

Unfortunately, my idle won’t come down. The new tach I have doesn’t appear to be very accurate (reading off the alternator) and will have me revving over 5k rpms sometimes, which can’t be accurate.

I’ve got the screw backed all the way out and even when warm, it’s still sounds like it’s filing at 1,500+. Guess I need to redo the stupid timing again.

I tried running a short distance with no air filter too, thinking maybe it’s responsible for my whistle noise, but no luck. It’s so immediately tied to the throttle input, it’s so curious.

 

[FJBen]

Did some tinkering this afternoon. Adjusted the throttle plate and backed the idle screw all the way back so now it will shut off with the key again. Phew.

Unfortunately, my idle won’t come down. The new tach I have doesn’t appear to be very accurate (reading off the alternator) and will have me revving over 5k rpms sometimes, which can’t be accurate.

I’ve got the screw backed all the way out and even when warm, it’s still sounds like it’s filing at 1,500+. Guess I need to redo the stupid timing again.

I tried running a short distance with no air filter too, thinking maybe it’s responsible for my whistle noise, but no luck. It’s so immediately tied to the throttle input, it’s so curious.

In the future, just move the shutoff butterfly by hand on the intake and it will starve of air and shut it off.

How high is it idling? Also, the idle screw on the 13BT does nothing...it doesn't even reach to affect the idle. Changing timing can affect the idle, but if you timed it correctly, you have something else off that someone changed to raise the idle.

On your accelerator cable, You should be able to adjust the slack/tension on it to raise/lower the idle. I'm guessing it was adjusted before with the timing retarded.
Do you have a throttle adjuster in the cab? Thats how I adjust the idle on mine, I always tweak it a little, every start.

 

[FJBen]

Here is the manual fuel shutoff on the injection pump. Pull/push this (I can’t remember ) and it shuts the engine off.

Here’s where you can adjust the accelerator cable to loosen it up if it’s pulling up the idle.

 

[Kmehr]

In the future, just move the shutoff butterfly by hand on the intake and it will starve of air and shut it off.

How high is it idling? Also, the idle screw on the 13BT does nothing...it doesn't even reach to affect the idle. Changing timing can affect the idle, but if you timed it correctly, you have something else off that someone changed to raise the idle.

On your accelerator cable, You should be able to adjust the slack/tension on it to raise/lower the idle. I'm guessing it was adjusted before with the timing retarded.
Do you have a throttle adjuster in the cab? Thats how I adjust the idle on mine, I always tweak it a little, every start.

I tried pinching the plate closed, but it didn’t work! I think the stop screw was too far out and it wasn’t closing all the way and with the higher idle it was just pumping too much fuel or something? Good to know about that cutoff though,

I’m not sure exactly where it’s idling because the tach I just installed doesn’t seem accurate at all. My guess is it’s at 1,500-1700 based on sound. It’s a little higher than the cold start idle.

I hadn’t really thought about my throttle cable needing to be readjusted from when I installed it. No adjustment in the cab, but it’s easy enough to check. I’m really starting to think the intake manifold is leaking boost (it’s about the only place left to check!) so I can recheck the timing again. Hell, now that I’ve done it once, it’s really not that hard since I’ve got a system down now.

I’ve still yet to adjust the valves, but I’d like to not change anything else while I’m still working through some of this stuff.

 

[FJBen]

I tried pinching the plate closed, but it didn’t work! I think the stop screw was too far out and it wasn’t closing all the way and with the higher idle it was just pumping too much fuel or something? Good to know about that cutoff though,

I’m not sure exactly where it’s idling because the tach I just installed doesn’t seem accurate at all. My guess is it’s at 1,500-1700 based on sound. It’s a little higher than the cold start idle.

I hadn’t really thought about my throttle cable needing to be readjusted from when I installed it. No adjustment in the cab, but it’s easy enough to check. I’m really starting to think the intake manifold is leaking boost (it’s about the only place left to check!) so I can recheck the timing again. Hell, now that I’ve done it once, it’s really not that hard since I’ve got a system down now.

I’ve still yet to adjust the valves, but I’d like to not change anything else while I’m still working through some of this stuff.

I’d definitely start with the accelerator cable adjustment since it’s easy. Loosen it up to get some slack in it to make sure it’s fully able to move.

Then I would check the timing again, but I’m guessing you should be good.

Check intake manifold bolt torque and then all boost clamps.

 

[pb4ugo]

You may know this. Getting a proper rpm reading using the alternator requires the alternator pulley to be the correct diameter for your diesel.

 

[Kmehr]

You may know this. Getting a proper rpm reading using the alternator requires the alternator pulley to be the correct diameter for your diesel.

I never really thought it wouldn’t be, but damn I sold my original since it was 24v. I’ll have to see if I can find the OEM specs. I’d love to run a pickup from the OEM location on the bellhousing, but waiting to see what others figure out there.

 

[pb4ugo]

I have a 6.5td and uses the alt for the tach. A lot of folks will replace the alt and don't realize the diesel pulley is a special diameter because of the tach and the replacement alt is usually for multiple applications. My 6.5td uses a 62mm pulley because of the tach and needs to be swapped to the new alt. Idk, if there's different ones for yours. Just throwing it out there.

 

[Kmehr]

I have a 6.5td and uses the alt for the tach. A lot of folks will replace the alt and don't realize the diesel pulley is a special diameter because of the tach and the replacement alt is usually for multiple applications. My 6.5td uses a 62mm pulley because of the tach and needs to be swapped to the new alt. Idk, if there's different ones for yours. Just throwing it out there.

Certainly could be, the alt I got I’m pretty sure had multiple applications. Looking at a pulley calculator and the relationship between two different size at different rpm levels makes that seem likely as the difference between the relative speed increases with rpms. I need to figure out how to program it. The instructions are very lacking.