Wait, didn't that relay come out with the rest of the harness?
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Factory Alarm Removal
- Thread starter PKP80
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- Thread starter
- #22
Yes I did remove that harness with the relay in it originally in the earlier picture. The second picture with the harness reattached is as I try to reverse engineer the process and figure out the missing link and KEY wire. No luck so far.
Seems like BLKPRJ80 maybe able to help out the most b/c his description of what he had in his truck is the same as what is in mine.
OK, got it. I have to wonder because that relay usually disables the starter and not the ignition system. It seems like your starter is working OK so maybe a problem was introduced "while you were in there"?
Can you tell where the alarm was getting its constant 12 volts? Perhaps the EFI circuit? Have you checked for 12v on the EFI fuse?
(Just wondering because I've seen an installer do this)
Can you tell where the alarm was getting its constant 12 volts? Perhaps the EFI circuit? Have you checked for 12v on the EFI fuse?
(Just wondering because I've seen an installer do this)
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I read through numerous threads regarding removal just a few days ago. Remembered reading this one: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/307424-rth-pulled-factory-alarm-now-truck-wont-fire.html
He had the same problem as you: crank, but no start. Ended up jumping the circuit, and it worked, and traced the problem to a blown fuse. Might want to take a look. Good luck.
-Eddie
He had the same problem as you: crank, but no start. Ended up jumping the circuit, and it worked, and traced the problem to a blown fuse. Might want to take a look. Good luck.
-Eddie
If you removed the relay harness and reconnected the two original white factory connectors, you should be good to go. Sounds like you've smoked a fuse or fusible link, as others have suggested.
Mine was not like yours. They actually cut wires in the factory harness rather than inserting a plug to plug harness like yours.
From Post #1:
This was the relay harness that was removed between the lic above it which shows it reconnected.
WTF does this mean? What is a lic? Other posts have similar errors that make it hard to understand your point and more difficult to offer help.
Mine was not like yours. They actually cut wires in the factory harness rather than inserting a plug to plug harness like yours.
From Post #1:
This was the relay harness that was removed between the lic above it which shows it reconnected.
WTF does this mean? What is a lic? Other posts have similar errors that make it hard to understand your point and more difficult to offer help.
- Thread starter
- #26
Sammi, That's were my RS3000 is located, although I moved it there myself. Yours could have gotten moved from the typical location under the driver's seat when you had all the work done on your truck a few years back. Also, it's been a while so my memory isn't fresh, but that looks like an RS3000 control unit.
The relay you removed interrupts the starter relay circuit, so that the starter won't engage if the alarm is triggered. Since you can crank over the engine this tells me you've correctly got the starter circuit restored to its original state.
Since you can crank the engine but it won't fire, then (like others have said) it's either a spark or fuel problem. Why not follow the Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures posted here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...ighlight=emergency+troubleshooting+procedures. One obvious thing to check: does the MIL light come on when the key is in the "on" position? If not then you're not getting power to the ECU or there's some other problem that is keeping the ECU from going to the ready state. Check ECU-related fuses and fusible links. Another easy test if the MIL lamp isn't lit: use a multimeter and see if you have +12v at the the "+B" test point in the under hood diagnostic connector (ignition switch must be on). +12v indicates the EFI main relay is energized. If no then it's likely a fuse or broken wire or bad contact in a junction block.
Keep us posted on your progress.
- Thread starter
- #28
UPDATE:
MIL/CEL light comes on in accessory mode (ignition to on position), I have 12V power and have checked all fuses. thus far. I am going to go through the engine bay and make sure everything is grounded and connected correctly. Any other thoughts are always appreciated.
OK, then I'll make an educated guess that the fuel pump isn't running. The wiring for the pump runs through the ID2 connector in the DS kick panel, and that's one of the connectors you likely messed with when removing the alarm. The fuel pump wire is red with a black tracer and connects to pin #13 of ID2. It's straightforward to test my fuel pump theory. Here's a post from another thread I made...
The picture I referred to is here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98084&stc=1&d=1161120484
So either do the test or go back and check the wires leading into and out of ID2.
Edit: ID2 is a short but wide 22 pin connector (2 rows of contacts, with 10 contacts in one row and 12 on the second row). Even if you didn't unplug this particular connector check the wires into it anyway since you messed with nearby connectors and maybe something got pulled on too hard.
The picture I referred to is here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98084&stc=1&d=1161120484
So either do the test or go back and check the wires leading into and out of ID2.
Edit: ID2 is a short but wide 22 pin connector (2 rows of contacts, with 10 contacts in one row and 12 on the second row). Even if you didn't unplug this particular connector check the wires into it anyway since you messed with nearby connectors and maybe something got pulled on too hard.
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- Thread starter
- #30
Thank you Tom, stay posted.
- Thread starter
- #31
Tested the Fuel Pump while the site was getting this much needed face lift and it seems to be working fine. Could the problem stem from a single bad Spark Plug? Plugs 2 and 3 have spark last I checked. Why do I have this feeling that it's something REAL amateur and I'm just not catching it? If anyone is in the LA/Encino area and thinks they can help resolve the matter, plenty of BEERS will be provided.
Check for fuel pressure at the Fuel Pressure Regulator at the front of the injector rail, up behind the distributor. There's a vacuum line and a return hose back to the fuel tank (I presume) connected to it. Run the engine, stop it, and loosen the nut for the regulator a turn or two, a washer will lift off an O-ring, and fuel should spray out (wrap a rag around it). Do this outside. Outside, Okay? If no fuel sprays out, suspect fuel delivery. Filter, pump, regulator bypassing everything, or who knows.
If fuel does spray out, wipe up and discard as much as you can, wait forever for it to evaporate off, and then make double sure you have it all snugged back down. Then you're going after injector related stuff since you have spark you said.
Oh, and don't burn your house or truck down. Keep a fire extinguisher or three handy any time you have fuel exposed. Please.
Good Luck Sammi!
If fuel does spray out, wipe up and discard as much as you can, wait forever for it to evaporate off, and then make double sure you have it all snugged back down. Then you're going after injector related stuff since you have spark you said.
Oh, and don't burn your house or truck down. Keep a fire extinguisher or three handy any time you have fuel exposed. Please.
Good Luck Sammi!
One bad spark plug won't keep your motor from running. If you're getting fuel delivery and spark, then it should start. I guess if you have a Scan Gauge or other OBD-II code reader you could see if any codes have been thrown, but otherwise I'm running out of ideas. Did you use a multimeter to verify you're getting 12v at the +B terminal of the underhood diagnostic connector when the ignition key is on? And double check that all fuses are good, and if you have a spare fusible link, swap it in for good measure. With all that you've said, it really sounds like it should start right up. Without being there in person it's hard to say if you're missing something obvious.
- Thread starter
- #34
UPDATE:
- OBD II free and clear of any codes
- Fuel delivery is Confirmed (thanks blkprJ80 for the warnings as that does spray out)
- All fuses are good I've checked at least 4 times
- Getting 12V at the B+ terminal
Next plan of action: I am going to recheck all the T-plugin connectors that the dealership installed in order to plug in the alarm, maybe that kind of splice damaged/weakened the original wire connections? Attempt to reconnect the alarm system correctly (contacted my dealership that installed it, crazy part is their accessories guy who did the initial install 18 years ago is still working there, super nice guy).
I am quite certain that this is an electrical issue having to do with what I disconnected in the alarm and my smart a** didn't take a photo of the setup before I removed it (ALWAYS DOCUMENT THE UNDOING SO YOU CAN REDO IT) I have taken pics with everything else! I need to order a fusible link to try and swap it out and see if that is it.
Thanks for the continued help, post up if anything else comes to mind or if you are in the LA area and can assist!
Sammi
- OBD II free and clear of any codes
- Fuel delivery is Confirmed (thanks blkprJ80 for the warnings as that does spray out)
- All fuses are good I've checked at least 4 times
- Getting 12V at the B+ terminal
Next plan of action: I am going to recheck all the T-plugin connectors that the dealership installed in order to plug in the alarm, maybe that kind of splice damaged/weakened the original wire connections? Attempt to reconnect the alarm system correctly (contacted my dealership that installed it, crazy part is their accessories guy who did the initial install 18 years ago is still working there, super nice guy).
I am quite certain that this is an electrical issue having to do with what I disconnected in the alarm and my smart a** didn't take a photo of the setup before I removed it (ALWAYS DOCUMENT THE UNDOING SO YOU CAN REDO IT) I have taken pics with everything else! I need to order a fusible link to try and swap it out and see if that is it.
Thanks for the continued help, post up if anything else comes to mind or if you are in the LA area and can assist!
Sammi
Sammy, I've stared at the electrical wiring diagram a long time and can't see how anything you did in the DS kick panel or under the DS dash could be causing the no-start situation you describe. At least as documented in the EWD, we've covered all the bases as to possible problems. All the checks you've done verify systems are operational. Either there's something that's not documented in the EWD at play, or... or this can't be happening. I confess I'm out of ideas just now.
- Thread starter
- #36
Thank you Tom I appreciate your effort with this.
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- #37
NEW INFO...The Shift lever is locked in place. Will not shift out of Park. This is in addition to the previous issue of the truck not wanting to start. IH8CarAlarmSystems !
There is a release button in front of the shift lever down an oval hole that may still have the cap on it, you could use a screw driver to push it in/down to see if that releases the shifter.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/real-time-help-stuck-in-p.395688/#post-5664950
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/shift-lock-inop.569513/#post-7419382
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/real-time-help-stuck-in-p.395688/#post-5664950
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/shift-lock-inop.569513/#post-7419382
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The shift lever lock is controlled by a "shift lock ECU", and several of the needed control signals for this ECU run through the same ID2 connector we discussed earlier in this thread. So this is another indication that something is wrong with the wiring into, out of, or around ID2 in the DS kick panel. Or that power is not getting to the shift lock ECU.
Question: Do the brake lights come on when you step on the brake pedal? The same signal is used by the shift lock ECU.
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- #40
Had a quick second tonight...both brake lights and turn signals do not work. Going to try and go at it again tonight when I get back home