FAIL - Oil pump idler bushing removal

[jbpace]

Decided to try and follow the bjowett post https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/58626-fzj80-oil-pump-drive-gear-bearing-removal.html and make a tool to remove the unobtainium oil pump idler bearing.


I made the body from a galvanized 1.25" to 1" reducer coupling capped with a 1" plug drilled to accept the bolt (absolutely the perfect size):

I'd found a washer just the right diameter, backed it up with a slightly smaller one for support, but obviously (in hindsight ) didn't get enough support:

Since I didn't check progress until I'd given it a few good turns, I've now destroyed the bushing:

SOOOOOO - how do I get it out now? find a grade 5 (or 8) washer the right size? have something machined? pray I wake up and this was all a dream?

Suggestions?

JP

 

[Michael Hanson]

Why not get round stock the diameter you need,cut off about 1/4 inch, drill hole in middle and retry. MIke

 

[landtank]

the problem is that the casting on the inside is not round. It has a flat side to it so the washers need to be in a "D"shape not completely round. And destroying the bushing is not the end of the world any more.

 

[2 E L O]

Following the link in landtank's signature and looking around a bit nets you this little gem:

1FZ-FE Oil Pump Bushing. | AJIK Overland Exchange

 

[jbpace]

Following the link in landtank's signature and looking around a bit nets you this little gem:

1FZ-FE Oil Pump Bushing. | AJIK Overland Exchange

First thing I did after mucking the bushing was order the AJIK replacement. I wouldn't have tried (or tried so carelessly) to remove it if I didn't know the backup was available. AJIK has already sent me the shipment tracking number - I may have the replacement before I get the old one out!!

I don't have a lathe, so I'm limited to the washer method. Any suggestions (or tool loan offers ) for getting this one out?

JP

 

[Kernal]

What type of bronze are the bushings made of?

 

[landtank]

my bushings are out of Navel Brass with a 40% zinc content.

 

[Pin_Head]

I hope it is Naval brass. Navels contain 40% lint.

 

[gotmud]

I hope it is Naval brass. Navels contain 40% lint.

LMAO!

 

[landtank]

LOL, my eyes are so bad it took me 5 times reading that to see the spelling difference.

 

[jbpace]

Third time was the charm

It came out without further damage on the third attempt (second attempt with hardened washers stripped the threads of the original 5/16" bolt). For anyone doing this in the future, here's what I found to work from the nearby Lowes:

(1) 1/2" x 4.5" carriage bolt
(1) 1/2" hex nut
(3) 7/16" grade 5 washers (Hillman #880115)
(1) 1.25" to 1" galvanized reducer coupling
(1) 1" galvanized plug with a 1/2" hole drilled through it​

The carriage bolt spun, so I had to secure it with Vice Grips (the head - while it was still accessible - then the shaft), but it pulled smoothly and the whole bearing slid safely into the reducing coupler.

The AJIK bearing arrived today. Looks beautiful. Thanks for getting in the business of making those, landtank!!

Good luck to anyone having to do this.

JP

 

[Sc0-]

I performed the operation using LandTank's remove/install tool, not a problem and probably took 5 minutes to include installing the new bushing. (have to make sure the oiling holes line up)

 

[jbpace]

I performed the operation using LandTank's remove/install tool

I haven't thought about installing the new bearing yet. Does landtank sell the tool you mention? Didn't see it when I bought the bearing...

JP

 

[landtank]

I had a tool made up and have let a couple people use it. It's not something I had planned on loaning out on a regular basis.

 

[jbpace]

I had a tool made up and have let a couple people use it. It's not something I had planned on loaning out on a regular basis.

Rick, is there a thread describing what you made? I've searched the threads you've started but must not be using the right term(s).

Thanks,
Jon