???Factory Roof Rack Delete Directions Needed !!!!! (1 Viewer)

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80 series mod fellas !
Maybe it’s vanity...but going to go full platform roof rack and as low profile possible does it make sense to delete the factory rack ? IF it is done can someone please point me to directions on the proper way to do it ? I’ve tried to search the forum on this but with no luck. If it’s better/smarter to leave the factory and just get taller gutter mounts I guess someone just needs to tell me that as well. I will submit to prudent advice !

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My experience has been the feet are easy to remove and clean up around. The ribs typically leave alot of residual from the double faced tape used underneath.

There have been stories of at least one or two that didn't have or the vehicle side wasn't peeled away. Never my luck though, all being said ease mostly depends on condItion etc.

I have seen many leave the ribs installed underneath when a full rack has been used.

Good luck, soon to do another myself, the rackless look is worth it, imo!
 
Wits’ End sells a kit if you are going to remove and put a rack over the holes.
I don’t have any links, but I remember hearing people have problems with the nuts stripping out.
 
You shouldn't have any trouble, but the nuts on the underside of the roof may not hold when you try to remove the bolts. If that's the case, you'll have to pull the headliner down to hold them while you remove the screws. If it was mine, that's what I'd do anyway; I do not think much of cutting the bolts off at the roof and then having to drill new holes for a new roof rack mount, or two, or four.
 
I have no fashion sense, is the general consensus that 80s look better without the anemic factory rack?
 
The roof racks were technically not "factory", they were installed at the Port of Entry (?? maybe some dealerships also) before they got to the dealers IIRC from previous threads. They all apparently left the factory in Japan with clean roofs.

Holes were drilled into the sheet metal and nutserts were put in the holes for the screws that hold the roof rack pieces down. Same for the rear dust/wind deflectors. These nutsert holes can be rust magnets, worse in the rust belt and near the Ocean IME, but seems it can happen anywhere except maybe the always dry Southwest.

I have 80's with the port installed roof rack and without (never installed at the port/dealer). I really don't notice either day-to-day unless it's called to my attention, then I prefer the clean roof look, FWIW.

The main advantage IMO of not having the port installed roof rack (or removing what's already there) is not having to worry about rust developing around the nutserts in the sheet metal which can/will happen even in the South.

Here's a couple of links with photos for those who haven't seen what can happen under the roof rack:


 
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The roof racks were technically not "factory", they were installed at the Port of Entry (?? maybe some dealerships also) before they got to the dealers IIRC from previous threads. Holes were drilled into the sheet metal and nutserts were put in the holes for the screws that hold the roof rack pieces down. Same for the rear dust/wind deflectors. These nutsert holes can be rust magnets, worse in the rust belt and near the Ocean IME, but seems it can happen anywhere except maybe the always dry Southwest.

I have 80's with the port installed roof rack and without (never had it installed at the port/dealer). I really don't notice either day-to-day unless it's called to my attention, then I prefer the clean roof look.

The main advantage however IMO of not having the port installed roof rack (or removing what's already there) is not having to worry about rust around the nutsert holes which can/will happen even in the South.
Purely out of curiousity and conversation sake; The port installed rack, once the truck is/was delivered to said port, I imagine they would have to take down the headliner and all to install the rack? I guess so, but what headache for the ports based on the options.
 
Not the expert. IIRC from previous discussions they just drilled holes in the sheet metal and pushed the nutserts in, which is the problem. It's my understanding that Toyota, if they wanted the vehicle to have a roof rack, would have done something like weld nuts inside the sheet metal before the body was painted or some other type of fixture where the integrity of the sheet metal/protective coatings would not be compromised. If we look at newer models the roof rack slides or is clipped into a long groove or sunken rail in the roof all done at the factory. No holes in the sheet metal.
 
I’ve worked on the removal of several roof racks. Here’s my two posts on how to do. No need to weld or remove head liner.

 
To get the adhesive tape off that is under the ribs I used a "adhesive eraser wheel" and a cordless drill. 3M and others make them. One wheel of whatever knockoff brand I used did my roof and I used the leftover to zip the pin striping off the sides. If you have nice paint you may want to go with the 3M one. You may still need to polish the paint after your done though.
 
Not the expert. IIRC from previous discussions they just drilled holes in the sheet metal and pushed the nutserts in, which is the problem. It's my understanding that Toyota, if they wanted the vehicle to have a roof rack, would have done something like weld nuts inside the sheet metal before the body was painted or some other type of fixture where the integrity of the sheet metal/protective coatings would not be compromised. If we look at newer models the roof rack slides or is clipped into a long groove or sunken rail in the roof all done at the factory. No holes in the sheet metal.
My roof rack was installed with sheetmetal screws that pulled are warped the skin. I had to drop my headliner to hammer the skin flat.
 
I’ve worked on the removal of several roof racks. Here’s my two posts on how to do. No need to weld or remove head liner.


I would recommend this method, very nice.
I went the cheap and dirty way and used a sealing washer and a screw on the nutserts which were still good. The ones which were spinning or rusty, they got removed and new ones put in with the same nutserts and washers. The roof was bedlined after just coz.
If you are going to add nutserts I would recommend adding some red loctite to the nutsert - a trick I saw on project binky.
 
Exact same truck ('97 LX450 and color combination).
Same scenario. One month ago. Cheap dealer installed roof rack.
Spinning bolts/nuts on two of the roof rack mounts.
Chose to remove the headliner to access the spinning bolts.
Removed the roof rack.
Then had to deal with rust.
Had it professionally sanded, rust corrected, primed, and re-painted so the fix would be long-term
Removed gutter guard (at least what was left of it)
Rust there, too.
Entire top now ready for new gutter mount roof rack.

Ps. Also removed the fender flares to identify/address/correct any rust. Was lucky: Rust only the right rear rocker panel.

Setting up this truck for US tour/overlanding when we vacation and/or retire.
 
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Wow. Search is hard.
 

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